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Your challenged.???..well... I don't know what the 3rd leg is for..??
I've had this thing in my box for 20 yrs and only use 2 of the 3 (soldered leads/clips for easy/quick connection)..I don't build'em.., I just use the stuff Lol! somebody smarter than me has to answer that one. You dont "need" the third leg..it just came that way. But you did get my curiosity up ..so I measured it.
Ground is the center leg (or common position 2),The 1st to center is 0 to 10k ohm, 3rd to center iis just the opposite 10k to 0 ohm. Your potentiometer choice leg configuration may vary, no warranty implicitly implied, see you local dealer for details...Lol!
Your on it,Good Luck!
yeh, this sounds most promising... got to go find an appropriate variable resistor
sam
so, I picked up a 1k potentiometer, and tested the gauge.. at 75ohms it reads 180,
at 65 ohms its reading 210, and 55 ohms is in the 225 towards buried..
when the engine is hot, and my laser temp gauge says 185, the sender is at 65..
so adding 8-10ohms as adjustment would be the ticket.
at 90 ohms the gauge reads 135 so definitely non-linear.
The people who made/sold you the electric temp gauge! Do they make/sell a mechanical gauge by the same manufacturer?
Not likely, electric gauges are cheaper (just a recalibrated ohmmeter) easier and more familiar to the average builder. Mechanical gauges are usually used for industrial purposes, and they would need to be mounted directly to the engine, remote mounting would be very complicated. Funny car and dragsters use them where a crew member can read it and signal the driver when the desired temp is reached.
I have a $15 Sunpro mechanical temp gauge on my truck though......Many of the folks who make automotive gauges make mechanical temp gauges.
Maybe I am using the wrong terminology. By mechanical gauge I mean a non electric, long tube with a bulb on the end. Bulb fits into the engne where the electric sender goes as well. Tube runs through the firewall to the gauge that is mounted in the dash or under the dash.
By the way, I was able to transplant that cheepy Sunpro gauge into the housing that had held the 51 gauge and transplant the face of the original gauge - looks original and works within 3 degrees....$15.
Not likely, electric gauges are cheaper (just a recalibrated ohmmeter) easier and more familiar to the average builder. Mechanical gauges are usually used for industrial purposes, and they would need to be mounted directly to the engine, remote mounting would be very complicated. Funny car and dragsters use them where a crew member can read it and signal the driver when the desired temp is reached.
OH?
Originally Posted by sdetweil
who 'they'? Sam
Almost all gauge manufactures make a mechanical water temp. In my experience they are much more reliable and are very hassle free. Mercury filled capillary tube or something (do not cut at the dots)! Finding the correct engine fitting adaptor can be challenging sometimes.
Here is a cheapie off e-flea.
OOPs sorry, forgot about the mercury (or other expanding liquid) filled capilary tube type, purely a mechanical gauge, but not direct reading.
Sam, glad you found a simple solution.
the 10 ohm adjustment looks like it will be perfect.
Brings the gauge needle down to match the temp.
Sam
finally got around to doing this..
bought a couple 10ohm resistors and a black inline fuse holder (holds glass fuses)..
pinched the spring so it was smaller than the resistor body, and stretched so that it would put pressure on the cap.. soldered inline to the temp sender wire..
works perfect now..
laser temp says 182, gauge says just over 180.. when temp gauge is at next mark (1/2 way between 180 & 225 on gauge, call it 200), and laser temp shows 202.
adjusted fan to come on at 205, goes off at 185.
now to replace restricter with hi flow thermostat.
Glad to hear things worked out! You can cross that one off your list of "things I want to do ...but just need the time to do it" list , LoL! Small details like this bring alot of enjoyment and satisfaction..
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