No, I don't have a proper area to work on it where it's at now. It's on the side of the road in front of my brother's house. I'm going to tow it up to my parent's house and work on it there. It has almost full tanks of gas in both. Thanks for asking.

It's a lot more work than I thought it would be. I changed out a fuel pump on my old '86 Jeep Cherokee a few years back. You didn't have to drop the tank to get to the pump. It was accessed on the rear/upper part of the tank.

How long do you estimate this job at? I'll use a floor jack and I should have all the proper tools at my Dad's place.


>If you are getting this problem on both tanks, I would be
>suspect of the tank selector switch. It would be pretty
>rare for both in-tank pumps to go bad. He also mentioned
>that the gauge was acting goofy. That would make me to
>really suspect the tank selector swith.
>
>So, did you get the problem fixed?
>
>Roger Lane

 

Ok, I've spent all day talking to people on this. I think I got the best info from the Sound Ford Part's department guy in Renton, WA. He's had the same issues with his 1988 F350.

I most likley need to start with replacing the relay. I guess it's on the fuse block under the dash? Could someone please tell me where to locate this? I am told it's a 5 prong type relay plug. $17

The actual selector switch itself is most likley the culprit. Once that starts going out it will give you those wacky readings on your fuel gauge like I'm getting. $60 Hopefully it's fixed at this point...

It sounds like I may have a combination of issues here. We're also thinking the high pressure pump is getting weak (going out). The reason for the bucking and what not. Even though I can hear that pump priming when turning the key, the actual pump may not be (now) providing enough pressure to move the fuel up into the injectors? $200...ouch! I think I can get it at Schucks for under $100?


We've kind of ruled out the low pressure pumps in the tanks. The fuel valve unit that switches between tanks could be it as well. That's the part at the rear that has 6 fuel lines going into it from the tanks up to the high pressure pump. That may need to be replaced. $68.

These prices are from the Ford dealership, so you know they're on the high side. I assume I need to buy the FORD OEM relay, selector switch and fuel valve unit. Would I be ok buying the high pressure pump aftermarket? $200 for a fuel pump is ridiculous. I know I can get it at B&B or Schucks for less than $100.

I want to get some educated advice on what you think my problem is. I think it's the relay or selector switch and the high pressure pump. What do you think it is? Thanks for all your help amigos. :-X12

 

Oh yeah, he told me helped a guy that had both low pressure pumps stop at the same time. He thought he had a blown or bad relay but he had a bad selector switch. He put the new switch in and the pumps powered up again and the truck ran great.

I think it's 1 or 2 of these 4 things.

1. Relay

2. Selector switch on dash

3. High pressure pump

4. Fuel valve selector (unit at the rear by the tanks)

I think it may be 2 & 3? What do you think?

 

>Sounds like a TPS problem - have you pulled the codes?
>http://www.broncodata.com/tech/codes.htm

Are you talking about this> https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/code124.php

 

i have owned 5 ford trucks i aint never had one that the gas guage worked worth a damn in 3 dual tankers 2 single tankers

 

>i have owned 5 ford trucks i aint never had one that the
>gas guage worked worth a damn in 3 dual tankers 2 single
>tankers


Do you mean they gave you inaccurate readings or was the needle pegged past empty or full? What was the reason for incorrect readings do you think?

 

Did you get that code (124) out of your truck? Were there any other codes in the computer?

 

>Did you get that code (124) out of your truck? Were there
>any other codes in the computer?

How do you do the code check on these trucks? I've never done that before. I think on my Nissan 300ZX you turn the key a few times and count one of the dash lights.

 

>How do you do the code check on these trucks?

I posted this link in my first post in this thread:
http://www.broncodata.com/tech/codes.htm
The Haynes manual also details the procedure.

 

Thanks Steve. It looks like I need a device to check the codes.

I'm going over to my bros today to replace the fuel pump relay switch. The selector switch isn't in at the dealership yet. The parts guy said with Christmas, it won't come in until the end of the week or next Monday.

I'm pretty sure the selector switch may be the culprit here. Hopefully the relay needs to be replaced so I can at least get it started today. I wonder if I can take the switch a-part and at least rig it to work until I get the new one in? I read somewhere that it gets burned up in there and the contacts don't meet anymore. With the fuel gauge going wacky I'm really starting to believe the selector switch is the problem here. The frame mounted high pressure pump seems to be fine as it makes it's audible "prime up" sound when turning the key. It doesn't make since for both pumps in both tanks to go out at the exact same time. That's why we've concluded that it must be either the relay or slector switch. Jeez, I've learned a lot with this current problem...



>>How do you do the code check on these trucks?
>
>I posted this link in my first post in this thread:
>http://www.broncodata.com/tech/codes.htm
>The Haynes manual also details the procedure.

 

I'm actually starting to think it's #2 by itself now. Hopefully it's #1 because that's the part I'm going to replace today.

>Oh yeah, he told me helped a guy that had both low pressure
>pumps stop at the same time. He thought he had a blown or
>bad relay but he had a bad selector switch. He put the new
>switch in and the pumps powered up again and the truck ran
>great.
>
>I think it's 1 or 2 of these 4 things.
>
>1. Relay
>
>2. Selector switch on dash
>
>3. High pressure pump
>
>4. Fuel valve selector (unit at the rear by the tanks)
>
> I think it may be 2 & 3? What do you think?

 

Where in the heck is the fuel pump relay located? I bought the relay today and I can't for the life of me find where it goes. Pleeeease help.... I was told it was under the carpet of the passenger side floor panel. I found nothing there but a access hole through the floor that I unscrewed. I couldn't find anything in that area but daylight to the ground.

I bought a selector switch from a 1996 F250 that I got to work even though it won't mount. The selector switches between both tanks but I still get those whacked-out reading of all the way past Empty in the front tank and all the way past full on the rear.

I read in Chiltons and somebody told me here to reset the inertia switch to get the tank fuel pumps going again. The Chiltons manual said it was up under the dash to the right. I looked all over and could not find the small button(s). It said there is either 1 or 2 buttons that you hold down at the same time (if 2).

My Christmas immediate wish list:

1. Where do I locate the fuel pump relay so I can switch it out with my new one I just bought?

2. Where in the hell is the inertia switch located so I can reset it?


Thanks Santa. :-X12

 

I replied on your other thread about it.

 

Right, thanks Steve. Here it is> https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID39/6792.html#3