EBPV in Denver CO
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
EBPV in Denver CO
So how long is this supposed to be activated? my sister decided she wanted to go rent some movies... So... I said okay. We took my truck...
It is 20º and it sat all day... Still had snow on it... Let the glow plugs warm it up for about 30 seconds, and it started up just fine...
While i brush the snow and scrape the ice it is running (5 minutes)... So off we go... the whole way there the EBPV is on unless I am WOT, same with the way back... (5 mile trip)
Do you think I am safe just unplugging it right now? the truck will always sit out in the driveway so it will always be cold, and on occasion it gets below 10 degrees here... At the cabin i have seen -30 before...
Just curious if I should unplug it, and if it seems to be working correctly.
It is 20º and it sat all day... Still had snow on it... Let the glow plugs warm it up for about 30 seconds, and it started up just fine...
While i brush the snow and scrape the ice it is running (5 minutes)... So off we go... the whole way there the EBPV is on unless I am WOT, same with the way back... (5 mile trip)
Do you think I am safe just unplugging it right now? the truck will always sit out in the driveway so it will always be cold, and on occasion it gets below 10 degrees here... At the cabin i have seen -30 before...
Just curious if I should unplug it, and if it seems to be working correctly.
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
I really dont want to wire it so that it works everytime I hit the brake... I think I can just put 12Vs to one side, and then the other side ground it with a switch in the truck. That way I have a on swithc to warm it up in the mornings when its cold, and then an exhaust brake when I got the trailer on...
How do you guys wire yours up?
How do you guys wire yours up?
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You don't need to have it wired up so it works all the time...... What I have done is take 12v to a toggle switch on the dash, run that thru a normally open relay to the EBPV. Wire the coil on the relay in with the IVS (idle validation switch) so when the pedal is released it energizes the coil closing the contacts on the relay bringing on the brake. Touch the pedal and it goes off.
If you have the switch on the dash off no power goes to the EBPV regardless of wether the relay is energized or not. Same with morning warm up turn the switch on and the EBPV closes until you touch the acc pedal or turn the switch off. I think you'll find you will use the Ex brake all the time even w/out the trailer..... I know I do
If you have the switch on the dash off no power goes to the EBPV regardless of wether the relay is energized or not. Same with morning warm up turn the switch on and the EBPV closes until you touch the acc pedal or turn the switch off. I think you'll find you will use the Ex brake all the time even w/out the trailer..... I know I do
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I believe it's the gray with pink tracer??? Will have to double check. Would be a good idea to cut both wires and run a good ground to the other wire, just to isolate it from the PCM.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Petaluma, CA
don't put 12 volts to it, there should only be 8 to the actuator from what I remember. I did the brake mod, and I love it for going down Monarch or Kenosha pass, really does help save the brakes.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Denver CO
Matt I have mine on a switch the one with the pink stripe you put 12v to it, and a GOOD ground to the other as it wont ground properly with other as that is PCM controlled, put a switch in the dash next to the wts light area. then you have the warm up on demand and the brake as well, as cold as we see around here, its nice to have in the winter, otherwise mine would stay closed up to 30 minutes, while driving. Otherwise simply unplug it and leave it, as its cold here but not cold enough to REALLY need it, especially since it doesnt do much when you really need it, unless its on a switch.
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
I plan on putting it on a switch tommorow, as well as fix my IVS.
Right now its unplugged... got sick and tired of that stupid thing... LOL
but it gives a code in the computer with the thing unplugged, how could I make it so it has no code and no CEL when I have it wired up?
Maybe it just has a code and no CEL, and the CEL is STILL from my Glow Plug Code that will NOT GO AWAY...
P1395 will not go away, after doing my glow plugs, new harnesses, new gaskets, new harnesss plugs, and a new glow plug shunt... Maybe its the relay now? It was new as of January GPR 109...
Any ideas on that?
Right now its unplugged... got sick and tired of that stupid thing... LOL
but it gives a code in the computer with the thing unplugged, how could I make it so it has no code and no CEL when I have it wired up?
Maybe it just has a code and no CEL, and the CEL is STILL from my Glow Plug Code that will NOT GO AWAY...
P1395 will not go away, after doing my glow plugs, new harnesses, new gaskets, new harnesss plugs, and a new glow plug shunt... Maybe its the relay now? It was new as of January GPR 109...
Any ideas on that?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 921
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From: Denver CO
If yours is working Id leave it alone, when I did it, I tried to use the existing ground, but it wouldnt operate so I regrounded it, worked great, somebody told me the power and the ground on it were controled by the pcm, not just the power.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 287
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From: Gunnison, Co.
I got rid of mine years ago when I did the 3" down pipe - I live in Gunnison, Co and I'm sure you know how cold it gets here. Before I gutted it I simply unplugged it. That does not throw any codes. At -30 to -40 it would lock itself closed and I would have to shut off the truck and restart it to get it to break loose. Truck has much more power in the cold once I unplugged it and even better once removed. Truck warms up just fine with out it. Also found that the actuator starts to leak oil eventually. Piece of junk some engineer came up with IMHO.
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From: Lakewood, Colorado
Well I put two switches in today... I put in the EBPV switch in, and it works... I did have to run its own ground though.
I also put a switch in that allows me to turn on and off the ICP mod... that way I can turn it on and off as wanted... BTW the 22k mod seems to do just fine on the EGTs with my truck...
Once I get a Chip (soon hopefully) I will take the ICP switch, and I will just use that switch and wire up a light on the back of my truck, so I can have an easy way to light up where I am going in reverse.
I like that I can turn the ICP mod on and off, so that if I am towing the trailer, I dont have to pull the resistor out... I can just flip the switch.
I also put a switch in that allows me to turn on and off the ICP mod... that way I can turn it on and off as wanted... BTW the 22k mod seems to do just fine on the EGTs with my truck...
Once I get a Chip (soon hopefully) I will take the ICP switch, and I will just use that switch and wire up a light on the back of my truck, so I can have an easy way to light up where I am going in reverse.
I like that I can turn the ICP mod on and off, so that if I am towing the trailer, I dont have to pull the resistor out... I can just flip the switch.
