Performance 351w wont start- Help Conanski!!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Performance 351w wont start- Help Conanski!!
I have a 74 351w that was bored .040 over and rebuilt. Going in and on the motor is Crane 444232 cam, GT40 heads with 1.7 RR and Flowtech LTs, stock plenum and intake. Motor is now in the truck and wont start. I did a compression test on the #1 cylindar and got 55 psi. Ouch. somethings wrong here, but what? Are the valve lashes in the heads wrong?
See thread for more info: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ont-start.html.
See thread for more info: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ont-start.html.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Heres another thing that struck my mind. When installing the cam and removing the timing gear and chain, was there a certain way the gears were supposed to go back on? It all came off easily and the gears didnt come out of the chain, so im sure they went on the same they came off. could this be my problem? <!-- / message -->
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Well yeah, with #1 piston on TDC on the compression stroke(both valves closed) the timing chain will be installed with the timing mark on both gears facing each other.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
this can all be done in the truck, correct? i dont have to pull the motor again? and can the oil stay in the pan, or does that have to be drained too?
All i should need is the timing cover gasket and a new front seal, i think?
lol
All i should need is the timing cover gasket and a new front seal, i think?
lol
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Also, what would be the best plug and wires for this application? I put in 8mm autolite wires and autolite copper plugs (pt num: 764) from advanced auto
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
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The motor can stay in , just waterpump & timing cover . Drain the coolant . If you get anythink in the oil you will need to change it .... Lew
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
when i first start it up, shoulod i rev it to 1500-2000 rpm for 15 mins, or should i just let it idle and let everything set for like 30 minss or so? And after this peroid, should i change the oil, or drive my 500 or so miles with this oil and break in additive?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Is there a way to tell the compression stroke of the no 1 pistion without taking off the valve cover? Gotta remove the top end of the motor to get to it. Kinda like to stay away from that if i can.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 8,402
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Do what a previous poster suggested and either turn the crank over quickly by hand or on the starter while holding a finger on the No1 plug hole. When you feel a rush of air out of the plug hole you will know the piston is coming up on the compression stroke.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,558
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When the piston starts to come up & up feel the air come out its on the comp stroke , then just turn the balencer to TDC . as far as start up goes if your breaking in a new cam follow there specs . Have the timing light hooked up , when it starts you may have to turn the dist to get it to idle , with the spout out set the timing & lock down the dist . Make sure you get the gears lined up good ,cam gear 6 oclok , crank gear 12 oclock . The dots must line up , hope you have a shop manule , good luck ... Lew
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Another mistake
THis is my first motor that I have ever built and everything was going fine. Until this weekend trying to finally start it... My question is, and what i didnt do, does it matter if you install a camshaft without having the #1 piston at TDC? Im thinking that it was at the top of the block when building this from the block up, but I am not sure. Id hate to have to tear everything back down int the truck. PLEASE HELP!!!