Thanks Dave that looks good. I'm not the best with electrics. Can you let me know which 3g parts that I can use to convert the truck over. Keep in mind I can't just go down to the junk yard and get these parts. I will have to find a supplier that ships them to Australia. Or I may be able to get some of these parts next year when I get over there.

 

Yes, next year! Perhaps you can create a list that we can fill before you come? That 1G will surely work until then.

 

I think I have that list as well.
Will check and get it posted asap.
Dave ----

 

That sounds great guys that's why this is such a great forum with so much knowledge and people that will help at the drop of a hat.

 

Oz - Does your truck have an ammeter or idiot light? That changes the wiring a bit.

 

I think its got a fuel and temp gauge and the other are lights from memory. Why is that Gary

 

In the diagram above you see how the ammeter is disconnected. But you don't have the ammeter, so you actually have fewer changes. And, done correctly, you'll have the better setup as you will have a red light to get your attention should the alternator fail. But with an ammeter you either have a dead gauge or you can convert it to a voltmeter and then add some wiring to make it work.

 

I'm happy just to keep the light

 

Good! I've even looked at what it would take to put the light in a cluster with a tach.

 

I bought a cluster when I was in LA from a junk yard but then I read one of the posts on this forum, it said that you had to get the same year model one for it to work so it's likely the one I bought won't work without a heap of wiring changes. It may be good for parts - any way, it was only $30 in LA in comparison to the asking price of $200+ over here.

 

The early 1980 trucks were wired differently than the late 1980 through 1986 trucks. But, a truck wired for idiot lights doesn't have the right wires nor connector to work with a gauge cluster. It can be done, but it won't be easy.

 

This is just a little of what I have saved for when I do this swap.




The 3G comes in two case diameters,135mm (95A, 4 hole) and 148mm (130A, 2 hole)

Both sizes come in a few mounting styles.
7" C-C pivot (3.0V-6)
8.25" C-C pivot (3.8V-6)
Side mount
Odd front 'V' mount. (for Mod motors I think)

I made the mistake before -but now know- that the 4.9 mount takes the8.25" C-C spacing.
Look for one from a '90-'93 3.8l V6 Taurus/Sable.

You will need:
A new charge cable with 175A fuse inline
To tap the adjuster ear of your new alternator to 3/8-16
To modify your current regulator plug as shown at the bottom of post #41
Change over to your current V-belt pulley. (add a shim washer so it doesn't rubthe case)


I got this from Amazon;

Models:

Ford Car & Lt Trk

1990 Taurus 3.8L V6, Optional 130 Amp Unit, w/Internal Regulator
1991 Taurus 3.8L V6, Stanard 130 Amp Unit
1992 Taurus 3.8L V6, Stanard 130 Amp Unit
1993 Taurus 3.8L V6, Stanard 130 Amp Unit

1995 Windstar 3.8L V6, Early 1995

Lincoln Car & Lt Trk

1991 Continental 3.8L V6, 130 Amp Unit, w/Internal Regulator
1992 Continental 3.8L V6, 130 Amp Unit, w/Internal Regulator
1993 Continental 3.8L V6, 130 Amp Unit, w/Internal Regulator
1994 Continental 3.8L V6, 130 Amp Unit, w/Internal Regulator

Mercury Car & Lt Trk

1990 Sable 3.8L V6, Optional 130 Amp Unit, w/Internal Regulator
1991 Sable 3.8L V6, Stanard 130 Amp Unit
1992 Sable 3.8L V6, Stanard 130 Amp Unit
1993 Sable 3.8L V6, Stanard 130 Amp Unit

Replaces:

AC Delco
321-1305, 334-2009

Bosch Newman
AL7508N

Denso First Time Fit
210-5209, 210-5211

Ford
F0DF-10300-BA, F0DU-10300-BB,
F0DU-10300-BC, F0DZ-10346-B,
F0DZ-10346-C, F0DZ-10346-E,
F0PU-10346-AD, F58U-10300-AA

Ford Engineering
F0DF-BA, F0DU-BB,
F0DU-BC, F58U-AA

Motorcraft
GL-278, GL-301, GL-310
Dave ----

 

Dave is this for the I6 300 engine? will this alternator work with a 302 v8 engine.

 

Why a 175A in-line fuse for a 130A alternator?

What size wire (AWG) are you using for alternator to battery? There seems to be some differences on the web. Some of the on-line charts and calculators say 10GA is enough, others say to use 2GA (this is for cable runs under 4 ft.).

Example of the confusion: Wire gauge - amp ratings chart help! - Expedition Portal!

 

I believe it will bolt in place of the 1G & 2G ALT's on any motor.

I know of someone who has done this on a six and sure I have seen others do it on v8's.

Don't know why on the fuse? Maybe because it is fast blow and if you did a 130a fuse it would blow on a spike like just after a long crank to start?

On wire I say bigger is better.
Besides they use 10ga on the 60a ALT why risk 130a going thru same size wire?

Just so everyone knows I have not done this swap yet.
My project truck had the ALT wired all half azzed and the parts truck wiring is different than the ALT from the project truck.
So if I have to get an ALT might as well go big and wire it right.
Dave - - - -