body work q
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Sidney, BC, Canada
body work q
I've been out and about getting quotes on putting new paint onto my truck. I have a bit of bubbling under the paint (not the original paint, btw) at the top of the 'bump' on the box, and on the vertical seam at the back of the box.
One guy I spoke to is adamant that it should be 'wire wheeled' away. The other guy I spoke to wants to sand blast it.
Is there a clear winner as to which method is better?
Once it's cleaned up, is there a preferred method to seal the seam so it won't happen again?
I have a pic, but not sure how to attach...
darrell
One guy I spoke to is adamant that it should be 'wire wheeled' away. The other guy I spoke to wants to sand blast it.
Is there a clear winner as to which method is better?
Once it's cleaned up, is there a preferred method to seal the seam so it won't happen again?
I have a pic, but not sure how to attach...
darrell
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 456
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Wire wheeling it off works, but then it doesnt get all the way down, and some pitting rust can be left.
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Sand blasting it away will get it down to bare metal all the way and get all of the rust off. I personally would use aluminum oxide blast material as sand could warp the metal if the guy blasts too long in one place.
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To seal the seam, I would use two coats of silver Rust Bullet, then a single coat of black East Wood Rust Encapsulator. Both of these products are proven to seal out rust and also seal up and encapsulate any remaining rust.
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If you were wanting to get rid of the seam all together, you can have it welded up all the way, then prep it with the two product above, then prep for paint and spray it with color.
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Sand blasting it away will get it down to bare metal all the way and get all of the rust off. I personally would use aluminum oxide blast material as sand could warp the metal if the guy blasts too long in one place.
**
To seal the seam, I would use two coats of silver Rust Bullet, then a single coat of black East Wood Rust Encapsulator. Both of these products are proven to seal out rust and also seal up and encapsulate any remaining rust.
**
If you were wanting to get rid of the seam all together, you can have it welded up all the way, then prep it with the two product above, then prep for paint and spray it with color.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 456
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Also, im not sure if you know or not, but the seam above the bump is a factory seam where the upper bed skin attaches to the lower part of the bed skin, from the factory there is a seam sealer/adheasive that was applied. When this sealer gets old it cracks and moisture gets in causing the rust.
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Im sure you knew that from looking at your truck, but if someone didnt and sees this, now they will. That is why either process can work, its just how much rust you have would dictate which you choose.
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Also know that once you remove the sealer there will be a deeper gap then what you originally had, not much more but noticeable. Thus why welding it up is the best option to refill the gap.
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From my experience, rust bubbles = rust that once removed leaves pitting.
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I also believe that some of the aftermarket mags have seam sealer that you could stick back in there to restore the factory appearance. Though at the cost of having to redo the work years from now.
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Im sure you knew that from looking at your truck, but if someone didnt and sees this, now they will. That is why either process can work, its just how much rust you have would dictate which you choose.
**
Also know that once you remove the sealer there will be a deeper gap then what you originally had, not much more but noticeable. Thus why welding it up is the best option to refill the gap.
**
From my experience, rust bubbles = rust that once removed leaves pitting.
**
I also believe that some of the aftermarket mags have seam sealer that you could stick back in there to restore the factory appearance. Though at the cost of having to redo the work years from now.
