I put a Grant Classic steering wheel in my truck a few months back, and of course, lost the cruise control functions. My stock wheel was beat up and split and missing the horn bar with the cruise switches so I threw it out (LMC wants $400 for a repro wheel and horn bar - I payed $94 for the Grant wheel and installation kit - 'nuff said)

I found this website www.ronfrancis.com that sells cruise control relocating switches (when you get there, search for "cruise control"). They sell a piggy-back switch module that you clamp onto your turn-signal lever and they even sell a threaded Ford-style turn-signal lever with switches built into the end. It wouldn't be your average everyday wiring job, but it would be well worth the effort!

When I buy the lever (or the clamp-on... who knows) I'll take note of where I spliced the wires into in case anyone wants to know.

And a tip for anyone putting a Grant wheel on a column with cruise: there's two contact-buttons in your cruise column - one for the horn and one for the cruise control. Find out which one is the horn by using a screwdriver to bridge the button with the steering column. Once you've found which one is the horn button, use a pair of pliers and yank the other button (the cruise button). The concact ring in the Grant installation kit is so large it contacts both the horn button and the cruise button, and causes the cruise amplifier to make an ungodly high-pitched hissing noise when your ignition is off.

 

The Ford oem uses 2 wires and a series of different resistances on each switch to tell the controller which switch you mashed. The aftermarket stuff doesn't use the resistors. I examined it enough to figure out it would take some reverse engineering and alteration of the aftermarket stuff to possibly make it work.

 

some images that helped me figure out cruise control
robbed from an online article somewhere, if I recall the link I will add it

 

Wow. I just cut up a bunch of wires for cruise control to get it out of my truck. Some P.O. hacked it in and I was working on why the dash gauges don't work or light (only speedometer). Much nicer under the dash now and no random plugs that don't go to each other or anything else. Should have got rid of the module under the hood too but I'll do that when the fixes for my brakes come in in a few days.

 

that puts a kink in my plan I'm gonna call up Ron Francis and see if his Ford module is a x2 wire design.

If not though, simple fix. Thanks to the diagrams and figures mj posted, I'll run the wires from the controller and down the steering column and I'll wire up a hand-made circut board with the right resistors and run them to the corresponding two ports on the amps.

Or, screw the Ron Francis controller. I could just go with my original idea and put a toggle-panel under the steering column and solder the right resistors into a pair of two-way monetary toggle switches.

Resistors are 20-cents a piece so it should be cheap and easy to pull off.