A/C compressor not turning on?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,773
Likes: 1
From: Texas Coast
More than likely the accumulator/drier is fouled out and/or the orfice incert to the evap core is as well. If the pressure is truely high.
Then the system needs to be evacuated and then remove the orfice screen and replace it. There typically is no cleaning of them since most destroy on removal when it has this much age. But you never know. It will also be color coded the orfice that is. Its located on the high pressure line entering the evap inside the tube. The orfice drops the pressure on the freon so that it flashed to a gas inside the evaporator. After it leaves the evap theres the drier that is also used as a place to accumulate liquids. I have heard them called either accumulator or drier. IT can be fouled out as well but its less likely.
There should be (or maybe) a filter from the compressor side just before the condenser.
So plugging can be at the filter before the condensor on the HI PSIG line or following the line from the Condenser outlet to the evap at the inlet connection of the evap at the orfice in the tube. Or even in the outlet accumulator/drier.
If you are to break into it then there is clipring separators that you can get that slip around the tubing and with hand pressure sleeve up into the clip ring connections and open the ring. New O-rings should be installed and then after clearing it all out and flushing the system blow it all clear peice by peice. Then putting it back you need to draw it dowm to about 3 to 5 psia with a vacuum pump to ensure that the atmosphere is removed and the unit is dry. Once the vac is pulled you stop and ensure that it does hold the vacuum if not then there a connection leak somewhere or a hole in the condenser ofr evaporator. But if its just minor then you can put is all back to gether being sure to oil the compressor well (using compatable oil) <<- thats done before pulling vacuum but after flushing and then charge the unit with the correct freon and oil ratio.
Crank it up and finish the charging.
Then the system needs to be evacuated and then remove the orfice screen and replace it. There typically is no cleaning of them since most destroy on removal when it has this much age. But you never know. It will also be color coded the orfice that is. Its located on the high pressure line entering the evap inside the tube. The orfice drops the pressure on the freon so that it flashed to a gas inside the evaporator. After it leaves the evap theres the drier that is also used as a place to accumulate liquids. I have heard them called either accumulator or drier. IT can be fouled out as well but its less likely.
There should be (or maybe) a filter from the compressor side just before the condenser.
So plugging can be at the filter before the condensor on the HI PSIG line or following the line from the Condenser outlet to the evap at the inlet connection of the evap at the orfice in the tube. Or even in the outlet accumulator/drier.
If you are to break into it then there is clipring separators that you can get that slip around the tubing and with hand pressure sleeve up into the clip ring connections and open the ring. New O-rings should be installed and then after clearing it all out and flushing the system blow it all clear peice by peice. Then putting it back you need to draw it dowm to about 3 to 5 psia with a vacuum pump to ensure that the atmosphere is removed and the unit is dry. Once the vac is pulled you stop and ensure that it does hold the vacuum if not then there a connection leak somewhere or a hole in the condenser ofr evaporator. But if its just minor then you can put is all back to gether being sure to oil the compressor well (using compatable oil) <<- thats done before pulling vacuum but after flushing and then charge the unit with the correct freon and oil ratio.
Crank it up and finish the charging.
New User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 3
From: River Valley AR
Its very possible that your compressor is trying to lock up internally and causing a big load on the motor. it should turn smoothly by hand but it should have some resistance also.
New User
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
The gauge will read really high if the compressor isn't running. The gauge goes on the low pressure side and when it isn't running the high and low pressure lines equalize, so the low pressure side is high, the high side is low. There have been multiple people have issues with the plugs on the compressor. Make sure all the connections are tight. If that doesn't do it , then you may need to install a jumper in the high or low pressure switches to trouble shoot the issue. There can be issues as well with the clearances on the electric clutch on the compressor. There is a thread on here somewhere about removing a shim to make the clearances in the clutch what they should be. Let me see if I can find it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,539
Likes: 2,030
From: North Texas
Start a new thread please.
The low switch will remain an open circuit until there is pressure in the system to close it, thus sending power down the line to the high switch and finally off to compressor.
The low switch will remain an open circuit until there is pressure in the system to close it, thus sending power down the line to the high switch and finally off to compressor.