dana 60 rear axle disc brakes
#31
09-04-2009, 07:33 PM
The calipers I use are AutoZone part number C503's and they have a mounting measurement of 7 inches CL to CL.
These use brake pad number MKD52S
Same one I use for the 9inch, as well as the sterling disc brake swaps
#32
12-26-2009, 05:19 AM
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15" rims
If I missed the info in this post I apologize.
Does anyone know if when using chevy 3/4 calipers and rotors, can I use my 15" 8 lug rims? Do I have to grind them down?
Believe it or not I'm using 15" rims on the dual piston caliper 60 front !! Had to do a little grinding though!
Thanks in advance!
Does anyone know if when using chevy 3/4 calipers and rotors, can I use my 15" 8 lug rims? Do I have to grind them down?
Believe it or not I'm using 15" rims on the dual piston caliper 60 front !! Had to do a little grinding though!
Thanks in advance!
#33
04-11-2011, 11:50 PM
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#34
04-12-2011, 05:16 AM
Logistics Pro
They are both good to use some prefer the weld on ones over the bolted for strength issues also an advantage of the weld on type versus the bolt on the weld ons you can mount any position you want the caliper to sit this is good for those who need to turn there pinion angle up for better driveline angles you can keep the caliper bleeder at the highest point on the caliper for ease of bleeding where as using the bolt on you don't have much choice what the caliper angle is
#35
07-28-2014, 01:10 AM
14B?
I have a 72f250 that I want to do disc brakes all around. 12b? Do you remember what website used to buy those brackets?
There is no reason to shop for brake parts at the salvage yard. You never know what you will get and the chebby parts are so cheap you can buy them new for next to nothing.
You will need a caliper bracket. These are available from the aftermarket, check e-bay, or just use your favorite search engine and you should find thousands. If you use the 14B remember that there are different spindle and hub configurations, as well as a SRW cab and chassis axle, and each uses a slightly different bracket.
Fortunately all of them use the same rotor and caliper configuration, and so far I have been succesful with Autozone.
Start with a 77 or so K20 front rotor. You will need two. (about 30 bucks each)
Then purchase the same caliper for the same application. You will also need two (about 15 bucks each, plus a minimal core charge)
Brake pads (about 13 bucks for a complete set)
Front rubber brake lines for same application. (about 7 bucks each)
Misc line and fittings to meet the rubber lines to the single supply line. (cost can vary based upon material, still minimal)
Two sets of caliper bolts also avialable in the help section at autozone (about 16 bucks for all 4)
Thats it.
Start with some parts:
Remove the hub from the axle, and pound the studs out.
Then remove the drum and replace with rotor and press the studs back in. Bolt the brackets to the axle after the backing plates and old hardware is removed.
Install the hub and rotor. Load the caliper, and install it to the bracket.
Viola, you have disc brakes.
Slide the axle back in, and plumb the lines. Rubber lines can be substituted for just about any stainless line as long as it is not rigid. You will need some flex so you dont have to remove the hard line when you replace the pads in the future. Front rubber lines are perfect. If you ever have to replace anything, you will have off the shelf parts available accross the country.
You will need a caliper bracket. These are available from the aftermarket, check e-bay, or just use your favorite search engine and you should find thousands. If you use the 14B remember that there are different spindle and hub configurations, as well as a SRW cab and chassis axle, and each uses a slightly different bracket.
Fortunately all of them use the same rotor and caliper configuration, and so far I have been succesful with Autozone.
Start with a 77 or so K20 front rotor. You will need two. (about 30 bucks each)
Then purchase the same caliper for the same application. You will also need two (about 15 bucks each, plus a minimal core charge)
Brake pads (about 13 bucks for a complete set)
Front rubber brake lines for same application. (about 7 bucks each)
Misc line and fittings to meet the rubber lines to the single supply line. (cost can vary based upon material, still minimal)
Two sets of caliper bolts also avialable in the help section at autozone (about 16 bucks for all 4)
Thats it.
Start with some parts:
Remove the hub from the axle, and pound the studs out.
Then remove the drum and replace with rotor and press the studs back in. Bolt the brackets to the axle after the backing plates and old hardware is removed.
Install the hub and rotor. Load the caliper, and install it to the bracket.
Viola, you have disc brakes.
Slide the axle back in, and plumb the lines. Rubber lines can be substituted for just about any stainless line as long as it is not rigid. You will need some flex so you dont have to remove the hard line when you replace the pads in the future. Front rubber lines are perfect. If you ever have to replace anything, you will have off the shelf parts available accross the country.
#36
07-28-2014, 07:46 AM
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You won't get a response, he hasn't been on here in several years. I bought a pair of brackets off eBay 2002 to do this swap, but there doesn't seem to be any listed on there anymore. However, there are several sites that do offer them. Blackbirds Custom Trucks trucks is a common one. Great Lakes Off Road and Cut Throat Off Road have them also. It doesn't really matter where you buy them from, there all pretty much the same.
#42
04-15-2016, 01:36 PM
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#43
04-15-2016, 06:27 PM
#44
09-30-2016, 01:39 PM
I know this thread is old and keeps getting revived, but a rear disc swap is interesting to me.
I've got a 1979 F250 4x4 with full floating D60 rear. Some of the earlier posts almost suggest that the swap to rear disc brakes is a bolt on application with zero welding required if the proper brackets for the caliper are used.
Is that true?
I've got a 1979 F250 4x4 with full floating D60 rear. Some of the earlier posts almost suggest that the swap to rear disc brakes is a bolt on application with zero welding required if the proper brackets for the caliper are used.
Is that true?
