Battery woes
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 342
Likes: 5
From: Wiltshire, United Kingdom
Battery woes
Why do these things happen just as I was about to lay out some hard - earned's on some goodies for the truck?!
It's been a year now since I bought the truck and my ownership has outlived two batteries. The last one was an Optima red top. I have had a useful family member check to see if the alternator output is down but the reading was all good. Not only that but if it WAS the alternator killing the battery it would do so in much more short order, no? Admittedly, sometimes the truck isn't used for up to 3 weeks but when it is I always take it for a good run - 60 - 150 miles depending on destination. I am wondering if it is purely the standing time that is killing them. The first battery I replaced survived a few recharges but the Optima is dead - apparently this isn't uncommon.
I'm wondering if I am "leaking" power somewhere but don't know where to start! Can anyone make any suggestions? I'll happily tinker with the mechanical side of things but electrics just stump me.
It's been a year now since I bought the truck and my ownership has outlived two batteries. The last one was an Optima red top. I have had a useful family member check to see if the alternator output is down but the reading was all good. Not only that but if it WAS the alternator killing the battery it would do so in much more short order, no? Admittedly, sometimes the truck isn't used for up to 3 weeks but when it is I always take it for a good run - 60 - 150 miles depending on destination. I am wondering if it is purely the standing time that is killing them. The first battery I replaced survived a few recharges but the Optima is dead - apparently this isn't uncommon.
I'm wondering if I am "leaking" power somewhere but don't know where to start! Can anyone make any suggestions? I'll happily tinker with the mechanical side of things but electrics just stump me.
New User
Joined: Aug 2007
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Well, the first place to start is to pull the negative battery cable, and put a test light across it; with the truck off, the light should be off. If it lights up, you have a drain.
If it lit up, next, you can start pulling fuses one at a time, and see if the light goes out (if it does not, re-insert that fuse, try the next one). If it goes out, you have just isolated the problem to whatever circuit that fuse controls.
Don't fret if the light never goes out, next start looking for wiring additions a previous owner might have installed; they could be pulling power even with the key off, causing the drain.
If it lit up, next, you can start pulling fuses one at a time, and see if the light goes out (if it does not, re-insert that fuse, try the next one). If it goes out, you have just isolated the problem to whatever circuit that fuse controls.
Don't fret if the light never goes out, next start looking for wiring additions a previous owner might have installed; they could be pulling power even with the key off, causing the drain.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 342
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From: Wiltshire, United Kingdom
I have a face - off CD player head unit that I am suspicious of, it's a cheapy for a start and I didn't wire it in. I don't know if it remembers the time, I have never set the stations either. Haven't fitted the clock yet Chris
so that isn't the culprit. Will remove the stereo - been meaning to anyways as I do have a replacement for it.
Looks like cancelling plans to strip the 302 in favor of the black arts of electronic diagnostics. BOO!
Thanks for the info thus far.
so that isn't the culprit. Will remove the stereo - been meaning to anyways as I do have a replacement for it.Looks like cancelling plans to strip the 302 in favor of the black arts of electronic diagnostics. BOO!
Thanks for the info thus far.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: NoGa.
John got it right ...
"Well, the first place to start is to pull the negative battery cable, and put a test light across it; with the truck off, the light should be off. If it lights up, you have a drain.
If it lit up, next, you can start pulling fuses one at a time, and see if the light goes out (if it does not, re-insert that fuse, try the next one). If it goes out, you have just isolated the problem to whatever circuit that fuse controls."
Also ... some times setting for a number of weeks a battery will go down ... and sometimes an alternators out put is NOT enough to recharge it.
My wifes Benz ... is sort of a "garage queen" ... we only take it out once or twice a month (MAYBE) ... and the battery would go down from just setting.
I got one of them little trickle chargers ... and keep it pluged in.
Ever since I started doing that ... no probs!
"Well, the first place to start is to pull the negative battery cable, and put a test light across it; with the truck off, the light should be off. If it lights up, you have a drain.
If it lit up, next, you can start pulling fuses one at a time, and see if the light goes out (if it does not, re-insert that fuse, try the next one). If it goes out, you have just isolated the problem to whatever circuit that fuse controls."
Also ... some times setting for a number of weeks a battery will go down ... and sometimes an alternators out put is NOT enough to recharge it.
My wifes Benz ... is sort of a "garage queen" ... we only take it out once or twice a month (MAYBE) ... and the battery would go down from just setting.
I got one of them little trickle chargers ... and keep it pluged in.
Ever since I started doing that ... no probs!
New User
Joined: Sep 2009
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electrical woes
Hey J1MMY<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o
></o>
I had the same problem with my 84 f-150. I’ve got a 6-cyl and have also had the same problems with battery drainage. I also bought an Optima battery, which turned out to be a piece of crap. After 4 Optima batteries and now a very large battery, I determined the problem was the voltage regulator. I also tried changing the alternator with the same problem. Also I don’t recommend a cheapy voltage regulator (these trucks don’t seem to like cheap) and if you want to avoid this problem happening again DO NOT give anyone a boost. Being a good Samaritan ends up hitting your wallet.<o></o>
fficeffice" /><o></o>I had the same problem with my 84 f-150. I’ve got a 6-cyl and have also had the same problems with battery drainage. I also bought an Optima battery, which turned out to be a piece of crap. After 4 Optima batteries and now a very large battery, I determined the problem was the voltage regulator. I also tried changing the alternator with the same problem. Also I don’t recommend a cheapy voltage regulator (these trucks don’t seem to like cheap) and if you want to avoid this problem happening again DO NOT give anyone a boost. Being a good Samaritan ends up hitting your wallet.<o
></o>
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 342
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From: Wiltshire, United Kingdom
Thanks so much for the info and experiences.
Well, no surprise.......I can't get a charge into the Optima so a replacement is in order. Thing is , I don't know what spec battery I should be getting....what is standard issue for a 3.8 V6? No air con, no PAS, just boring base spec truck.
Well, no surprise.......I can't get a charge into the Optima so a replacement is in order. Thing is , I don't know what spec battery I should be getting....what is standard issue for a 3.8 V6? No air con, no PAS, just boring base spec truck.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Shouldn't it be something like Group Size 24? I forget exactly, but any halfway-decent place
that sells batteries oughta be able to look up the specs. Cripe, even the Owner's Manual
might specify....
that sells batteries oughta be able to look up the specs. Cripe, even the Owner's Manual
might specify....
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 342
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From: Wiltshire, United Kingdom
Do you mean a service Manual? If so then no, been through the Haynes Manual and nothing in there that I can find. Don't have a Bentley Manual (assuming they do one for these). If you mean the cute little wallet that is usually found in the glovebox with the stamped service history in it then no chance!
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Mexia, TX
I think it's something like that, Group 24. Years ago my truck had what I assume was a factory size and spec battery, and it had only ~600 cranking amps and ~550 cold cranking amps. It was a Walmart branded battery (Everlast), but I think it was correct for the truck.
My 34/78 Optima RedTop is 980CA and 800CCA, so you might check out a Group 34 or Group 78. One of those types will likely have side posts, though.
Wish I knew where my old '84 F-150 manual got off to, I think it might've listed what battery to get. I don't think the V6 is very common here in the States though.
My 34/78 Optima RedTop is 980CA and 800CCA, so you might check out a Group 34 or Group 78. One of those types will likely have side posts, though.
Wish I knew where my old '84 F-150 manual got off to, I think it might've listed what battery to get. I don't think the V6 is very common here in the States though.
New User
Joined: Sep 2009
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Electrical woes
J1MMY<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
I got a bit of info on that one too. The truck I have was given to me by my mother’s husband. He used the dog crap out of it. The motor was running, but barely. Before I rebuilt the straight it was starting up with no problem, with a 600 cca. But after the motor was rebuilt, I had tons of problems with it starting. While the truck was cold it started right up. When I drove it around and turned it off somewhere, I had to ask for a jump or wait till it cooled down. And this is with a new Sears Diehard (not to promote but Sears Diehards are the *****s), it was a pain in the ***! Anyway, to solve that problem I had another 600cca battery so I wired both batteries. <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comffice:smarttags" /><st1:stockticker>AND</st1:stockticker> IT WORKED!!!! Now I bought 1000cca battery to replace the 2 600cca and it starts w/o a problem. I hope the little short story helps.<o></o>
fficeffice" /><o></o>I got a bit of info on that one too. The truck I have was given to me by my mother’s husband. He used the dog crap out of it. The motor was running, but barely. Before I rebuilt the straight it was starting up with no problem, with a 600 cca. But after the motor was rebuilt, I had tons of problems with it starting. While the truck was cold it started right up. When I drove it around and turned it off somewhere, I had to ask for a jump or wait till it cooled down. And this is with a new Sears Diehard (not to promote but Sears Diehards are the *****s), it was a pain in the ***! Anyway, to solve that problem I had another 600cca battery so I wired both batteries. <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
ffice:smarttags" /><st1:stockticker>AND</st1:stockticker> IT WORKED!!!! Now I bought 1000cca battery to replace the 2 600cca and it starts w/o a problem. I hope the little short story helps.<o></o>
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: GANS
Thanks so much for the info and experiences.
Well, no surprise.......I can't get a charge into the Optima so a replacement is in order. Thing is , I don't know what spec battery I should be getting....what is standard issue for a 3.8 V6? No air con, no PAS, just boring base spec truck.
Well, no surprise.......I can't get a charge into the Optima so a replacement is in order. Thing is , I don't know what spec battery I should be getting....what is standard issue for a 3.8 V6? No air con, no PAS, just boring base spec truck.
Just goto the auto parts store and buy the largest two post battery that will fit... (prolly 750CCA).
Goto the junkyard and get an alternator off of a 89-93 taurus. Bolt alternator and wire accordingly. ditch regular and other crap. Problem solved, and you have a 135A alternator that will actually charge your battery when you pull up to a stop sign with your wipers, high beams, and blower on high.