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EGR Mounting Bolts

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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 08:17 PM
  #1  
CharlieBravo's Avatar
CharlieBravo
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EGR Mounting Bolts

97 f150 with 4.6----

Have run into this on 2 different trucks. The rear mounting bolt for the egr valve is nearly impossible to remove without breaking the bolt. Anyone have any advice for removing this bolt without breaking it off?

The bolt starts easy enough, but the further you remove the harder it gets until it actually breaks off. Does not seem to make any differance soaking in blaster or wd.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 09:15 PM
  #2  
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torkum
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From: Mount Juliet, TN
Since using this penetrating oil I don't break bolts any more

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/
 
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 09:27 PM
  #3  
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Thudpucker
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From: Cullman Alabama
There is a secret to removing suspected stubborn bolts.
Use the Air wrench!
When you squeeze the trigger, Hold it down till the bolt is out! Don't jazz the trigger.

If you start the bolt, the rust, carbon, etc in the threads begins to grab and heat up.
If you stop turning the bolt when its hot it will seize in the threads.
So a ratchet is start/stop/start/stop etc until finally one time it wont restart.

So in advance, put the air to it and don't let up till its out. They rarely ever seize and break with the air wrench. Its important not to let the bolt stop on the way out though.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 04:48 AM
  #4  
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vze2sgxa
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From: Where the war is...
Originally Posted by CharlieBravo
97 f150 with 4.6----

Have run into this on 2 different trucks. The rear mounting bolt for the egr valve is nearly impossible to remove without breaking the bolt. Anyone have any advice for removing this bolt without breaking it off?

The bolt starts easy enough, but the further you remove the harder it gets until it actually breaks off. Does not seem to make any differance soaking in blaster or wd.

You probably don't want to consider this, but I removed my EGR when I took the entire throttle body and elbow to intake off for EGR & IAC passage cleaning. It was just easier that way, and it's easier to reinstall the new valves (EGR/IAC) with the exact torque required on the bolts (I found it was too hard to get a torque wrench in close enough to get an accurate reading). I just reinstalled the entire assembly. Keep in mind, this is for a 5.4V, it might be different for your engine.
 
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