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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 03:22 PM
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fluid info

hey folks, I've just purchased a 66 crew cab all stock, with original 352. it only has 74000 original miles. I was wondering if I should run a special oil or oil additive. my buddy is a big mustang guy, and he said there was a zinc additive or an oil with zinc that should be used. I'm sure this has not been used in this truck recently. also, what sort of gas should I run? I'm sure '66 ran leaded. should I use an additive? It's a F-350 4 speed, manual trans. what about other additives for trans & rear-end? Synthetics? Thanks a lot guys. I'm trying to learn, and want to do the right thing.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 03:37 PM
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I've been told to use lead substitute so that you don't burn up the valves. its about $2 for every tank fill up and that's cheap enough that you can just keep a few in your truck for when ever you fill up.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 03:40 PM
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Hello and Welcome to FTE! i use regular 10-40 motor oil, no synthetics, I run regular unleaded gas in my 352, if you want to run a additive i like Lucas products. Everyone will want you to post some pic's of you truck. you can use photobucket of another free picture site to do so.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 03:50 PM
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Welcome

Welcome from Louisiana and a fellow crew-cab owner. Just one question. Where are the pictures of your truck?
 
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 05:04 PM
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the lead additive i suspect is for non hardened valve seats which probably have been replaced if it has been rebuilt in later years. Zinc additive im not sure but some of the guys i know swear by it in their original fords as the new engine oils do not use much zinc. personally i think routine oil changes are a must and that is very imortant. 3000 per oil change and i have never had an engine failure except for this valve problem on my 66 and a few overrevs in my teenage years!
 
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 05:17 PM
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The only way i can see using a lead additive is if you own a 30000 mile all original truck worth many thousands of dollars. If you do not, i would not bother with it. you will need to replace the seats and valves later on down the road anyways. that is if you drive it a lot.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 06:02 PM
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1. All the oils today are a synthetic base, for you application I would stick with a base-line oil
2. Yes, I would run a lead additive if you could find one. It will help ensure longetivity of the valvetrain.
3. ZDDP additive- Yes, unless you have oil that is at least 1 year old around. All the major cam mfg's supply- check for best price.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 12:40 AM
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You can run a lead additive if you want. I don't put it into any of my vehicles since they are only driven about 1000 miles a year. Wouldn't make a difference in the big picture. As far as zinc is concerned I definitely use it in my Cougar as it has a high lift cam and a much higher spring pressure than a stock engine. Is there ZDDP in todays oils. Yes, but around 800ppm versus the old days of 1300-1500ppm. The consensus I have seen is that a broken in stock engine with stock spring pressures should be ok with the oils out there. If you are breaking in a new cam of have a modified cam then you need the higher level of ZDDP.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 05:37 AM
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Just run pump gas and 10W30 oil. A gazillion vehicles are running everyday without those additives.



John
 
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 06:33 PM
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The information regarding ZDDP THAT i have seen and read (HOT ROD, STREET RODDER, ROD AND CUSTOM, CAR CRAFT etc,) all say itwas used in motor oils to protect the cam lobes of older engines from excessive wear. Todays oils do not have any significant amounts of ZDDP in them because the auto manufacturers claim that ZDDP causes premature catalytic converter failure. They reccommend using diesel oils such as 15w40 which contain high levels of ZDDP. Older diesels do not have cats on them so that the can have the higher levels of ZDDP in the oil. Dan. (Not to be confused with Edweirdo.) LOL.
 

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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Beechkid
1. All the oils today are a synthetic base, for you application I would stick with a base-line oil.
What?

Rotella and valvoline race oil have sufficent ZDDP content to protect your engine. Got an Email from a fella at shell before anyone argues.

If the engine was rebuilt in the last 20 years it most likely has hardend seats. You can run the lead if you want for cheep insurance though. It will cause no harm.

The stock 352 probobly does not need the ZDDP. The use was to protect flat tappets and mechanical lifters. The 352 is a flat tappet engine but if it has a modern aftermarket cam or a good quality replacment in it I would see no reason you cant use any standard base oil. It may not like a synthetic so I would shy away from them. I use rotella in every vehicle I have save our 05 escape which calls for a 5W-20 which is significantly thiner then rotellas 10W-30.

It is up to you to decide.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 12:24 AM
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Thanks folks. I really appreciate all your input. After listening to everone's ideas, I'm going to go with rotella. Seems like it can't hurt, and with 74000 miles, I'm going to try to take care of it as best I can. What weight do you guys recomend? I'm hearing 10w40.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 06:13 AM
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I dont know how cold it gets down there in the winter but I would say 15W-40 is a good oil as long as the temp stays above 0 year round. If not use their 10W-30.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 03:02 AM
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oil

thanks flipklos. you've been a big help. I'd like to keep her running as smooth as possible for as long as possible.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 06:12 AM
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No problom.
 
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