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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 01:10 AM
  #16  
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only issues i've had with my 3.0l extended (i tow my honda civic, car weighs 2klbs empty pluss about 600 for uhaul tow dolley) was that my car runs hot, but that is specific to my car because i'm STILL dealing with a phantom leak in my cooling system. our aero's are great for towing.

my dad used his 94 4.0l awd for towing masonry all over oregon and washington for like 15 years, and only in the end did his tranny start giving out, HOWEVER it was because he did not change tranny fluid regularly, install a plate and fin tranny cooler or down shift to d from od.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 09:38 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by DCRB
...i'm STILL dealing with a phantom leak in my cooling system.
I had an '84 Civic with a leak like that - kept losing coolant, couldn't figure out where. Turned out to be a small hole in the hose from the radiator cap to the reservoir. It ran past something with a sharp point (or edge) which eventually wore through the hose.

Hope you find that leak - I wasn't checking my coolant level often enough and eventually wound up with a cracked head (at 401,000 miles). THEN the leak was located...
 
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 10:29 AM
  #18  
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actually another point I learned that might help some others out there with installing the big tranny cooler.

I was told to take out the plastic grill and just shave off the inside of the fins on the grill itself. they are about 2.5 inches deep so if I take off about an inch the new big tranny cooler can mount in front of the radiatior and cooling line for the steering fluid.

sand and repaint the cuts and no one will notice
 
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 12:59 PM
  #19  
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Kool Kurt,




pictures please of project during and after.
some of us are slow learners and DIYer disablity limited

how ya trimming the backside of the grille off, what tool?


Originally Posted by KurtDeMeaner
actually another point I learned that might help some others out there with installing the big tranny cooler.

I was told to take out the plastic grill and just shave off the inside of the fins on the grill itself. they are about 2.5 inches deep so if I take off about an inch the new big tranny cooler can mount in front of the radiatior and cooling line for the steering fluid.

sand and repaint the cuts and no one will notice
 
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 05:15 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Two99Point80
I had an '84 Civic with a leak like that - kept losing coolant, couldn't figure out where. Turned out to be a small hole in the hose from the radiator cap to the reservoir. It ran past something with a sharp point (or edge) which eventually wore through the hose.

Hope you find that leak - I wasn't checking my coolant level often enough and eventually wound up with a cracked head (at 401,000 miles). THEN the leak was located...
i think mine is either leaking from a heater core or the intake manifold gasket. everything else is newish (within the last year).

sorry to thread jack!

when i installed my tranny cooler i had no problems with the grill being in the way...
 
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 10:22 PM
  #21  
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well haven't done the trimming yet, but probably I'll do it with a air powered die grinder. either that or a dremel, nice and slow. I'll let you know how it goes. Won't be for a while.

right now I am in the middle of grinding down the rocker panels. why do the aerostars all rust out down both rocker panels?????

the metal is really thin so I will grind it all, use some of that fibreglass stuff with the stringie bits in it to plug all the holes then cover it all with rubberized rock guard.

anybody got any better ideas?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 11:59 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by KurtDeMeaner
well haven't done the trimming yet, but probably I'll do it with a air powered die grinder. either that or a dremel, nice and slow. I'll let you know how it goes. Won't be for a while.

right now I am in the middle of grinding down the rocker panels. why do the aerostars all rust out down both rocker panels?????

the metal is really thin so I will grind it all, use some of that fibreglass stuff with the stringie bits in it to plug all the holes then cover it all with rubberized rock guard.

anybody got any better ideas?
i'm just going to replace mine with new aftermarket ones. i can give you some links when i get home if you like of replacement parts. any ways i'm going to use automotive glue (stuffs stronger than spot welds, and doesn't warp the metal). that way i can spray the insides with like rustoleum or something rust resistant. that and drill holes in the bottom of them so water drains out better.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 02:15 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by DCRB
that way i can spray the insides with like rustoleum or something rust resistant. that and drill holes in the bottom of them so water drains out better.
I'm kind of surprised that the vans do not come from the factory with treatment like this; a good protective coating on the metal with drain (and vent) holes to prevent trapping of moisture.

Sorry for being off topic.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 10:30 AM
  #24  
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the curse seems 2 fold. no drain holes and the rubberized skin that come on the rocker panels has seperated from the metal in spots (bubbles) and allows moisture to get in between the two.

I am grinding off these bubbles just to find that the metal in behind doesn't look too bad except for a few holes I can stick my thumb into.

I'm going to grind and stuff with fibreglass & bondo, sand it and cover it with the rubberized gravel guard. when/if this fails in a year or two then I'll cut it out. right now it is localized to under the panels so I have to stand on my head to fix it.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 11:09 AM
  #25  
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Hmmm...I got a transmission cooler rated for 5000lbs towing capacity and it didn't rub the grill at all...almost touching but not quite.

And yeah, finally my Aero is showing signs of bubbling under the paint at the rocker panels. It was redone about 7 years ago, and the previous owner put on that rubberized gravel stuff on there again, made extra drain holes etc...it's just an area that collects moisture. I guess I was lucky to gain 7 more years of rust-freeness!
 
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 01:32 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 96_4wdr

tow in 3rd no OD.
Absolutely the best advice
 
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Old Oct 3, 2009 | 11:23 AM
  #27  
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just got the kyb gas adjust shocks installed in the rear. will do the fronts shortly but what a difference already. the ride is so much better. mind you the old shocks were the origional factory ones that were totally shot.

I'll do the matching kyb in the front.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 07:31 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by DCRB
i'm just going to replace mine with new aftermarket ones. i can give you some links when i get home if you like of replacement parts. any ways i'm going to use automotive glue (stuffs stronger than spot welds, and doesn't warp the metal). that way i can spray the insides with like rustoleum or something rust resistant. that and drill holes in the bottom of them so water drains out better.
Has anyone run a thread on replacing rusty sheetmetal using automotive glue rather than a welder?

tp4pdb
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 09:22 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by tp4pdb
Has anyone run a thread on replacing rusty sheetmetal using automotive glue rather than a welder?

tp4pdb
I thought someone talked about it a couple years ago, it might have been DCRB. Not sure, my memory is not the greatest anymore. Try doing a search, you might come up with it.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 10:05 PM
  #30  
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all 4 KYB gas adjust shocks are installed. holy cow what a nice ride. the old ones were shot. it doesn't heave instelf into corners like a drunken rhino now!
 
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