Another Electrical Question
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Vienna, VA
Another Electrical Question
Ok, I am confused as can be. Here is the current issue.
It seems my ignition is hot all the time, even when the ignition switch is off all of my dash lights are lit as if the key is in the 'run' position. Turn the key on, and lights turn off, starts normal, runs fine. However, turn on the headlights and all dashlights shut off and lose the tach. Generator has tested fine, new voltage regulator, don't seem to have a damaged wire anywhere that I can find. When I shut off the truck, the battery will drain out in about 5-10 minutes. I have tested the battery, and have bench charged it. Holds power fine, truck is just sucking the juice out somewhere. Any ideas? I am completely lost at this point.
Jason
It seems my ignition is hot all the time, even when the ignition switch is off all of my dash lights are lit as if the key is in the 'run' position. Turn the key on, and lights turn off, starts normal, runs fine. However, turn on the headlights and all dashlights shut off and lose the tach. Generator has tested fine, new voltage regulator, don't seem to have a damaged wire anywhere that I can find. When I shut off the truck, the battery will drain out in about 5-10 minutes. I have tested the battery, and have bench charged it. Holds power fine, truck is just sucking the juice out somewhere. Any ideas? I am completely lost at this point.
Jason
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: willamette valley ore
I think your evaluation that the I/S is "hot" all of the time indicates one of two things. Either the switch has gone south internally or there are wires that have been connected to the wrong terminals. Get a schematic of your truck and check to make sure everything is connected where it should be. If the problem just cropped up, then I would say the switch is suspect. Steve
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From: Vienna, VA
I appologize for not adding more earlier. I was firing it out there pretty quick and should have added in what I have eliminated. So far the switch was my first thought, I have tested the old one, and actually replaced it, no change. I have a current schematic, and have tried to trace the wires for both the ignition system and the lighting system. It looks like someone in the past has replaced some wiring and a few of the colors don't quite match up so it's getting difficult.
What I cannot figure out is, where is the common link between the ignition switch, lighting, and dash panel? I cannot tell by the schematic, I am just not highly educated in that rhelm. Other than at the battery, is there a common connection between them? Even a ground that might be off that I'm missing? Now on Saturday, I did find a ground attatched to the frame that is not connected on the other end. However it is only long enough to attatch to the starter, yet the schematic only shows the starter connecting to ground via the case. Is that right?
Thanks,
Jason
"When neck deep in ****, don't duck...."
What I cannot figure out is, where is the common link between the ignition switch, lighting, and dash panel? I cannot tell by the schematic, I am just not highly educated in that rhelm. Other than at the battery, is there a common connection between them? Even a ground that might be off that I'm missing? Now on Saturday, I did find a ground attatched to the frame that is not connected on the other end. However it is only long enough to attatch to the starter, yet the schematic only shows the starter connecting to ground via the case. Is that right?
Thanks,
Jason
"When neck deep in ****, don't duck...."
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: willamette valley ore
Jay, I took the liberty of checking out your profile and I assume that we are talking about your totally stock 1963 F100. Attached is the wiring diagram for the 1964 F100, which (as far as I know) is virtually the same. The schematic is for six and eight. Hope this helps. Any time someone has replaced wire, it makes the diagnosis of electrical trouble just that much more difficult. Hang in there. Steve
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From: willamette valley ore
Well, the schematic did not come out very clearly. Here is the link that will get you to the web page and it is very large and clear there. Also I noticed that this schematic is not specific to the F100 but the basics are the same. Steve / 1964_03.gif
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
Gif 5 is the one that ties the light and fuse block into the picture. 1964 F100 - F750 Wiring Diagrams - The Old Car Manual Project
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From: Cherry Valley
Oil and amp lights come on with the ign switch. could a wire from one of these be crossed with the instrument panel lighting circuit?
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From: Vienna, VA
Ok, thanks for the help folks. I was able to find a broken ground from the tach, however now is a new problem. If I turn on my headlights, then turn on my blinker, my entire lighting system blinks. I opened the dash, and whatever monkey restored the truck in the past, cut, spliced, and taped the connections. Anyone know where I can find a premade dashboard wiring harness? Or is it going to be easier and cheaper to just find one from a yard?
This is rediculous.
Jason
1963 F-100 2wd 292
"When neck deep in sh**, don't duck!"
This is rediculous.
Jason
1963 F-100 2wd 292
"When neck deep in sh**, don't duck!"
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 27
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From: Madison, WI
Jay 3403
There are two web sites I have looked at that sell wiring hardness. Looks like nice stuff but at a cost.
www.ezwiring.com
www.painlesswiring.com
Hope this helps
Steve
There are two web sites I have looked at that sell wiring hardness. Looks like nice stuff but at a cost.
www.ezwiring.com
www.painlesswiring.com
Hope this helps
Steve
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Vienna, VA
Oh yeah, it's defiantely time to do some serioius re-wiring... I was working to sort out the short, and the dash caught fire right in front of me. Thank you to the old guy that owned the truck before. He put in a fire extinguisher right in the cab. Then again, if he was the one that did the wiring before, I want to slap him at the same time.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 289
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From: Raleigh, NC
One of the best ways to troubleshoot wiring problems is the process of elimination. The bulkhead or firewall connectors will isolate a major part of the factory harness. A multimeter is another great investment that can tell you if you have current (juice) flowing from the battery as elements of the system are reconnected. One of my most bizarre current drains was in a crown vic with a shorted defrost switch. 20 amp continuous drains will kill a battery over night...
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Vienna, VA
HA!!! I WIN!!!! Jay 1, truck... well.... about 100... But I'm' workin on it!
Thanks for the help folks, I do appreciate the insight on everything sofar. Outside of body work, I now only need to rebuild the differential.
Jay
1963 F-100/2wd/292
"When neck deep in shi*, don't duck!"
Thanks for the help folks, I do appreciate the insight on everything sofar. Outside of body work, I now only need to rebuild the differential.
Jay
1963 F-100/2wd/292
"When neck deep in shi*, don't duck!"
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 73
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From: Vienna, VA
Ok, just to put it out there in case someone else has the same issue as I did.. The problem i was having with my truck actually ended up way to simple an answer for what I was looking for. The dash lights were simply a bad ground, easy fix once realized, and the generator light stayin on without the key was the aftermarket amp meter. Whoever wired it in, wired it to the hot on the starter silanoid instead of the negative. Apparently the amp meter has been shorted out for a while, making it harder to notice, yet was still back feeding power into the system through the voltage regulator. Once the wire was switched to the negative feed, all symptoms have gone away.
Again, thanks for the insight on everything folks. I do appreciate it, y'all are an invaluable resource.
Jay
1963 F-100 2wd/292
'When neck deep in shi*, don't duck!'
Again, thanks for the insight on everything folks. I do appreciate it, y'all are an invaluable resource.
Jay
1963 F-100 2wd/292
'When neck deep in shi*, don't duck!'
