I have a 1985 F-150 with a 300. I was changing the speedomeeter gear in my 3-speed and accidently pulled the output shaft out about 1/4 inch. I did not know it would put out. I got it back together but now I can not get the transmission out of second. R and 1st move and I can get them in neutral but I can't get it out of 2d. Any ideas what might have happened? I plan to take the top off today and look into the transmission.

 

Three on a tree? or a floor shifter?

If you had a column mounted shifter ... and 3 speed trans ... I'd say you *might* have bad shifter linkage bushings.

BUT ... since the failure occurred after you moved your output shaft ... I think you'll find you pulled one of the synchronizers apart and the dislocated locking bits have locked it into second gear.

If that's the case I know of no way you can repair it without taking the trans out and apart.

The good news is ... its likely you haven't broken anything! You just have to take it apart, re-assemble the synchro and put it all back together.

Maybe now is the time to update to a jy 4 or 5 speed?

 

It's been over 30 years since I even messed with a standard trans, but being able to pull the output shaft out doesn't sound right to me. I know on the old 3 speed I had to rebuild too often, short of dropping off a high building, there was nothing you could do to mess one up when it was put together.
Is that why you were changing the speedo gear maybe? Or were you just changing tooth count?

 

Ok, took it apart and it was the first syncro that came apart. I have 15 roller bearing and three flat things, plus two c wire type spring clips. I tried to take the trans apart but the front c-shape shifter sits on a shaft and I'm not sure how to get the shaft out. The rear shaft comes out but I think the front shaft has a cap that needs to be drilled out before the shaft can be removed. Does this sound right? Also, how does the synco and bearings go back together?

 

Not that I would know- but I think you need to be more specific about what trans you have.

 

The trans came out of a 1985 F-150. It has an aluminum tailpiece. Is 24 inches from front to tail, has RAD on a metal tab, two shift levers on the side and a 9 bolt top. What else?

 

Actually you have a bit more than that ... you also have 2 brass synchros, an outer slider ring thing, and an inner bit that all the above fit on.

The "three flat things" fit in the three machined slots on the "inner thing" ...

The two wire clips should have a bent sort of hook in one end. ... these go into either face of the "inner thing" and the "three flat things" ... they provide spring pressure and push outward on the "three flat things". The bent sort of hook in the wire fits into the underneath of one (it normally doesn't matter which) of the "three flat things.

The slider thing thing fits over all the rest and keep the "three flat things" from flying out.

The brass synchro's fit into either face of this assembly.

... the shifter rails fit into this outside slider thing and makes it slide back and forth over the inner bit ...

You'll have to check with somebody else about a pressed fit locking collar ... I don't remember having to drill through and crack anything to get these things apart ... normally you should be able to drive all this apart with a hammer and drift.

These things are VERY simple ... it really does go together as I described. But with proper nomenclature. Think of a Chinese Puzzle ...

the best part is ... once you've done ONE manual transmission ... you should be able to do most all of them.

Normally I would go and look up all the proper nomenclature and procedure for you.

However, I have not one, but TWO horrible ear infections .... that I've been fighting for about a week. I am WWwwwaaaayyyyyyy outta gas ......

I'm going back to bed.

 

Oh yeah ... the 15 roller bearings.

IF (and a big old "if"!!!) you got ALL of them (!!!!!)

Clean them and dry them.


look into the backend of the forward shaft (I think) you see a hollow spot that the nose of the of the output shaft fits into.

Clean out this hole ... and make it clean and dry.

Get about ONE finger full of CLEAN axle grease ... and put a coating on the circumference of the hole with the grease ... this will act as a temporary adhesive ...

now install the 15 roller bearings inside the hole about the circumference ... the grease will hold them in place ...

then slide the nose of the rear shaft in.

That should do it.


I'm going back to bed.

 

Oddshot, thanks. I think I understand. I can't do much until I get the gear slider out. I can't get the outer ring off because of a gear that is below the main set of gears. Hopefully, some one will respond. I also checked it is a RAT DL not a RAD. I hope you get to feeling better.

 

When you install them they should be close enough together that you couldn't possibly put one more in. If you have room for one more, -you'd better find it.
Here's a couple of links that may help a little:http://www.raceabilene.com/kelly/hot...ns/f3spexp.gif.

Ford 3-speed Top-Loader Transmission Rebuild.
I realize these aren't probably your exact trans, (especially the 50's model in the bottom link), but you may get some help from them.

 

Ford Type 3.03 3 Speed Manual all Syncromesh Transmission.

This transmission was introduced in 1963 and was used in F Series trucks, Bronco's, Econolines and passenger cars.

Prior to 1963, Ford used several different 3 speed transmissions, none have a first gear syncro.

Most of the internal parts are the same 1963/86, so replacement parts are EZ to find at autoparts stores.

The three flat things are the inserts for the syncro hubs. 1st/Reverse syncro takes a different type (C3AZ7A044-B), than 2nd/3rd syncro (C3AZ7A044-A).

There are three brass syncro blocker rings. ONE on the 1st/reverse syncro (C4AZ7107-D), TWO on 2nd/3rd syncro (C4AZ7107-C).

The 15 needle bearings (C3AZ7118A, come in a pkg of 15) are used on the input shaft.

There are 50 more needle bearings (C3AZ7121A, two pkgs of 25 each) on the counter shaft, 25 in front, 25 at the rear.

It'a a good idea while the trans is apart to replace all of the following parts:

Front/rear seals, gaskets (all come in one package), the three brass syncro blocker rings/inserts/snap rings, all other snap rings and washers (all come in one package), front (C3AZ7025C) & rear (C3AZ7025B) ball bearings, 15 needle bearings on the input shaft, 50 needle bearings on the counter shaft.

The brass syncro blocker rings are notorious for wearing down. When this occurs, the trans pops out of gear.

 

Thanks for the replies. I got a replacement transmission this morning, spent 3 hours of time waiting for them to pull it, take it home, clean it, only to find out that the syncro for 1st/REV was missing 1/3 of its teeth. When I took the top off there was a chuck stuck on the magnet. It shifted fine. So, that was a waste. This afternoon I went and put a down payment on another tranny. I will pick it up tomorrow and see if I can get it in over the next few days. Meanwhile, I will look to repair the one I have myself. Does any one know how to remove the shifter fork rod for the front fork? I can get the rear fork and rod out but not the front.

 

I'm back. I found a SROD 3-speed with overdrive and was going to try to put that in my truck but the transmission mount was not in the same place. It was about three inches shorter than my current mount. I even found a shifter for it. Are there other 4 speeds that are a direct replacement for my RAT 3-speed trans? Thanks.

 

Can the 3 speed handle a 460 ?????

 

I believe the 3-speed will work with a 460 if the original had a 3-speed. This is my second Ford with a 3-speed. My first was a 71 with a 302 and this one is a 300. I don't know if they made a beefed up 3-speed for the 460. If you have a 4-speed, the 3-speed will not fit. The cross member mount is located in a different place with the 4-speed, closer to the engine for some reason.