Compressor kicks out at 20psi
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Compressor kicks out at 20psi
I'm trying to recharge my a/c (1995 F-150) but it won't seem to take the refrigerant. The compressor kicks on for ~2 seconds, gauge on low pressure side gets to ~20psi and the compressor kicks out. It will continue this over and over. I connected the recharge kit and tried to fill it for 20+ min but it never took any refrigerant and the a/c is barelly cool.
I'm guessing I need to bypass the LP switch? Anyone know where this is or have any better ideas?
I'm guessing I need to bypass the LP switch? Anyone know where this is or have any better ideas?
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: W. Wisc
It's doing what it's supposed to do - cut the compressor with low AC pressure. To bypass it temporarily to fill the system, unplug it (it's on the accumulator which is the tall cylinder usually near the firewall) and jumper the plug (the wire harness side).
I don't know your specific model year truck so I can't be sure where everything is located. Post a couple pics of your engine bay if you can't find it.
BTW if the system was open to the atmosphere, it really needs to have a vacuum drawn on it before filling. Plus filling goes much faster that way. But if you have the perpetual small leak that you can't find, then the jumper trick will help keep you cool for another year.
-Dave
I don't know your specific model year truck so I can't be sure where everything is located. Post a couple pics of your engine bay if you can't find it.
BTW if the system was open to the atmosphere, it really needs to have a vacuum drawn on it before filling. Plus filling goes much faster that way. But if you have the perpetual small leak that you can't find, then the jumper trick will help keep you cool for another year.
-Dave
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: St Louis
Sounds more like the valve on the can isn't opening.
When the valve is open, the gauge and the cycling switch both should see the pressure from the can. Doesn't sound like it's happening.
There is no need to bypass the cycling switch. The system will take in the refrigerant once everything else is working.
When the valve is open, the gauge and the cycling switch both should see the pressure from the can. Doesn't sound like it's happening.
There is no need to bypass the cycling switch. The system will take in the refrigerant once everything else is working.
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Thanks for the info guys!
I'm having some dificulty posting a pic, but there is a plug located on the canister. I think it has 3 wires though. I'll have to confirm.
When the compressor engages i can feel a pulse in the line going to the compressor, so something is happening.
projectSHO89, are you saying the valve on the can of R134a isn't opening or some other valve in the system?
I'm having some dificulty posting a pic, but there is a plug located on the canister. I think it has 3 wires though. I'll have to confirm.
When the compressor engages i can feel a pulse in the line going to the compressor, so something is happening.
projectSHO89, are you saying the valve on the can of R134a isn't opening or some other valve in the system?
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Just wanted to thank ya'll again for the help. Got it charged a minute ago and it's blowing COLD air. Turns out you were right projectSHO89, even though i had piered the can it wan't getting out. Backed the hose out 1/4 and the gauge pegged out (telling me the bottle was now open). Hooked it up to the truck and the rest is history. Thanks again guys!
