shaking while braking
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From: Pinellas Park, FL
shaking while braking
I am pretty sure it needs new front rotors, but just want confirmation from you guys. Real bad shake thru the steering wheel when I brake. Started doing it a lot more after a long trip we just went on. The pads look fine and the truck only has 35k on it, but rotors are cheap enough if this will fix it. I am not the original owner so I am not sure if they have been turned. Also can I just use the NAPA rotors ($55/ea). I know after I had my rotors turned on my F150 - it shook real bad. But traded it on this. Thanks for advice/other possible solutions, Mike. ps - I have to pull the fornt end to replace leaking seals, so rotors will get done while its apart.
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Have the rotors' thicknesses measured then turned if they're still within spec. If they're too thin, then new rotors would be needed. I had better luck with non-oem rotors. In either case, new brake pads would be required.
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I'd guess you can have the rotors turned, although it's gotten to where new ones are almost as cheap.
My trusted independent shop will not use anything other than OEM pads. He has not had very good luck with aftermarket.
Same goes for the spark plugs...
My trusted independent shop will not use anything other than OEM pads. He has not had very good luck with aftermarket.
Same goes for the spark plugs...
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Started doing it a lot more after a long trip we just went on.
This is a key indication of a rotor failure, because the rotors got progressively worse. But could also be wheel bearings. Especially since you say you have a leaking seal. Replace and repack the wheel bearings at the same time!
This is a key indication of a rotor failure, because the rotors got progressively worse. But could also be wheel bearings. Especially since you say you have a leaking seal. Replace and repack the wheel bearings at the same time!
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Personally, I do not turn rotors. Rotors are nothing more than a heat sink. The mass of the rotor absorbs and dissipates heat. Removing material compromises this feature. In addition, most shops brake lathes are questionable at best, as are many of the operators. You can easily end up wasting time and money on turning rotors. New ones are cheap, brakes are nothing to mess with.
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From: Pinellas Park, FL
Update - thx for the replies. I changed the front rotors and pads today. Shaking is gone. I ended up going to napa and getting ceramics ($95) and rotors were $55/ea. I was going to get their more expensive rotors, but he talked me out of it. only 35k in miles and I still had to use a small sledge hammer and PBblaster to pop them off. Also I put the pads on and put the clip on the outside like it was and it sounded like when you used to put a card in your wheel on your bike. So I pulled the wheels back off and did not see a purpose for those clips, so I pulled them off. One of you guys please chime in if they are necessary and I will have a real "wrench" look at it. Thanks, Mike
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Close....Pads will not stick to the rotor. The clips are known as anti rattle clips. As the pads wear there will be more and more air gap and without the clips you will hear the pads rattle in the calipers.
It is not something that will cause the rotors to warp.
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From: Pinellas Park, FL
thanks guys - I'll keep the extra parts in my tool box for now because i can not get them to fit back on without hitting the wheel (the rotors did not look wider, but the pads definitely are). my mechanic did say i was not supposed to push the piston back in with a c-clamp with the reservoir lid off. he said that can ruin the abs brake booster. But so far, so good. Just glad the wobble is gone. Now i can wait to get my 1-wheel drive expedition changed back in to a 3-wheel drive when he gets freed up. could have used the front axle a couple times in North Carolina where we went. Thanks, Mike. (still not understanding why a 4wd vehicle does not at least have a lsd in the rear - oh well)
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mtondreo - mind me asking how much you are paying to have your mechanic do it? My 06 EB is probably due for some new rotors as well as it has been progressively shaking when the brakes are applied at high speeds (>60 MPH).
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You will not damage anything by pushing the piston back into the caliper using a clamp. I would like to know your mechanic managed to fit new pads if he didn't push the caliper piston back in?
If you do not have the lsd in back, and you get the "4wd" working again, you will only be up to 2wd, one in front and one in back. Better yet, it is the one in front and the one in back with the least traction that will get the torque :-(
If you do not have the lsd in back, and you get the "4wd" working again, you will only be up to 2wd, one in front and one in back. Better yet, it is the one in front and the one in back with the least traction that will get the torque :-(
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From: Greenwood Indiana
do not turn rotors on these trucks, even if they are new! lol, spend the money on a good set of rotors, and with your mileage they shouldnt be such a bear to remove but for the future do yourself a favor and smear some anti-seize around any surface the rotor touches the wheel hub, this will help out the next time as well, fellow expy onwers will know what I mean, I had to use a 3 jaw 4 ton puller to remove mine.
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From: Pinellas Park, FL
soundtransmission - My mechanic has been slammed so I did it myself. I am waiting on him to replace seals in my front axle. I did not get a price on him doing the rotors because I was going to have him do it when it was apart. I just could not stand the wobble anymore. So apologies not sure what it would have cost. Thanks, Mike.