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Never lift an axle using the pumpkin! That can bend the housing as the weight of the vehicle is on the ends of the axle and the lift is in the center. Never lift in the center of the axle! Thats a big no no.
Never lift an axle using the pumpkin! That can bend the housing as the weight of the vehicle is on the ends of the axle and the lift is in the center. Never lift in the center of the axle! Thats a big no no.
Now you tell me, after 50 years of doing it wrong, darn.
[QUOTE=ssharber;7933034] Its just that Crazy and I watch out for each other due to a flaming encounter we were both involved in and we showed him to the door. [/QUOTE
Darn, I sure wouldn't want to be shown the door, guess I better not disagree with you and Crazy. Ceey'all.
Im still trying to understand the jack stand logic. When the weight is on the tires isnt that essentially pushing up on the axle tubes? Same as it would on jack stands? Maybe they are trying to avoid putting the jack stands on the inside of the springs instead of the outside? I dunno.
Not that this helps for rotating tires but when I installed my leveling kit I just wrapped straps through the tow hooks and used a fork lift to raise the front of the truck high enough for the springs to fall out. It was impossible to get the truck high enough with a regular jack and I dont have a lift.
I have seen lots of people raise the back by jacking under the hitch. Because of the height it usually requires a large block of wood too which scares me, but I have seen it done more than once.
The jacking points, according to my manual, are the axle tubes themselves. From what I can see the only problem that could arise with 4x4 trucks would be jacking from the center of the axle. I haven't put mine on jack stands yet, but I would try and get the jack stands as close to the axle end as possible. On the rear axle I'd put it either directly under the leaf springs or as close to that point as I could get. Can get tricky, because it's never easy to get the jack stands right next to where you use your jack...there just isn't enough room!
[QUOTE=caprang;7935162]Im still trying to understand the jack stand logic. When the weight is on the tires isnt that essentially pushing up on the axle tubes? Same as it would on jack stands? Maybe they are trying to avoid putting the jack stands on the inside of the springs instead of the outside? I dunno.
Actually, when the truck is on the wheels, the weight is pushing with downward force in the middle, not upward force. All the weight of the motor and the rest of the vehicle are between the tires, which would exert downward force on the middle of the axle.
Actually, when the truck is on the wheels, the weight is pushing with downward force in the middle, not upward force. All the weight of the motor and the rest of the vehicle are between the tires, which would exert downward force on the middle of the axle.
Close. The weight is pushing down near the ends of the axles. This has the effect of applying a torque to the axle as if the downward force were acting on the axle like a lever with the fulcrum being the end of the axle where the wheels are. This torque applies on both sides of the truck, on each end of the axles. Which is attempting to twist the axle downward in the center, from both ends.
Is NOT the same thing as all of the weight pushing downward on the center of the axles.
Change this around a bit and think about jacking from the pumpkin. The differential becomes the new fulcrum for both sides, and the downward force from the springs is applied MUCH farther from the fulcrum in this case. Also, with the fulcrum being the exact same spot for both sides of the truck, the force would be effectively doubled. The entire truck would be coming down nearly 3 feet from the differential in both directions, which would put an ENORMOUS amount of stress on the differential, as it would be trying to break.
What would be the minimum rating for a floor jack when jacking one wheel at a time on a SRW 4x4? I have one of those Craftsman aluminum jacks with a 2 ton rating, which seems to work but it might be at it's limit. Just wondering what the rule of thumb is.
If you're only lifting one corner at a time, you should be fine with a 2-ton.
The front axle weighs just under 5,000 lbs empty. So split that, and that's the weight your jack will need to lift in order to get each wheel off the ground.
Those of you having a hard time lifting your truck with a jack need to get a bigger jack. I have a 6 ton bottle jack and it lifts my SD effortlessly. The 2 ton floor jack I have... not so much, which is why I bought the 6 ton
Guys, I've been following this thread since the beginning and I have come to this conclusion; we need to get some lives. This may be the most opinions and the longest written document ever on the subject of jacking up a truck. We must be really bored. I'm going to the movies. See y'all later.