Battery Light...
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Des Moines, Iowa
Battery Light...
Ok so my battery light intermitently comes on and goes off... It won't stay on long enough for me to pull a code. I have had a draw down and amp test done on my battery and alternator and they are fine. Also it will go for months without doing it and then gives me headaches for a week and then goes away again... The head lights will go dim and bright, dim and bright as the battery light flickers. The battery amp gauge on the dash also goes up and down while the light flickers...
Any thoughts guys???
Any thoughts guys???
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From: Perry Georgia
I had the same thing happen with a 1977 Ford pickup. I found out that the connector going into the voltage regulator wasn't making a good connection. All I had to do was unplug the connector a few times and the problem would stop. The connector looked fine but for some reason, it just didn't like the way it was.
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From: Des Moines, Iowa
OK so i am back to the battery light problem... Same problem the dash and head lights all go dim and bright as the battery light flashes... I have checked the connections on/between the alternator, voltage regulator, starter relay... everything is looking good to me! So what do I check next???
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Des Moines, Iowa
I had a O'reileys and Auto Zone both do a draw down on the battery and test the output of the alternator and they tested fine... Does that cover me to check the alternator or should I still take it out and check the brushes??? Also I just added halogen fog lamps and have been towing mediums size trailers. If I replace the alternator do I need to get a higher output one or should I be ok with stock?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Des Moines, Iowa
it's a 1988, F-250, 300 I6, ZF-542. not sure on alternator size but thinking it is original spec. Not sure if it's been replaced or not.
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Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
If it is a stock setup the plug that plugs into the alternator is not a good one and goes bad very often. The plug has also been known to start a fire. You may want to replace this plug or goto a 3G alternator.
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Postmaster
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From: Des Moines, Iowa
Jeeze! that's good to know! is there a place that sells replacement plugs that are less likely to start a fire? If I go to a 3G does it come with it's own plug or do I still need to replace? Are they expensive?
Posting Guru
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From: Perry Georgia
I just converted my 1987 F250 Diesel to the 3g alternator. The alternator came out of a Taurus, I think it was a 93 model 130 amp alternator and the one that was standard for the F250 was a 70 or 75 amp. Also the high output alternator has an internal regulator so I bypassed the regulator that was originally in the truck. I left the wiring as it was originally including the regulator so if I get where i need a way to get going, I"ll just get the original alternator. I still have the original 75 amp alternator as backup.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
For a 3G I used a alternator from 1992 Ford E150 5.0 FI 95 Amp in my 1988.
Just ask the parts guy for an alternator for the above.
I also up the wire from the alternator to the starter solenoid to 8GA.
Just ask the parts guy for an alternator for the above.
I also up the wire from the alternator to the starter solenoid to 8GA.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
(edit)
Good advice subford!
You beat me to the punch, but I'd question that an 8 gauge wire can handle 130A.
Also it would be a good idea to install a fuse on that wire.
Good advice subford!
You beat me to the punch, but I'd question that an 8 gauge wire can handle 130A.
Also it would be a good idea to install a fuse on that wire.
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From: Des Moines, Iowa
Thanks guys! I will check into getting myself a 3G... I didn't have time to get to the truck last night, but was wondering if I will need to get a new voltage regulator if I change to the 3G? I think I have some 8ga wire laying around to upgrade the power line from the alternator...