Any advise
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Covina, CA
Any advise
Getting ready to button the top end up. First will be the heads then the Edlebrock intake and Eddy carb, is there any last minute advise with the gaskets and sealants??? I am using the Red Gasket sealer as it says it holds up to 650 degrees which is the highest I have. I have both the Chilton and the Christ Big Block book, but you guys have the experience I am looking for. Thanks.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 840
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On the heads, I highly recommend Fel-Pro P/N 1020 gaskets. Be careful, as Fel-Pro makes some "el-cheapo" gaskets for the FE that are under a different P/N.
On the intake manifold gaskets, use what you like, but first decide if you want manifold heat or not. Some gaskets come cut for this, others do not. Dry fit your gaskets first and trim the top ends where the the valve cover is going to go, as they usually stick up too high. Easier to do it now as they have a metal insert and tin-snips work well. Also, I suggest gasket shellac around the water ports on the intake gaskets....both sides, about a 1/2" swath around the openings. Better safe then sorry here.
On the manifold, you can use the cork end seals, but I just use regular blue (Ford blue?...LOL) RTV. Also put a dab in each corner where the intake gaskets and end seals meet.
You didn't ask, but the rear main bearing cap is a trick to seal properley. Besides the rubber inserts and nails, I sue a small bit of RTV along the corners where the chamfered edges of teh rear cap will go as well as a very small bit from the rubber side seals over to the the rear main (cirlcular) seal. Also, have one side of the split end seal stand proud of the block about 1/4" inch (lip facing forward) and make sure you put the cap seal in to match.
On the intake manifold gaskets, use what you like, but first decide if you want manifold heat or not. Some gaskets come cut for this, others do not. Dry fit your gaskets first and trim the top ends where the the valve cover is going to go, as they usually stick up too high. Easier to do it now as they have a metal insert and tin-snips work well. Also, I suggest gasket shellac around the water ports on the intake gaskets....both sides, about a 1/2" swath around the openings. Better safe then sorry here.
On the manifold, you can use the cork end seals, but I just use regular blue (Ford blue?...LOL) RTV. Also put a dab in each corner where the intake gaskets and end seals meet.
You didn't ask, but the rear main bearing cap is a trick to seal properley. Besides the rubber inserts and nails, I sue a small bit of RTV along the corners where the chamfered edges of teh rear cap will go as well as a very small bit from the rubber side seals over to the the rear main (cirlcular) seal. Also, have one side of the split end seal stand proud of the block about 1/4" inch (lip facing forward) and make sure you put the cap seal in to match.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
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