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I started tearing down my engine to get to the intake plenums on the 94 yesterday and ran into a slight snag that I don't remember running into before. I have to pull the turbo to get to a couple of the bolts. My 97 looks like it has plenty of room to get to them with the turbo on. Go figure.
Anyway, since I have to pull the turbo, I'm gong to put on a downpipe. What brand do you all prefer the best? Hopefully it's not too expensive.
Also I'm going to reseal all my injectors and the IPR while I'm down there.
Anything else I should do while the top of the engine is apart?
This thing better run a lot stronger when I am done. I wasn't planning to spend this much money so it's going to have to sit most of the month waiting on parts.
You don't have to pull the turbo to get the intakes off. The intake is notched on the backside of that one bolt. Loosen the bolt with a box or open end wrench then pry the intake up and away. Remember to use the Ford/IH gray silicone when puting the intake back on, reg RTV won't hold.
Downpipes are around $100. I got a MBRP 3" for my one truck and it was a total piece of crap, I sent it back. Elbow was welded on backwards, had the wrong turbo flange, too. I then got a more expensive Grand Rock pipe that is very nicely made, fits perfect, got it from www.DPPPower.com, for around $120 I think, shipped.
There are actually 3 bolts I can't get out. One on the top (second from rear) and two rear ones on bottom. The top one comes halfway up on it's threads and hits the turbo. It's a lot tighter in there than on the 97. They look like the same turbo but maybe the pedastal is shorter or something is all I can figure. We're getting some MUCH needed rain right now or else I'd go look again and post a picture.
Are there any mods I can do to the turbo on a 94 to make it work better while it is off? It turns fine and compressor wheel is good. I thought about at least resealing the compressor half of it since there had been oil leaking around the mating surfaces of it. I fixed that with the ccv mod.
I have only ever seen about 13 or 14 max boost on it before. Lately it's hard to get above 10.
X2 on the notch. Here I have a pic of some billet intakes but you will get the picture. One bolt is slotted so you just need to loosen it enough to get a gasket scraper under there to break it loose. Be careful they bend easily. I have 2 spares if you mess one up.
The pass side manifold just fell off after I took out the bolts. The other one lifted up when I was fighting one of the bolts by the turbo. I still don't have that one off. Three bolts just won't come out. It's slottted on the one but not the other two.
i think that maybe the '94's and the '95's you had to take off the turbo to do the intakes for some reason. i will look at mine and see if it looks like i need to pull the turbo to change that manifold. i'm sure i do though..
May I kindly ask why you need to use the grey RTV silicone? Cause I knwo someone once said that all it has is 'magical powers' and I know I use blue RTV where alot of guys use ford grey, so couldn't you jst use blue? Cause I would like to get a set of those big intake plumes.
i think it's b/c regular RTV messes with the detergents in diesel oil and allows the oil to foam up or something. the diesel grey that ford uses is supposed to be special stuff that will not foam the oil. they use it on anything that comes in contact with the oil.. not to mention that stuff is pretty dang strong considering it is RTV!!! ever tried to get an oil pan off our truck??
Reg RTV on the intake won't mess with the oil foaming. Nothing comes in contact with it but air. But the reg RTV won't hold the psi like the super sticky Ford/IH gray.
If you work on these motors at all, you really should have that gray silicone and use it for everything. IH did for a reason. I don't own stock in the company or anything, I've learned my lessons what works and what doesn't and I prefer to pay a little more and only do the job once...
Reg RTV on the intake won't mess with the oil foaming. Nothing comes in contact with it but air. But the reg RTV won't hold the psi like the super sticky Ford/IH gray.
If you work on these motors at all, you really should have that gray silicone and use it for everything. IH did for a reason. I don't own stock in the company or anything, I've learned my lessons what works and what doesn't and I prefer to pay a little more and only do the job once...
agreed!!! oil will com in contact there if they haven't done the CCV mod. haha. all sorts of oil gets thrown down that intake. or at least it did on my truck. LoL.
X2 on the notch. Here I have a pic of some billet intakes but you will get the picture. One bolt is slotted so you just need to loosen it enough to get a gasket scraper under there to break it loose. Be careful they bend easily. I have 2 spares if you mess one up.
Beans Diesel Preformance. Billet aluminum.
You will have to alter the fuel return line onthe passenger side. I believe one or two 45° fittings will fix it right up.