B&M Shift Improver
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 974
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B&M Shift Improver
Well, I finally got around to the shift kit this weekend. I did a tranny flush and filter with new filter, so installed the kit while I was at it. What a great improvement. The shifts feel firm and fast now, but not harsh. It's even better when towing! I opted for the actualy kit, not the Transpack or Electronic Shift Plus. The transpack was the same thing anyway, but with a filter.
New User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 16
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B&M Shift Improver
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-Oct-02 AT 08:49 PM (EST)]If you don't mind, could you give a brief decription of what's involved in the installation and if you ran into any problems?
Also, what was the part number for the kit?
Thanks
Also, what was the part number for the kit?
Thanks
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 974
Likes: 0
B&M Shift Improver
Not difficult to install, but time consuming and messy. It took me about 4 hours from start to finish, to include the pan draining and torque converter draining.
Basically it goes like this:
Drain and remove pan and filter.
Remove the valve body assemblies.
Remove the seperator plate while keeping all the check ***** in place.
Drill holes in seperator plate, replace gasket and check *****, reinstall plate.
Replace springs in valve body assemblies, then reinstall valve bodies.
Install filter and pan, filler up!
The check ***** are the most difficult part. I removed the plate and set it on the table. I then slowy peeled the gasket off leaving the check ***** in place, and my wife pulled the plate from underneath. I then left the old gasket with the check ***** in their appropriate spots on the table until I was ready to put them in the new gasket.
There is a jumper that goes between 2 wires by the PCM connector. I found that removing the battery and tray allowed me easy access to the wires. There are scotchlok connectors for easy installation. I also found the battery had been replaced and there was a great deal of surface corrosion, so I took the time to sand and primer the inner fender.
Basically it goes like this:
Drain and remove pan and filter.
Remove the valve body assemblies.
Remove the seperator plate while keeping all the check ***** in place.
Drill holes in seperator plate, replace gasket and check *****, reinstall plate.
Replace springs in valve body assemblies, then reinstall valve bodies.
Install filter and pan, filler up!
The check ***** are the most difficult part. I removed the plate and set it on the table. I then slowy peeled the gasket off leaving the check ***** in place, and my wife pulled the plate from underneath. I then left the old gasket with the check ***** in their appropriate spots on the table until I was ready to put them in the new gasket.
There is a jumper that goes between 2 wires by the PCM connector. I found that removing the battery and tray allowed me easy access to the wires. There are scotchlok connectors for easy installation. I also found the battery had been replaced and there was a great deal of surface corrosion, so I took the time to sand and primer the inner fender.
