I was wondering the same thing, would have thought his problem be a done deal long ago.

I was surprised to find this thread still active and yet more surprised to find he was right back to square one after the wire repairs for the O2 sensor.

Must be something wasn't done right in that repair, worked for what? a couple weeks then quit?

 

I think he is restin up from christmas and rasin some funds to continue the repair of the timing chain. That was back in januaray. I accidently replied to a year or 2 old thread thinkin it was this one. he replied stating he was trying to squirrel away some repair funds to continue the quest.

 

Hey for all us folks out there curious about Todd and his truck problem. He replied to another thread and said he had been too busy with the snow, remodling the house, and needing to fix the car.. The truck is on the back burner for now.

 

Yeap that's it. I replyed to Fuel Issues 2. I got a notification that gpedens replied to my thread and I was curious what happened that it got renamed. Oh well, all is good. I guess the original is still here. I'm sorry I haven't replied for a bit. You right - I am a big hunter so from October thru mid January I was hunting and butchering. Then we had Christmas, the snow and remodeling the house. I am however caught up and ready to jump back in to it. I do, however, have to swap motors in my daughters Neon before getting back to the truck. All is well, sometimes you just need to take a break and let things cool down. I worked on that truck for months on end and just got discouraged that I wasn't able to find the problem. Reply anytime, I enjoy chating with you guys.

Have a great day everyone, Todd

 

Hello to all,

WOW has it really been two months since my last reply. Oh well, I'm ready to carry on with the truck. That is after I replaced the motor in the Neon and then rebuilt the tranny two weeks later. I told my daught5er no more.

I have a couple of question and or thoughts about the truck.

1. If, and I haven't checked it myself yet - the timing has 10 degrees of
slack - will that cause the motor to shut off and then come right back
on causing bucking? I'm just not convinced that this issue would cause
the whole motor to shut off. It more seems like an electrical problem.

2. Could there be a short in the ignition somewhere? Like the ignition
switch itself? It does seem like the motor is loosing power and shutting
off as if you were turning it off with the key while it is still in drive and
then turning it back on causing a buck when electric is restored.

I know that 10 degrees of slack will make it run like crap but will this shut the motor off then back on? Is it possable to have that much slack in only 19000 miles? I will check it tonight myself.

Any comments and or questions are welcome. I hope everyone is doing great. It's time to fix it or send it to the river. I need a truck.

Thanks, Todd

 

Hey Kart18,
I have a surging, bucking hessitation problem too with my 1986 302CID fuel injected HEAP engine but from what you are discribing yours just shut off completly right?

Mine will first loose power, than surge as if im running on two cylinders than I'll hear buckfire coming from the air filter housing & eventually the engine will shut off on me ESPECIALLY WHEN THE WHEATHER IS HOT!!!
I recently found that my timing was SOME HOW at 0 degrees when it should be at 10 degrees BTDC so, my mechanic friend adjusted it back to 10 deg BTDC but the engine started to miss & than it shut off so, he adjusted it down to about 8 deg BTDC & it seemed that it solved the problem but, no luck it started acting up again, so now some how he was able to readjust it back to 10 degrees BTDC this time without the engine cutting off after the adjustment....Go figure...

What I would suggest to you is that you check & make sure that the bolt that locks the distrebutor was not loose BEFORE you time the engine (This will give you a hint if that's part of your problem) & make sure you tighten the bolt so the distributor does not move after you've timed it...

I'm still testing the dam HEAP to see if I see any change, I don't think it's fixed yet!!! It's as if the dam thing is haunted...

Let me know if this helped you & let us know if you've found the problem
good luck

 

Todd, the chiltons manual says the timing chain can have up to 1/2 inch of deflection. I dont know what that would be in degrees and the book dont say. measure it by rotating the crankshaft clockwise to take up the slack on the left side of the chain. Make the left side of the chain tight. then pick a reference point on the engine perpendicular to the middle of the left side chain and measure the distance from the ref pt to the left side chain. then rotate the crank counter clockwise to make the left side chain loose. Push the left side chain to the left then measure to the same ref pt. The difference in the 2 measurements not exceed 13 MM or 1/2 inch. If it exceeds, replace the chain.

 

Hey guys,

I've spent the last hour or so studying this entire thread feeling your pain kart1. My truck has been running rough for 2 months now and I've gotten to the point that I can't drive it anymore. I can't tell if I'm having the same problem as you or not though. When it first started the one of the codes I pulled was that it was running lean as well, that's when this thread caught my attention.

Here are the symptoms:
-After the choke goes off, idle is very rough, will drop down to 300-500 rpm, then hiccup and shoot up to 700-1100 rpm, then repeat sporadically
-When taking off, I have to feather the gas to keep if from bogging out, related to above
-When getting off the interstate or coming up to a redlight, as I'm slowing down in neutral or with the clutch in, the truck will just shut off. It never shuts off when I'm in the gas, only when my foot is on the clutch or its in neutral.

Are these the same symptoms as y'all? I got confused a little, but definitely have felt your pain as you replace part after part that you think is it because everything sounds like it could be, and then its still sitting there in your driveway unable to move.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

Muddy. You need to state make, year, model, engine, etc of your truck. We dont even know if you have a Ford or a Chevy etc. You mention a choke. Todds truck is fuel injected and has no choke. You could have an entirely different cause/problem. The same symptoms may not be the same problem. Also you would be better off starting a new thread. By chance if your truck is a 1988 ford f150 5.0 fuel injected your symptoms are probably caused by a bad or sticking idle air bypass valve or egr system. You could also have a cracked vacuum hose.

 

I have a 1990 F150, 4x4, 5Spd with a 302 EFI. Maybe you call it something different, but I am referring to the warm up stage of the truck, when it runs at a higher rpm speed to get the temp up. We call it a choke down here. I am replacing the air bypass valve tomorrow, assuming I can find it. Autozone didin't carry the part. That's next on the list though.

 

The EGR, 02 sensor, IAC have already been replaced. The intake manifold was cleaned. The throttle positioning sensor was replaced. Spark plugs have been changed.

 

10 deg of slack is way to much , it may have allready jumped a tooth , replace the chain & gears....Lew

 

If you haven't done so yet, yank the vacuum off of your EGR valve and see how that works out for you too. Makes a hell of a problem that a computer will never talk about thanks to a lot of solenoids that should be sensors.

 

Muddy, if its charolette NC, I live so close you can probably smell me when the wind blows. Used to live in the Derita and Toddville area. Basicaly the computer, O2 sensor and IAV do the "choke" job. Try Lupin's suggestion. Pull the hose off the egr and see if there is a vacuum on it during startup or idle. The EGR may also have a position on top of it. It is basically a 3 terminal pot or variable resistor. If it is bad it can make the computer think the egr is not working as it should. I will look at my haynes and chiltons manuals to see if they cover your 90. Your truck probably also has an air injection and vapor canister system. I have an 87 f150 5.0 efi and my idle up down hard start problems have always been cured by replacing the IAV. I think I'm on old #7 about now.

 

I am in Charlotte, very cool. Today I replaced the EGR positioner and the EVR valve. The thermostat is next on the list. I pulled it off the truck wouldn't do jack and had a hard time moving it around in the driveway, much worse than before. I haven't heard of the IAV? Where is that located? It is different than the IAC right? I just replaced the 02 sensor, one of the first things I did when all of this started actually. The 3 things that are left are the thermostat, the TAD selonoid and the TAB selonoid, if those don't fix them I will be out of ideas and suggestions from anyone. The TAD and TAB selonoids are supposedly a likely shot but the catch is ford doesn't make them anymore and I have to find them off ebay or a junkyard or something and hope the ones there are better than mine.