Time for a 6spd rebuild?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,447
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From: Northern Idaho
Time for a 6spd rebuild?
OK, so I'm thinking that it may be time to start saving for a rebuild or time to replace the trannie on my truck.
I noticed when I purchased the truck that 2nd and 4th liked to grind into gear as I was shifting if I wasn't extra gentle with them. Now I'm noticing that 3rd gear is the choice gear for grinding and that 2nd and 4th have calmed down.
So I'm thinking that maybe my sincros are going out and it may be time to rebuild or replace.
If I am extra gentle when shifting into a gear I can avoid the grind and when I changed the fluid it did not smell bunt but man do I hate grinding gears!
I have also noticed that it grinds into gear more when it's cold vs being at running temp.
Any thoughts, suggestions, questions or ideas?
Specs: E99 F250 SD 7.3L TD Supercab, 6spd, Cruise Control, AC, PW, PL, 4X4 @ 195K
I noticed when I purchased the truck that 2nd and 4th liked to grind into gear as I was shifting if I wasn't extra gentle with them. Now I'm noticing that 3rd gear is the choice gear for grinding and that 2nd and 4th have calmed down.
So I'm thinking that maybe my sincros are going out and it may be time to rebuild or replace.
If I am extra gentle when shifting into a gear I can avoid the grind and when I changed the fluid it did not smell bunt but man do I hate grinding gears!
I have also noticed that it grinds into gear more when it's cold vs being at running temp.
Any thoughts, suggestions, questions or ideas?
Specs: E99 F250 SD 7.3L TD Supercab, 6spd, Cruise Control, AC, PW, PL, 4X4 @ 195K
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
How's your clutch?
If it won't completly disengage when you push the pedal down it will make the tranny grind.
Easy way to verify is to attempt reverse gear from neutral. If the gears won't stop spinning, even with the pedal on the floor you need to eliminate that possibility first.
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With that said, I'm on a replacement tranny due to one of the bearing failing.
It was an easy diagnosis for me because I could hear it rumbling over the sound of the engine and a fluid change came out looking like mother of pearl.
If it won't completly disengage when you push the pedal down it will make the tranny grind.
Easy way to verify is to attempt reverse gear from neutral. If the gears won't stop spinning, even with the pedal on the floor you need to eliminate that possibility first.
.
With that said, I'm on a replacement tranny due to one of the bearing failing.
It was an easy diagnosis for me because I could hear it rumbling over the sound of the engine and a fluid change came out looking like mother of pearl.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,498
Likes: 3
From: Windsor, Colorado
I would check the clutch as well. I had a n early 99 6spd that was hard on clutches (although I was demanding a lot out of it).
You don't want to wait until it is gone out completely as you run a serious risk of damaging the input shaft on the tranny. If you do that it goes from a clutch repair to tranny OH/replacement.
You don't want to wait until it is gone out completely as you run a serious risk of damaging the input shaft on the tranny. If you do that it goes from a clutch repair to tranny OH/replacement.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Northern Idaho
Well when I purchased the truck it had a bad clutch in it so it was replaced at my request. So it's a new factory clutch and if I put the clutch in and move it from gear to gear it will shift just fine. It does not like to go into reverse if the truck is moving AT ALL. I have to be at a dead stop.
What else should I be looking for when checking the clutch?
What else should I be looking for when checking the clutch?
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 259
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What transmission fluid are you using?
You might be able to eek out some more time, but sounds like the synchros are toast. Any grinding (assuming a working clutch) means the synchros are already wore out, and the grinding is damaging the dogs themselves, and if it keeps happening you'll be replacing them along with the synchros.
You might be able to eek out some more time, but sounds like the synchros are toast. Any grinding (assuming a working clutch) means the synchros are already wore out, and the grinding is damaging the dogs themselves, and if it keeps happening you'll be replacing them along with the synchros.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Well when I purchased the truck it had a bad clutch in it so it was replaced at my request. So it's a new factory clutch and if I put the clutch in and move it from gear to gear it will shift just fine. It does not like to go into reverse if the truck is moving AT ALL. I have to be at a dead stop.
What else should I be looking for when checking the clutch?
What else should I be looking for when checking the clutch?
Any lower than that, check the master/slave cylinder.
On my truck, the master cylinder was sliding in and out of it's mount just a little bit. My solution was to wrap some baling wire around the base of the master cylinder between the ears on the cylinder and the firewall.
It sort of "shimmed" up the clutch master so that it wouldn't shift up and down as I was operating the clutch.
I also removed the helper spring and jury rigged a pedal return spring that was just strong enough to pull the pedal to the fully up position.
The net result of that is that I have a clutch pedal that rides a little higher than the brake pedal at rest and the clutch won't begin to engage until the pedal has risen from the floor at least 3 inches.
I'm saying all that to try and emphasize the fact that a clutch that won't fully disengage will produce all kinds of shifting difficulties that sometimes get blamed as a bad tranny.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Northern Idaho
Well it does start to engage a bit early off the floor, I'd say about 2 inches and my master cylinder is a bit loose as well. I will try shimming it up.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Also, FWIW, I am on the original clutch slave/master assembly from the factory and it is still working like new.
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I REALLY wish there was a bleeder on the slave cylinder so I could flush it every other year like the brakes need to be done.
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I REALLY wish there was a bleeder on the slave cylinder so I could flush it every other year like the brakes need to be done.
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,447
Likes: 1
From: Northern Idaho
I wonder if there is a aftermarket replacement that is better then what we have.
I know you can flush the master and slave cylinder but you have to pull both out and put it on the bench and gravity bleed it.
I was doing a search on instructions for bleeding the clutch and found this post via google. This may explain the problem that I am having.... A week arm between the slave and throw out bearing. It may be starting to bend. Time to order a replacement, fix my up pipe leak while pulling the trannie out and replace the idler bushing with a kevlar bushing.
This will have to go on my to do list as my EBPS is in need of replacement.
I also found some troubleshooting proceedures listed by pullinair on https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...nd-master.html
Here are the instructions, I will read them over carefully so I can fully examine the situation as I like things to run at 100% or better.
http://www.zf.com/na/content/media/i...ide/S6-650.pdf
I know you can flush the master and slave cylinder but you have to pull both out and put it on the bench and gravity bleed it.
I was doing a search on instructions for bleeding the clutch and found this post via google. This may explain the problem that I am having.... A week arm between the slave and throw out bearing. It may be starting to bend. Time to order a replacement, fix my up pipe leak while pulling the trannie out and replace the idler bushing with a kevlar bushing.
This will have to go on my to do list as my EBPS is in need of replacement.
I also found some troubleshooting proceedures listed by pullinair on https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...nd-master.html
Here are the instructions, I will read them over carefully so I can fully examine the situation as I like things to run at 100% or better.
http://www.zf.com/na/content/media/i...ide/S6-650.pdf
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,447
Likes: 1
From: Northern Idaho
LOL, already bought one and installed it. I don't have the plastic clip anymore, I have that little gizmo.
Anyhow, it may be a while before I post back. I plan on pulling the trannie when i have a chance and replacing the throw out bearing arm, idler bushing and fixing my damned exaust leaks.
I'll post back when I pull things apart
Anyhow, it may be a while before I post back. I plan on pulling the trannie when i have a chance and replacing the throw out bearing arm, idler bushing and fixing my damned exaust leaks.
I'll post back when I pull things apart
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
I notice my 6-speed will like to give me a bit of a clack back when I shift into 3rd gear when it's cold. After it has warmed up, no more clack. I make sure to push the clutch to the floor and this seems to really help out too.
Now that's cool. I'm going to look into that for sure. Do those apply to a '00 PSD?
I bet I know the problem!
Check out this link.
Check out this link.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
I notice my 6-speed will like to give me a bit of a clack back when I shift into 3rd gear when it's cold. After it has warmed up, no more clack. I make sure to push the clutch to the floor and this seems to really help out too.
Now that's cool. I'm going to look into that for sure. Do those apply to a '00 PSD?
Now that's cool. I'm going to look into that for sure. Do those apply to a '00 PSD?