CCV Reroute - New Location
#1
CCV Reroute - New Location
Yes there have been many posts on this subject, but I have found and installed a Reroute with a filter/separater in a new location. Most in the past have hung any filters on the frame or otherwise under the truck. I didn't like this idea because 1) collects dirt, 2) hard to get to, 3) prone to damage. I bought a separater from Tractor Supply (thanks to SideShow for finding it) for only $16. I could not make one for that.
I found a location under the hood between the Brake master and fuse box. There is a metal bracket that the fuse box is connected to that has some open mounting holes. I simply made a bracket from 3/4" angle aluminium to support the separater that bolts to this support. Actually was very easy and I have full access, and can remove the separater base without removing anything. Pictures below in my Gallary.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=220832&.jpg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=220833&.jpg
Also, thanks to Smiley1 for his writeup and inspiration.
I used copper fittings, mostly because I had them around. PVC would work just as well. I also had the angle laying around, but it is only about $5 for twice what you need. Total cost: $16 (plus shipping) for the separater, $33 for 4 feet of 1 inch hose and 4 clamps. That was it. The hose was what killed my...
Link to separater:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/...g=true&cFlag=1
I found a location under the hood between the Brake master and fuse box. There is a metal bracket that the fuse box is connected to that has some open mounting holes. I simply made a bracket from 3/4" angle aluminium to support the separater that bolts to this support. Actually was very easy and I have full access, and can remove the separater base without removing anything. Pictures below in my Gallary.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=220832&.jpg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=220833&.jpg
Also, thanks to Smiley1 for his writeup and inspiration.
I used copper fittings, mostly because I had them around. PVC would work just as well. I also had the angle laying around, but it is only about $5 for twice what you need. Total cost: $16 (plus shipping) for the separater, $33 for 4 feet of 1 inch hose and 4 clamps. That was it. The hose was what killed my...
Link to separater:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/...g=true&cFlag=1
#2
EZ-Ford...looks pretty sweet...great value. Applaud you for doing the mod and sharing with others...and I really don't want to rain on your parade....but....please keep an eye on how it is doing from time to time...since I'm guessing it wasn't designed for 8 cfm of pressure. Hate to see something blow a gasket. Good write up with pics.
#4
The filter media is simply a stainless steel screen.
As far as pressure, I don't see where there is any need to worry, but will watch it over time obviously. The hoses are 1" heater hoses that handle a lot more pressure than this could ever generate. The copper fittings, well nothing needs to be said there. The separater itself seems to be built very well and is made for this type of application. The stock fittings on each end are probably the weakest point.
I have noticed that many people have dropped to use 3/4" hose. I have kept it at 1" to keep max air flow possible. The use of copper fittings also keeps flow up because of small wall thickness while still being able to use the 1" hose.
As far as pressure, I don't see where there is any need to worry, but will watch it over time obviously. The hoses are 1" heater hoses that handle a lot more pressure than this could ever generate. The copper fittings, well nothing needs to be said there. The separater itself seems to be built very well and is made for this type of application. The stock fittings on each end are probably the weakest point.
I have noticed that many people have dropped to use 3/4" hose. I have kept it at 1" to keep max air flow possible. The use of copper fittings also keeps flow up because of small wall thickness while still being able to use the 1" hose.
#6
EZ-Ford,
I really like your CCV Re-route installation. I plan on installing the exact setup you did with the same filter/separator. I agree that the pros of this design are unique. Since it has been installed for a while now in your truck, I am interested to find out how the unit has worked out for you? Any issues or things to note about this type of installation? Has it been catching much oil? My only concern is the flow rate through the device. I have yet to see the inside of the top portion inlet/outlet area of one of these separators. I also cannot locate one in any local hardware store to check out before I order online. Also, did you order the one with the 3/4 opening or the 1 inch unit. I know you mentioned the copper hose ends are one inch but I was not sure if the thread in was also one inch or the 3/4 inch thread in unit. Any help or feedback you can provide is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I really like your CCV Re-route installation. I plan on installing the exact setup you did with the same filter/separator. I agree that the pros of this design are unique. Since it has been installed for a while now in your truck, I am interested to find out how the unit has worked out for you? Any issues or things to note about this type of installation? Has it been catching much oil? My only concern is the flow rate through the device. I have yet to see the inside of the top portion inlet/outlet area of one of these separators. I also cannot locate one in any local hardware store to check out before I order online. Also, did you order the one with the 3/4 opening or the 1 inch unit. I know you mentioned the copper hose ends are one inch but I was not sure if the thread in was also one inch or the 3/4 inch thread in unit. Any help or feedback you can provide is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
#7
I did some pressure drop calculations using "blow-by" rates in cfm published by Racor. They recommended using 10 cfm flow for a well worn 6.0L engine (so this was a conservative rate IMO). At this rate, I calculated that you need AT LEAST 3/4 inch hose and you would be better off with 1 inch hose to avoid backpressuring the crankcase beyond 0.3 psi. The PC/ED manual states that the maximum crankcase pressure should be is 0.3 psig. I used 1 inch hose "to and from" the filter (on my project I installed a frame rail mounted filter and returned the vent to the intake).
After installing my ccv re-route, I installed a temporary pressure/vacuum gauge on the oil dipstick tube (using a hose long enough to get the gauge into the Cab) to check the backpressure and/or vacuum. I was hoping to get some vacuum, but the intake will not normally produce enough vacuum to put your crankcase under vacuum. Only at WOT accelerations, did I see a very slight vacuum being pulled - at most 1 inch of mercury. Typically, I saw a very slight back pressure- a few tenths of a PSI or less.
I would be interested in this same type of test with yor set-up.
After installing my ccv re-route, I installed a temporary pressure/vacuum gauge on the oil dipstick tube (using a hose long enough to get the gauge into the Cab) to check the backpressure and/or vacuum. I was hoping to get some vacuum, but the intake will not normally produce enough vacuum to put your crankcase under vacuum. Only at WOT accelerations, did I see a very slight vacuum being pulled - at most 1 inch of mercury. Typically, I saw a very slight back pressure- a few tenths of a PSI or less.
I would be interested in this same type of test with yor set-up.
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#8
Bismic,
I believe the outlet port on the dog house is 3/4 inch diameter so everyone seems to be using 3/4 inch hose (I am assuming the return connection fitting at the underside of the air inlet tube is also 3/4 inch.) Do you really gain anything by using a one inch rubber hose since the restriction on either end is at the smaller 3/4 inch diameter? I have no problem using 1 inch if it will flow the blow by gas better but it doesn't seem like it will make a difference. Also, you will have to really tighten down those hose clamps on the 3/4 inch outlet to make a 1 inch hose snug. Look forward to the feedback.
I believe the outlet port on the dog house is 3/4 inch diameter so everyone seems to be using 3/4 inch hose (I am assuming the return connection fitting at the underside of the air inlet tube is also 3/4 inch.) Do you really gain anything by using a one inch rubber hose since the restriction on either end is at the smaller 3/4 inch diameter? I have no problem using 1 inch if it will flow the blow by gas better but it doesn't seem like it will make a difference. Also, you will have to really tighten down those hose clamps on the 3/4 inch outlet to make a 1 inch hose snug. Look forward to the feedback.
#10
My ccv filter had inlet and outlet fittings larger than 1", so I swedged down - but I am conservative.
Pressure drop is a function of length as well as diameter. If you run your hose very far, the 3/4 inch hose will cause some measureable back-pressure. A 1" hose with reducers down to 3/4" at the filter will be less back-pressure than a 3/4" system all the way. How much backpressure will depend on the blow-by your engine has (now and later - as it wears).
I would say that on a newer engine, the 3/4" hose would probably be fine, but the only way to tell for sure is to measure your crankcase pressure. I think that anyone doing this mod should finish it up w/ a pressure measurement.
Pressure drop is a function of length as well as diameter. If you run your hose very far, the 3/4 inch hose will cause some measureable back-pressure. A 1" hose with reducers down to 3/4" at the filter will be less back-pressure than a 3/4" system all the way. How much backpressure will depend on the blow-by your engine has (now and later - as it wears).
I would say that on a newer engine, the 3/4" hose would probably be fine, but the only way to tell for sure is to measure your crankcase pressure. I think that anyone doing this mod should finish it up w/ a pressure measurement.
#11
Bismic - Thanks for the feedback. I will consider buying the separator unit that has actual 1 inch inlet and outlet fittings along with 1 inch hose. I will also order the unit with the least restrictive mesh screen of "50" or below. I believe the total run length of hose is only about 4 feet as EZ-Ford stated above. This is much less than others are doing with routing to frame rails and back or a draft tube to the rear of the truck. I would rather have more than not enough and I don't have the means to test for backpressure/vacuum levels associate with the mod. I have yet to hear back from EZ-Ford with his feedback but hope to get that soon. My only remaining concern is whether or not that inline separator with mesh screen will meet the minimum requirement for flow with 1 inch ports and hose. Also, will it actually help separate out oil from the blow by gas. What do you think of that separator design?
#12
The mesh design is like many typical coalescing filters. The key is the velocity through the filter. The lower the velocity the better for coalescing, so I would think the 1 inch would be a good move, but this is just a guess on my part - couldn't hurt though (assuming the cost difference is not all that much).
You are right on the length - 4 feet is MUCH less than mine, so again I would think 3/4 would work, but the less back-pressure the better.
I would really like to see some pressure numbers on this design AND the reports of how much oil is being removed!
As far as the pressure readings are concerned, a pressure/vacuum gauge and some small diameter hose are pretty cheap at the auto parts store. Just make sure you can read tenths of a psi (or estimate down that low) on the pressure side of the gauge.
Keep your OEM equipment - it may be necessary to swap back if you go to the dealership for warranty work. It shouldn't be necessary, but some dealerships are "sticklers".
You are right on the length - 4 feet is MUCH less than mine, so again I would think 3/4 would work, but the less back-pressure the better.
I would really like to see some pressure numbers on this design AND the reports of how much oil is being removed!
As far as the pressure readings are concerned, a pressure/vacuum gauge and some small diameter hose are pretty cheap at the auto parts store. Just make sure you can read tenths of a psi (or estimate down that low) on the pressure side of the gauge.
Keep your OEM equipment - it may be necessary to swap back if you go to the dealership for warranty work. It shouldn't be necessary, but some dealerships are "sticklers".
#13
#14
Bismic - One more quick question. Regarding your previous statement, "My ccv filter had inlet and outlet fittings larger than 1", so I swedged down - but I am conservative." When you say you SWEDGED down I take it to mean that you used an inlet nipple that dropped your larger than an inch diameter filter canister port hole down to the 1 inch hose diameter size. Just want to make sure. Getting ready to buy all the parts and pieces. Thanks again.
#15
Bismic - One more quick question. Regarding your previous statement, "My ccv filter had inlet and outlet fittings larger than 1", so I swedged down - but I am conservative." When you say you SWEDGED down I take it to mean that you used an inlet nipple that dropped your larger than an inch diameter filter canister port hole down to the 1 inch hose diameter size. Just want to make sure. Getting ready to buy all the parts and pieces. Thanks again.