So I'm leaning towards the second alternator option now so I need to clarify some things.

1. Since the second alternator has to be isolated (and grounded to the 12V positive) what would be the best way to go about this? What I'm coming up with is that I would need to bascially make a rubber sleeve that would run through the mounting bracket AND the mounting holes of the second alternator; that way the bolt wouldn't be able to ground through.

2. To make the ground for the second alternator, would I need to drill into the casing at a non critical area (so it won't hit any revolving parts) and attatched a ground wire connecting to the 12V positive post?

3. To complete the 24V system the batteries would be wired in series (12V POS to batt #2 NEG) and then power wires would then be run from battery #2 POS to whatever accessories I choose?

4. The second alternator would be starting out as a 1 wire alternator. Since it can't be allowed to ground through the casing to the engine/bracket; is it now going to be a 2 wire alternator? Where does the first wire connect to?

Thanks for helping out so much ya'll. Some of my questions may seem odd, but I have lousy internet and some websites that I would gather my own info from just don't work so I have to ask them here. Again, thanks for bearing with me on this.

 

Would not something like this work?


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Your diode between the batteries that goes to ground would be a dead short. The diodes between the BAT (Field) connection are wrong also. The BAT terminal energizes the Field coils in the ALT. You need power to flow to the Field. Let me see if I can find my picture of the correct wiring for a GM ALT.

 

Subford, your picture shows the 10-SI or 12-SI GM Alt. The bat terminal goes to battery and is used to energize the field, The larger wire on the connector goes to the rectifier pack and the small wire on the connector goes to 12V switched to energize the contraption <------OK I know this is a technical word and might confuse somebody LOL

The light bulb can be replaced by a diode, and is required to keep the ALT from backfeeding the circuit with the power turned off. (Engine will continue to run after key is turned off.) The lamp is handy in that just like on a GM product, it lights when the ALT is not charging and can be used to monitor.

On a GM one wire ALT all these connections are made internally. No Fuss, no muss, at a substantial rise in cost. I have been putting these GM alternators on my externally regulated Ford since the early 1990's. Such a better design.

 

I do not see any dead shorts:


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Current flows the direction of the arrow on a diode.

 

No the current always flows against the arrows.

 

Check this link Subford:

Diodes

Electronics is something I know very well. I've been building circuits since I was 12. I am currently an old man.

 

I think it better to isolate the bolt from the bracket, not bolt from alt. To sleeve the bolt would force you to either make the bolt of too small diameter or enlarge the hole in the alt, making in useless elsware and likely making the mount to thin.

I would do something like this for each place were bolt meats bracket.
Black = Rubber, Red = Bracket, Green = Bolt, Purple = Metal Washer, Blue = Alternator Body


You won't have to drill into the body, first of all most alternators already have an unused bolt for that purpose. Second if it doesn't all you need is an eyelet against the case held in place with one of the mounting bolts.


Yes

Aftermarket 1 wire alternators are called that because they only need one wire to work, between the bat post on the alt and the battery. They start themselves when they're turned by the motor. These 1 wire alts usually ground through the case/brackets.

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Subford, your drawing was more complicated then it needs to be, this is more correct. None of the diodes are needed, and the grounds for the second alt and between the batteries would be a short.

I added a switch to ground between the batteries to show one of the big advantages of a system like this for a truck. Switching the second battery from BAT #1 POS to Ground makes the second Battery and Alternator an isolated backup or auxilary 12v system. You can jump start yourself, or use it as a deep cycle for acc without draining the primary bat. There's all kinds of goodness from a system like this with some clever wiring.

 

Greenwoodford, do you live in Tacoma or are you just based out of Ft. Lewis?

 

I smell smoke real well now.......

Rubber will deform under the pressure and fail.
A diode, in this case a heavy duty rectifier (another name for diode, but heavy duty) would be necessary to prevent back flow from occurring between the 2 systems.

It is still a heck of allot cheaper and easier to buy some new lights.

Less fire potential as well.

 

Yes, there is a need to make sure the rubber is sturdy, but that's often true all over the place. If sturdy enough rubber cannot be used then just substitute plastic. But if thick and sturdy enough rubber can be used it is a better choice for it's ability to dampen.

No, diodes/rectifiers are needed, not sure why you think so. But the alternators already have rectifiers in them (3 diodes), that's what makes them alternators, and not generators. Without the rectifiers they would be 3 phase AC generators.

 

Subford and kc0rey, you two got into this current frow argument. Here's my addition to the agrument. And this whole which way current flows argument doesn't matter and is something electrical engineers have been arguing over for a long time.

 

Your drawings say that the current does flow against the arrows.
Current flows from negative to positive as there is an excess of electrons on the negative plate and they will do what ever they can to get to the positive side of the battery. That is why the lamp is on in "A".

By the way I did work as an Electronics Technician for 10 years and another 10 years supervising a group Electronics Technicians. Started out working on main frame computers and their interface to sensors and solenoids but at the end were using MicroComputers. Did a lot of board level repair so I think I know how current flows through a diode.

 

I am base out of Ft. Lewis, but I own my home in Tacoma and will be returning there after deployment. My truck that all this discussion is for is at my house in Tacoma as well.