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My first time I have some precise symptoms from my 6.0. If it is cold it will not accelerate pass 2500--3500 rpm with more smoke-haze than normal. After it warms up everthing seems fine. The truck has over 100,000 miles on it I ave put only 7000 miles on it. I have serviced it. The truck is loaded at 10,500 lbs + at all times> Any ideas would be a great help as I work out of this truck 5-6 days aweek. and really depend on it Thanks In advance
If it is cold it will not accelerate pass 2500--3500 rpm with more smoke-haze than normal. After it warms up everthing seems fine.
If you really need this truck for a long time, and you don't want to spend time and money at the shops a lot, you should just be satisfied keeping the RPM under 2k while the engine is cold..... Cold oil is really hard on your injectors, cold oil in tranny, etc. It's not a gasser.
When I just wake up in the morning, before I hit the b.room and have my coffee, I don't wanna accelerate pass 3.5k either...
Thanks for reply it's apparent that I did not give enough info. The engine is really not that cold I drive about 3/4 of a mile on a gravel road then turn on to a paved road an have to climb a hill the engine just really does not seem right. Sometimes during the day if I stop for awhile it will act the same way. I am talking about out side temps. between 75-80 degrees in the morning and above 90 after lunch. I have been a heavy equipment and heavy truck mech. for 35 years I have work on a lot of 7.3's. My truck I have now is a 6.0 and I intend on having it for sometime and I am sure I know how to care for it. I just thought someone might have had this problem also. anyway thanks again for the reply.
I have been a heavy equipment and heavy truck mech. for 35 years I have work on a lot of 7.3's. My truck I have now is a 6.0 and I intend on having it for sometime and I am sure I know how to care for it.
No offense, but you really cannot apply what you know from past diesel engines even up to the 7.3 with regard to the 6.0. If you do, you'll have issues with it, I can promise you that. Alot of issues are caused by people that didn't change their habits to cater to the new diesel engines(starting with the 6.0) and that has added to alot of problems on an engine that has some design flaws already.
Given the ambient temps you gave and the little driving that you've done, your EOT isn't up to temp. Don't go by the ECT gauge in the cluster, you'll have a good ten minutes of street driving(roads that are up 55 mph, as opposed to highway speeds) after the stock ECT gauge reads temp in most instances, sometimes longer. It's shorter for me more then most due to my truck specifically and the engine programming that I'm running.
Install at minimum either an ECT or EOT gauge especially if it spends alot of time hauling(mine does and even heavier loads then what you've mentioned), I would actually do both, and wait until "they" tell you the engine is warmed up. If you haul like you've mentioned at all times before it has time to get up to temp, you run a good chance of finding out some of those design flaws first hand.
No offense, but you really cannot apply what you know from past diesel engines even up to the 7.3 with regard to the 6.0. If you do, you'll have issues with it, I can promise you that. Alot of issues are caused by people that didn't change their habits to cater to the new diesel engines(starting with the 6.0) and that has added to alot of problems on an engine that has some design flaws already.
Given the ambient temps you gave and the little driving that you've done, your EOT isn't up to temp. Don't go by the ECT gauge in the cluster, you'll have a good ten minutes of street driving(roads that are up 55 mph, as opposed to highway speeds) after the stock ECT gauge reads temp in most instances, sometimes longer. It's shorter for me more then most due to my truck specifically and the engine programming that I'm running.
Install at minimum either an ECT or EOT gauge especially if it spends alot of time hauling(mine does and even heavier loads then what you've mentioned), I would actually do both, and wait until "they" tell you the engine is warmed up. If you haul like you've mentioned at all times before it has time to get up to temp, you run a good chance of finding out some of those design flaws first hand.
+1 on what thesae guys are telling you. I am afriad with the discription of the "haze" you described you may already be experiencing some of those symptoms. You may have a EGR cooler leaking into your exhaust.
I also forgot to add that 7k on an oil change is too long for something that is always hooked up to a trailer that is said to be over 10k. At max I would do 5k between changes on a good synthetic oil. These are actually high "performance" diesel engines and have to be maintained as such. Unless I read that wrong and you were just saying that within that 7k sometime you had serviced it, hard to tell.
Thanks for all the info . I did not mean to say that I was treating or maintaining My 6.0 liter the same as a 7.3 It's just where I worked for awhile They had lots of 7.3's that I worked on and several 6.0's from 2003 thru 2008 that we sent to dealership for all repairs. So I have no knowledge of working on 6.0. I had just noticed the power problem a few times and was worried that something might be fixing to go. But as you said I really need to let it warm up. Get some gauges and use syn. oil I guess leaving it plugged up this winter is a no brainer. I have been trying to read everthing I can on this forum for last 2 days. I have really found a lot of useful info. How about some info on egr delete kits and procedure for 2003?
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