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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Hotter Heater ?

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Old Oct 3, 2009 | 05:01 PM
  #16  
Danger_Dave's Avatar
Danger_Dave
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From: UPSTATE NY
Originally Posted by jowilker
Remove the valve. Get a 2" piece of copper water pipe and 2 hose clamps and put the pass through in place of the valve. That way you can make sure the valve isn't the issue.




John
okay i'll give that a shot too, but like i said i can hold the valve up, open it manually and see straight through the puppy, and it doesnt bind or jam up whatsoever.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2009 | 05:40 PM
  #17  
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sandmanf250
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in an older vehicle it has probably seen a lot of hard water in it's day and that is why they clog up. modern way is to use distilled water.if you backflush it and it''s still not right i would get a new core.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2009 | 07:03 PM
  #18  
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so I was just reading this thread like yesterday and now today my heater core springs a leak Lol. So I figure im going to take the time and plug the airvent while im down there. My question is are you guys plugging the vent and leaving the rubber boot off so It can draw air in from the cab?
 
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Old Oct 3, 2009 | 11:52 PM
  #19  
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From: LAT 46.55501° & LON -122
I would look for a different core. Even when new, some may be more efficient than others at transfering heat. Maybe there are some aftermarket ones out there that are larger or have more rows or made from aluminum with thinner wall core tubes?

Maybe there is a way you could add a second core to the system; a sort of heater pre-heater that could be teed-in parallel with the existing core's hoses?

I would have to be against blocking the fresh air intake. Fresh air is usually drier and helps keep the windows clear. The fresh intake also increases the air pressure inside the cab which helps keep engine bay & exhaust fumes from entering as well as any slight water leaks that may have developed over 40 years of time. And besides, who wants to breathe stale air?

Kris
 
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 10:21 AM
  #20  
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Are your heater lines routed the correct way, maybe the path of least resistance is not thru the heater core and someplace else in the circuit, thus limiting your warm water flow.

 
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 10:36 AM
  #21  
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The correct thermostat should be 205, replace the heater core with a high quality unit (pay the price if you truly want hot heat), do not close off the fresh air. This should work, if not get an electric unit and be done with it!
 
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 11:47 AM
  #22  
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
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Originally Posted by DarkWolf40
The correct thermostat should be 205, replace the heater core with a high quality unit (pay the price if you truly want hot heat), do not close off the fresh air. This should work, if not get an electric unit and be done with it!
Don't know where you got your info from but a 180º thermostat is what came in the trucks and used since new.

There is pretty much a single heater core not fancy upgrades.

Why do you say do close off fresh air. I am getting a damn plenty from other sources in my cab.


John
 
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