well i just started running waste oil in my truck today...seems to be running good...hopefully she can take it....i think it will....filtered it out and then put it in so it should be ok

 

WMO or WVO? I had ran WVO for over a year now and I don't think I will ever run it staight again. I have gone through two IP..the one lasting only a few days. Every not and then it seemed like I was getting air in the lines but after taking a pump apart I have found out the two pistons that compress the fuel locked up to some degree where the low pressure fuel could not push them out anymore to let fuel in to be compressed. Play a little luck with it. I had the one pump last almost a year and about 2000miles. Still not 100% certain if I can blame this problem on the WVO but it seems like a good start. Those pistons have extremely tight tolerances and it just doesnt seem that I have had adequate lubrication.

 

tabascom16 If you run WVO you first need to make sure it has been filtered very very good. Before you turn on the WVO you will need to have the engine up to operating temp and running on Diesel. After the engine is up to operating temp you can turn on the WVO. Once you have it in the truck the oil needs to be heated before it is pumped into the IP. if not the oil will kill an IP. I don't know where you are but if your in a cold climate, you will need a heater in the tank before the WVO pump. Then just before the IP another heater to make sure the oil going into the IP is hot enough about 170 degrees. When shutting down, you need to run the engine on Diesel with the return going into the WVO tank so you don't mix the Diesel with WVO.

 

no im running WMO i got 20 gallons free i filtered it out and put it in...but after i did that it ran fine untill i went down the road bout1/4 mile then it spt and sputtered and died...took off the return line and there was nothing...so i think it was to thick so i mixed it with about 4 gallons of diesel and now its workin great

 

I'm a little new to this so let me get this straight. So I could drain the oil out of motor, run it through a filter and dump into my fuel tank, mixed with the diesel? Or would I need a different set up?

 

that's pretty much what i have been doing. got a 1 micron filter, and put a tap in the side of a 5 gallon pail a couple inches up off the bottom. put the filter in the lid, just pour the oil in, let it sit and settle (must be a lot of stuff like combustion by-products < 1 micron in this stuff), then drain the god stuff off the top into the tank... haven;t gone more than 50/50. supposed to be getting some used trans fluid soon too.. worried a little about the red color though..

the first few gallons i didn;t let settle, and the truck's fuel filter clogged pretty quick. but it was the one that was on the truck when i bought it, had rust in it and other crap, so i'm not sure i can blame it 100% on the WMO. but after the first few times i was just pouring the oil out of the 5 gallon bucket and i saw what was left on the bottom after it sat a few days, i decided i did not want that in the tank.

 

ive been takin it running it through a old pair of jeans and putting it in my tank..mixing it about 75%oil 25% diesel...seems to work good

 

It seems to me that it would smoke more and the cylinders would run a little hotter. But like I said, I'm new to this.

 

Look at the viscosity of motor oil compared to diesel fuel.

The injection pump was not designed to pump fuel that thick, and with lower temps getting closer, the viscosity problem will get worse.

 

well as winter gets closer i will mix it either 50/50 or 60/40 ...but since i put it in it idles alot smoother and also has a little more power....smell is different obviously but egts are about the same...smokes a little more but more blue than black

 

Think about how thick your engine oil gets in the winter. Injection pumps can't handle that thick oil. I second Dave Sponaugle!!

 

There is more to the story than just killing the IP trying to inject thick oil.
The timing is also set partially by fuel pressure inside the IP.

So temp variations are going to vary the viscosity of the oil, which in turn will vary the injection timing.
Bad thing, which way it changes will not be contant.

When it gets thick, the lift pump and IP housing pressure pump may not be able to pump enough, so the pressure goes down.

Thick oil inside the IP will not go through the passages as well, so now the pressure increases.

Basic bottom line should be the oil fuel mix viscosity needs to be very close to the viscosity of regular #2 fuel at the local ambient air temp.

There was a post in here a week or so ago about killing an IP running 130 gallons of straight WMO for fuel.
Locally the fuel is 2.89 a gallon and an IP is 435 dollars.

Given the cost of fuel, replacement parts cost and time to change the parts, I would have saved about 150 dollars buying pump fuel to operate my truck instead of running WMO if my results were the same.

If I remember right, that was also his second IP killed running straight WMO.

135 gallons should have resulted in about 2000 miles at 15 MPG.
At 15 MPG and 2.89 a gallon fuel that is about 19 cents per mile.
A 435 dollar IP divided by 2000 miles works out to 22 cents per mile, and you still have to change the dead one out.

Running WMO and buying no fuel looked like a huge cost savings, but it actually costs more money than buying the fuel does.

 

i hear what all all are sayin....but auctually now that im running the oil/fuel mix my truck runs alot smoother it doesnt have the rough idle and it doesnt seem to have a problem....at first i tried running straight oil but it was too thick and it died but now that i have it mixed it runs fine and alot better....but also the guy that said that he replaced his pump i believe he said that he is still runnin the oil with out a problem now....unless im thinkin of another post.....but i dont plan on havin the truck for too much longer....mabe a year or 2....i thank yall for your input and if my pump goes than stupid me for not listenin but if it dont and and i save a boat load of money than that would be great.....i appreciate all your guys input yall have always been helpfull through the year

 

with todays ulsd (low sulfur diesel) it would prob be a good thing to run a few quarts or a gallon with each tank of diesel just to help lube everything and keep a higher cetane level

 

If I ran 100% WMO in my truck and two IP's died in under 5,000 miles, I would take that as a rather good indication that the next one will also have a short life.

Right now when I fill up, the cost is close to 190 dollars since I carry 66 gallons which runs me about 2 weeks.
If fuel prices stay at the same level that amounts to just shy of 5000 for fuel this year.

If I was going to run WMO, why not run a lower percentage of WMO and be happy with saving money?

10% would save 500 dollars a year.
20% would save 1000 a year.
30% would save 1500 a year.

100% would save 5000, but I would be spending 5220 on injection pumps.

What I am trying to get across is why run such high percentages of WMO that the savings are replaced by higher maintenance costs?
That is not a savings, you are just changing where your money goes from the filling station to the parts store.

A 15 MPG truck running 30% WMO would turn into a 20 MPG truck as far as fuel costs go.