No brake lights
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No brake lights
Folks,
My 94 Explorer has no brake lights. I changed out all bulbs and then replaced the brake switch that fits on the brake pedal. Still no brake lights.
I did not check the fuse because the manual says the flasher and brake lights are on the same fuse and the flasher works just fine.
I understand that it could be a wiring problem - but that is starting to get beyond me. Anyone have any logical next step to take to remedy this problem would be most appreciated. Maybe something simple I'm missing. Many thanks.
My 94 Explorer has no brake lights. I changed out all bulbs and then replaced the brake switch that fits on the brake pedal. Still no brake lights.
I did not check the fuse because the manual says the flasher and brake lights are on the same fuse and the flasher works just fine.
I understand that it could be a wiring problem - but that is starting to get beyond me. Anyone have any logical next step to take to remedy this problem would be most appreciated. Maybe something simple I'm missing. Many thanks.
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completed my meter testing and found that all the wiring is fine. I even checked the new brake pedal switch to make sure it worked.
What I determined is that the brake pedal switch is "not" activating when I press on the brake pedal - no matter how hard I push. I test both the old brake switch and the new one and both work - so the problem with the new one not activating is not my installation; rather some other factor.
I am quite relived to know that it is a mechanical problem and that my wiring is all good. I had to stop messing with it because I've got a severe neck cramp from working in that awkward position. Now - if I can only figure out why pressing the brake pedal doesn't activate the switch
What I determined is that the brake pedal switch is "not" activating when I press on the brake pedal - no matter how hard I push. I test both the old brake switch and the new one and both work - so the problem with the new one not activating is not my installation; rather some other factor.
I am quite relived to know that it is a mechanical problem and that my wiring is all good. I had to stop messing with it because I've got a severe neck cramp from working in that awkward position. Now - if I can only figure out why pressing the brake pedal doesn't activate the switch
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Does the plunger of the switch move when pressing and releasing the brake pedal? Did you use the continuity check to test the switch or did you check for voltage in to and out of the switch? If voltage, did you try measuring the input voltage to the switch when pressing on the pedal? If there is corrosion or a very poor connection in the circuit, the high impedance of the multimeter will not load the circuit enough to show a low voltage. However, when the circuit is loaded more heavily, like by a light bulb, the voltage will drop significantly as the current demand increases.
Does your Explorer happen to have aftermarket trailer wiring installed? Scotch-loc and similar connectors are notorious for causing wiring to corrode and tail lights to stop working. They were never intended to be used in exterior applications without being completely sealed from the environment. Electrical tape often doesn't completely seal them.
-Rod
Does your Explorer happen to have aftermarket trailer wiring installed? Scotch-loc and similar connectors are notorious for causing wiring to corrode and tail lights to stop working. They were never intended to be used in exterior applications without being completely sealed from the environment. Electrical tape often doesn't completely seal them.
-Rod
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Rod, the brake lights come on when I activate the brake pedal switch by hand - it is not a wiring poblem, or voltage problem. It appears to mechanical in that for some reasong the brake pedal action doesn't push the switch hard enough to activate.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
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UPDATE - RESOLVED:
Traced the problem electrically to the brake pedal switch. Installed new switch - didn't work. After many hours of making sure it was installed correctly and doing more wiring checks, decided it may be a problem with the "fit" of the new switch since it tested OK on the meter. The pedal was not depressing the switch enough to reliably trigger on/off.
I didn't know if it was the switch itself or perhaps the push rod from the master cyclinder was worn. I did something I don't normally do - I bought the genuine Ford swtich and installed it. Work perfect now. Done deal.
Traced the problem electrically to the brake pedal switch. Installed new switch - didn't work. After many hours of making sure it was installed correctly and doing more wiring checks, decided it may be a problem with the "fit" of the new switch since it tested OK on the meter. The pedal was not depressing the switch enough to reliably trigger on/off.
I didn't know if it was the switch itself or perhaps the push rod from the master cyclinder was worn. I did something I don't normally do - I bought the genuine Ford swtich and installed it. Work perfect now. Done deal.
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