I've been making and using bio for over 5 years with NO problems in multipull diesels. If you don't produce a quality product you could hurt any diesel.

 

110k miles on straight used VO in my F350 - MANY of which are pulling my 10k lb 5ver all over the US for work (5ver is home away from home). Close to 40k miles on wife's Excursion, she commutes like 500 mi/wk to college. These are (2) of the best conversions anywhere. The F350 is DIY based on Vegistroke design and the Excursion is a 'SkySkiJason' modified V3 system from Frybrid. I heat and settle WVO to remove water and filter to 2 mics using fuel filters before the trucks.

Absolutely NO ISSUES whatsoever related to VO. I went 'over the top' with the wifes truck because I work out of town and do not need her to have any issues while I'm away. It is also done in such a way ANY tech can wrench on it without needing to know anything about the conversion. Considering I'm as far as 3000 miles from home and wife commutes 'over the mountain' (read: no cell service), reliability is of utmost importance. I stopped 'worrying' a looooong time ago!!

Don't expect this kind of performance from a 1/2 *** VO conversion (greasecrap, p-drive, etc) or from poor dewatering/filtering your fuel.

We also make B100 using a BioPro 190. The BioPro is alot like cheating though! 2-stage reaction (acid + base), triple wash, etc. and FULLY automatic!

 

Honestly, I've had to change my fuel filter more frequently...

 

I purchased my 2001 F350 new.
This year i ran 100% vo from May through September. I have not run less than 70% vo in a long time. I do have heat added to my fuel system and run it year round.

 

I have been running vo since 2003. Increased filter changes.

 

Very curious about this discussion. I just bought a very high mileage7.3 PSD and I'd love to do whatever I can to run on the most economical fuel that I possibly can. A large part of the reason I bought a diesel is so I can convert to run on cheap fuel be it WVO, WMO, Used ATF, or setting myself up to brew Bio. My main concern is the climate here. As I understand it B100 gels at a very low temperature. What are you guys seeing as a solution for cold climate use? My original thought was to set my truck up for SVO use, but I'm open to considering other options. I'm also really interested in what I can do to reduce my fuel costs while I save up the $$ to do whatever. Can I safely mix WMO or ATF with diesel until then? What mix ratio would you guys in colder climates suggest?

 

Filter it, filter it some more then filter it again. I would get some disgustingly dark veg oil and after filtering it was so clear you'd think it was new. I made a set up off of northerntools website. Pump, 2 filters inline. Worked pretty good for a cheaper set up.

 

As far as the mix, again it depends on the oil used. Best thing is to mix up different ratios, 10%, 20%, ... and set them outside. When one gels then you know the temp that it is good til..

 

I can only respond as a vo user.
First you must incorporate heat into your fuel system. I also agree with Rushmore X. Start with 10% vo to 90% diesel. Then 20% vo to 80% diesel..etc. Continue this trend until the truck starts running different-not as good. Select the highest vo% it ran good with and continue.

I adjust my % with temperature changes. Colder temperatures get lower % of vo.
I use three filters on my primary collection/settling/filtering tank and three more filters are on my truck.
A total of six filters being utilized before the "fuel" gets to the engine.

 

Just need to point out that WMO and WVO are two completely different "animals". With WVO you just need to filter the oil really well, dry/de-water it, heat it up (needs to be above 160F when it gets to the engine) and the motor should burn it as long as it's up to operating temperature. WMO = waste motor oil is a little more harmful to the engine. Even through a 1 micron filter there is going to be nasty little particalars in the oil/fuel you don't want going through the fuel side of your injectors. I haven't priced 7.3L PSD injectors...but I'm willing to bet they're in the same $250 a piece ball park as the sticks in my 6.0L. If you've got the money to experiment, then by all means go for it and tell us what you've found (not many folks are burning WMO). But you won't see me running used ATF, WMO or used hydraulic oil as a fuel through my motor.

If your going to convert the WVO to B100...it just depends on how cold it gets where you live as to how much you can run when it's cold. There's also a couple of fuel treatments (Power Service offers a B80 treatment) that can lower the gel point of the fuel. Though if your running a Vegistroke set-up...then fuel treatment is a mute point since their system heats the entire fuel system (designed for WVO/SVO) outside of the engine.

 

I had originally only considered converting my truck to run SVO or building a bio setup, but there are a couple of factors that have me questioning that. One is that most of the driving I do is fairly short distances (15-20 miles at a time). So as I understand it, I am going to be running my truck on pump fuel anyway since it has to warm up on pump fuel, then purge the lines before shutdown. The other issue as far as I am concerned, it that I really don't want to forfeit the space in the bed that would be occupied by the SVO tank. In that regard, I guess Bio makes more sense, but I'm not crazy about the setup taking up space in my shop either. Add to that the cost of the chemicals needed to brew the Bio, and the poor cold weather performance of Bio, and it doesn't sound like an appealing alternative either. I guess I just need to resign myself to the fact that either way I go, I am still going to need to buy some fuel either way I go.

Another thing I have considered, is that my engine is fairly high mileage, so not to say I want to trash it, but it's not like I am experimenting with a brand new truck. Yes, the injectors are spend, but how many tanks of essentially free or steeply discounted fuel do I have to burn before it pays for any repairs I would need to make on the truck?

Also, it was appealing to me in that I could mix some WMO or ATF with my fuel right now without making and modifications to my truck or spending any $$ out of pocket to get started. I really am on a shoestring budget, so the cost savings is a major factor for me.

I'm looking for personal feedback from anyone using an alternative fuel. I'm just trying to weigh my options...

 

This is a personal decision/commitment for each of us.

I only have one fuel tank. Read my signature. I wish you the best.

 

dn29626, I guess I am still considering Veggie my best option. Provided I find a good source for the oil, what in terms of $$ do you think it would take to burn the stuff in my truck? Not sure I can cough up the $1200-1600 it takes to buy one of the complete kits. I'm really curious about your setup though. I'd like to find an old tank out of a van or something that could be belly mounted to house my SVO so I don't give up any bed space. Any links or references you could send me would be most appreciated. Especially in regard to the hutch and harpoon mods. I am really trying to absorb as much as I can from those (like yourself) who have experience with this. I just want to make an informed decision.

It sounds to me that in order to go a similar route to yours, I need to purchase: a larger tank for my truck (both are 16 gal. units I think) a couple of 12V line heaters, the filter/water separator, and the filtering gear to filter and separate the SVO prior to dumping it into my truck. Anything else I am missing? What is the HOH you reference in your sig?

 

Build your own 'kit' for alot less. Hydraforce 3way valves are under $50ea. One valve selects tank that supplies to lift pump, one selects tank that fuel is returned to and I suggest a 3rd valve to 'loop' the return fuel back to supply valve instead of VO tank while driving (just return to VO tank during purge) - this increases VO heat by not 'wasting' it back to the tank.

HOH - hose-on-hose is running your fuel line next to heater hoses. Most wrap insulation around the 'bundle' to help with heat exchange.

HIH or TIH is a much, much more effective option (and actually costs LESS). By using 1/2" tee's and easily modified compression fittings, we run aluminum fuel line inside 3/4" heater hose and get a very effective heat exchange.

Ya still need some kind of heated fuel pick-up for your (aluminum) VO tank. A Hot Fox heated pick-up is prolly adequate for most oils in most climates. These units can melt a 'carrot' of oil and suck air in really viscous oils (high fats/PHO) in cold climates. Nothing beats the Frybrid in-tank HE!

TIH and a 16 plate FPHE flat plate heat exchanger ($100ish) is proven capable of the required 160* plus VO to the engine within a few miles.

All that said, I still think the Frybrid system is worth EVERY PENNY. The fact is, if ya drive much - you always get yer money back. Their system truly is the Cadillac. Not only will it work, they use the best hose clamps, fittings, etc you can get. Nobody is ever disappointed with the quality...

The short-trip concern is legitimate. Even with switching valves very close to IP, I'd guess you'll send at least a quart of diesel to the VO tank when you purge. So if ya got 20mpg (driving easy), then thats like 5miles worth of diesel. In addition to that, it takes prolly 20 miles to see 'ideal' engine and VO temps - so you'd be continuously running sub-par temps. I think an adequate conversion can handle some of this, but I feel strongly that diesels need to WORK and the harder they work while running VO, the better they seem to do.

Btw, my F350 is up to 130k greasy miles and the Excursion has about 80k on the high-cholesterol stuff.

I would never 'blend' VO with diesel. The issues include separation in the diesel tank resulting in cold starts on straight VO and long-term polymerization of the VO on all the carbon steel surfaces in the fuel system.

 

Remeber WVO is a hobbie and a comitment.

1. Your going to have no Diesel if you don't make it.

2. And if you tell the place you will pick up there WVO you better pick up there WVO.

Plus if you use is less then what your production run will be what are your plans for the excess?

I thought about it a few years ago, and while it does work I would of been to much of a hobbie for me.