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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 10:34 PM
  #1  
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Engine ID

I know Ford didn't do the matching numbers like Chevrolet, so is there any way to know I have the original motor in my 1966 F250? The VIN decoder claims the original engine to be:

1V - 300cid, 150 HP, 3600 RPM

The transmission I'm not sure, but the gear shift pattern is:

1 3 R
2 4

Pictures of the engine:

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/100_0783.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/100_0784.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/100_0785.jpg

I am looking for a new clutch for this truck, and I want to make sure I get the right stuff ordered. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys!
 
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jdbjicase
I know Ford didn't do the matching numbers like Chevrolet, so is there any way to know I have the original motor in my 1966 F250? The VIN decoder claims the original engine to be:

1V - 300cid, 150 HP, 3600 RPM

The transmission I'm not sure, but the gear shift pattern is:

1 3 R
2 4

I am looking for a new clutch for this truck, and I want to make sure I get the right stuff ordered. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys!
The engine code is the 4th digit of the VIN.

1966: A = 240 I-6 // B = 300 I-6.

1965/72 F100/350's w/a 300 I-6 use an 11" clutch.

Some 1965/72 F100/350's w/a 240 I-6 use a 10" clutch, some use the same 11" clutch as the 300.

The throwout and pilot bearings are the same 240/300.

It's impossible to tell a 240 from a 300 by looking at them, as both engines look identical.

The casting number on the block is the same for both the 240/300 thru 1974.

240 B&S: 4.00" x 3.18" // 300 B&S: 4.00" x 3.98"

There were two different 4 speed transmissions: Warner T-18 (reverse is up towards the dash). New Process 435 (reverse is down, back towards the seat).

The New Process 435 is far more common.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 08:35 AM
  #3  
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Sounds like it's time to pull a sparkplug and insert a stiff wire into the hole. Then while turning the engine over BY HAND, measure the depth of the stroke on the wire by marking it when the piston is at the top and bottom of its stroke travel. Then compare that measurement with the data supplied by Bill to determine which I-6 it is.

According to your shift pattern 'diagram' and the description provided by Bill, it seems to have a T-18 4speed transmission.

Give us the first five digits/letters of your VIN# so we can confirm the measurement to the VIN or determine if it's been changed since OE........

BarnieTrk
 
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 08:54 PM
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The first 5 digits are F25BL. Far as I know the only thing that was replaced when this truck was brought back from AZ was the gas tank since the cap was missing and the original was full of sand. Hopefully it is the original engine, for history's sake. Ha ha.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jdbjicase
The first 5 digits are F25BL.
Looks like they all match up to what we believe it has now:
F25 = F-250 , 2 wheel drive
B = I-300 6 cylinder engine
L = Assembled at the Michigan Truck Plant, located in Wayne, Michigan, just southWest of Detroit.
Don't see too many trucks assembled at the Michigan Truck Plant anymore, as many of them have been eaten away to dust from 40+ years of road salt!

So, is it just a 240 air cleaner or was the original 300 pulled out and the whole 240 engine stuck in between the fenders?
I guess you will still need to pull a sparkplug and do the "stroke check" so you'll know what you have.....

Good Luck!
BarnieTrk
 
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by BarnieTrk
Looks like they all match up to what we believe it has now:
F25 = F-250 , 2 wheel drive
B = I-300 6 cylinder engine
L = Assembled at the Michigan Truck Plant, located in Wayne, Michigan, just southWest of Detroit.
Don't see too many trucks assembled at the Michigan Truck Plant anymore, as many of them have been eaten away to dust from 40+ years of road salt!

So, is it just a 240 air cleaner or was the original 300 pulled out and the whole 240 engine stuck in between the fenders?
I guess you will still need to pull a sparkplug and do the "stroke check" so you'll know what you have.....

Good Luck!
BarnieTrk

Thanks BarnieTrk. I'll have to do that next time I'm home. I'm in CA right now and the truck is in IL. The only thing I know for sure is my grandma inherited it from her brother when he passed away. He was living in AZ or CA before that. It came back to IL, and she passed it on to her grandkids. Soon after the clutch went out. Been in a shed ever since. Never seen an IL winter outside, at least that I know of. Hopefully I can get it fixed in July so I can take it to Western IL Threshers again.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 11:54 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
The engine code is the 4th digit of the VIN.

1966: A = 240 I-6 // B = 300 I-6.

1965/72 F100/350's w/a 300 I-6 use an 11" clutch.

Some 1965/72 F100/350's w/a 240 I-6 use a 10" clutch, some use the same 11" clutch as the 300.

Bill,
Does that mean that either clutch will work for either engine?
It sounds like even after our OP determines which engine he has, he'll still have to wait to buy parts until after he gets into the bellhousing and actually measures which clutch he has. Would the 300 and 240 flywheel likely be drilled & tapped for the 10" and 11" pressure plate/ clutch pack? If so, then he could just bring either one for the replacement....

The throwout and pilot bearings are the same 240/300.


It's impossible to tell a 240 from a 300 by looking at them, as both engines look identical.

The casting number on the block is the same for both the 240/300 thru 1974.

240 B&S: 4.00" x 3.18" // 300 B&S: 4.00" x 3.98"

There were two different 4 speed transmissions: Warner T-18 (reverse is up towards the dash). New Process 435 (reverse is down, back towards the seat).

The New Process 435 is far more common.
BarnieTrk
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
1965/72 F100/350's w/a 300 I-6 use an 11" clutch.

Some 1965/72 F100/350's w/a 240 I-6 use a 10" clutch, some use the same 11" clutch as the 300.
C8TZ6375A .. Flywheel / Use with a 10" clutch / (6) 5/16" -18 pressure plate attaching holes on a 11 3/8" bolt circle.

Fits: 1965/72 F100/350 240 I-6 with a 10" clutch.
------------------------------------------------
C5TZ6375N .. Flywheel / Use with a 11" clutch / (6) 5/16" -18 pressure plate attaching holes on a 12 3/8" bolt circle.

Fits: 1965/72 F100/350 240 I-6 with a 11" clutch / 1965/72 F100/350 300 I-6.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 07:48 AM
  #9  
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Hmmmmm,,,,, so it looks like jdbjicase will have to get inside to see what he has before he can buy parts.
Maybe if jdbjicase's auto parts store will work with him, he could order BOTH, the 10" and the 11" and then simply return the one that he doesn't need/use.

I know my local parts store WILL NOT do this, because they don't stock parts for these old trucks and so they will charge me a re-stocking fee at the least or a "no returns on special-order parts" on most.

Good Luck, jdbjicase. Keep us posted on your progress!

BarnieTrk
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 10:28 PM
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Thanks for all the help guys. It might take a while before I can tear it apart. Like I mentioned earlier, I'm stationed in CA on military duty, and the earliest I will probably be home is December. I'm just trying to get everything figured out so when I can get home to work on it I'll know exactly where I'm going with it and I can try to get everything done really quick, without all the guesswork.

On a sidenote, what's the best thing to do if you've got mice living in the truck? Last time I looked at it the cab smelled like something lived (and died) in it. Not looking forward to that part.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jdbjicase

On a sidenote, what's the best thing to do if you've got mice living in the truck? Last time I looked at it the cab smelled like something lived (and died) in it. Not looking forward to that part.
Are you sure that the smell isn't bad gas? I just bought a 66 that was sitting for years. I cleared the whole cab out and found nothing that justified the smell. I put tape over the gas filler tube, (no gas cap), and the smell disappeared in a matter of minutes. Another thing I did, the seats remove fairly easy, and the carpet in mine needed to be replaced anyway. So I cleared out the cab and pressure washed the whole inside. It smells much better now. If that doesn't do it , it is the seat.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 10:40 PM
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I'm pretty sure they're living in the seat, because that's the kind of luck I have. Hopefully I can get my hands on enough little trees to keep the stink down until I can afford to have it reupholstered.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jdbjicase
I'm pretty sure they're living in the seat, because that's the kind of luck I have. Hopefully I can get my hands on enough little trees to keep the stink down until I can afford to have it reupholstered.
I found a seat from a 79 and it lines up on the holes and everything. It only cost me $10.00
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 11:04 PM
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Not a bad deal. If I did that it would be a quick fix. I'd rather get the original redone so I can keep as much of the truck original as possible. Where did you find such a great deal?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 11:06 PM
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Moron parting out a truck. I called and he said $10.00. I went and looked at the seat. The only difference I could tell between it and the original is the 79 has a latch that holds it back. Other than that they are the same.
 
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