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Hello all,
I was recently given my grandparents old farm truck to tinker with. It is a 78 F150 long bed with the 351/400m. The truck has been sitting out on the farm for about 1 1/2 years, due to my grandmothers health. I charged the battery, checked the fluids, replaced the starter and fuel pump, and she fired right up. It definitely needs a few things, but from the cab forward it is pretty solid.
With that being said, a few quick questions. I found a bed from a 76 f250 xlt on craigslist. Will the body lines match up okay on this bed? I have read that the fuel doors are different, but I never found if the actual body lines match.
Also, can the F150 be upgraded to F250 springs? I am planning on using the truck to pull my Jeep and 4wheelers, and a better towing capacity wouldn't hurt.
the body lines will match up just fine the difference is the 76 will have the holes that attach the bed to the frame to the bed in the wrong place dur to the older trucks had a narrower frame so you will have to drill new holes to attach it
Welcome aboard! So you got yourself Ol'red, looks good, keep us posted on the upgrades, and we do love to see pictures! It's great when a truck has been in the family and gets passed on! How about some engine, and interior shots??
Welcome aboard! So you got yourself Ol'red, looks good, keep us posted on the upgrades, and we do love to see pictures! It's great when a truck has been in the family and gets passed on! How about some engine, and interior shots??
UPDATE......found some 31x10.50x15's for it. Mounted them up and we are now here....
the body lines will match up just fine the difference is the 76 will have the holes that attach the bed to the frame to the bed in the wrong place...
due to the older trucks had a narrower frame so you will have to drill new holes to attach it
Originally Posted by usarmytaterness
Ford used all the same frames
Both of y'all are mis-informed.
1973/77 F250 4WD's (High Boys) have narrow rear frame rails that are 33 1/2" apart.
All other 1973/79's rear frame rails are 37 1/2" apart.
The problems associated with using a Styleside bed from a 1973/76 on a 1977/79 is...these later trucks have fuel doors while the earlier trucks have exposed fuel caps.
1973/76 vs 1977/79: The filler necks, hoses and related parts are not the same. The 1977/79 filler necks and etc will not work with the 1973/76 bed.
If the replacement bed does not have these parts, they can be difficult to find because there were several different filler necks and hoses.
The parts may look the same, but looks can be deceiving.
I found a 79 F150 2wd sitting behind a barn, so I bought it to use for parts. It is a 79 with a blown 6 cyl. The body and interior are in very good condition and it is an A/C truck!! I was very happy with the score.
Now to a quick question. Because it has been sitting for a few years, there is some surface rust starting on the top of the bed rails and cab. Do you guys suggest sandblasting these areas (Harbor Freight has a one for $70)? Or would soda blasting take it off?
Went and took a few pics of the parts truck that I will be getting a few panels from. It is a79 2wd F150 with the 6cyl and an AC cab. The body and frame are very solid except the bed area above the wheel wells, and the driver side rear corner. All of the headlight trim and dash trim is in his garage. I am actually not sure if I want to part it out or not (6 cyl knocks) since it is so decent. I traded 1000 rounds of target ammo for it....
Looking at the A/C cab versus the non A/C cab on my truck, it appears as though I will have to cut a chunk out of the firewall. This brings up 3 questions, if you would:
1st: Both cabs are good, so would I be better off swapping the whole cab, or cutting the hole in my non a/c cab and swapping everything over?
2nd: What do I do about the VIN if I switch cabs? Would I use the title for the 2wd 6 cyl or would I swap my VIN plate over to the new cab?
3rd: Will all the A/C stuff from a 6cyl switch over to my v8? I understand brackets may be different, but were the compressors and lines the same?
Yes, swap the cabs. You can work on the A/C cab on a platform inside while driving the red truck if it needs body work.
VIN: Swap the label/plate. Most if not all states use the frame VIN as proof, not the body. Destroy the certification label on the green cab. Drill out the warranty plates from the doors and keep your red truck's warranty plate until you find the perfect door to put it on.
A/C: You'll just have to find out what will fit and won't. Compressor bracket won't fit, obviously.