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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 06:55 PM
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Starting Problem

I have a 1994 Ford F-150 with a 4.9L. I have replaced the Fender mounted solenoid, and pulled the starter, the solenoid on the starter is fine. I put 40 amps to the solenoid, and it pushed out the bendix gear and spun the starter. I cleaned all terminals, and put it back in the truck, and now the truck still wont fire, it just click... Any Ideas anyone?
Feedback is greatly appreciated, and thanks in advance!
Sean
 
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 08:36 PM
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Get a voltmeter. Put the negative lead on point #2, and the positive lead on point #1, and then #3, and then #6. Each time you put the positive lead on a point in the diagram above, get someone to try and start it. The point were you do not get any voltage, means the problem is right there at that point, or behind it a little bit.

If you do the above test and get 12v at all points, but still get a click, then move your negative lead to the engine block point #4, and then put the positive lead on point #1. If you lose 12v while you try to start it in this config, then the negative lead of the battery is bad.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 09:33 PM
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Thank You Dave, that will help out alot. If by number 4 you mean engine ground, it isn't there. The guy wiring before me was a nut job, and did akward things. The Negative terminal of the battery has a fender ground which is smaller wire, then it has the heavy guage wire (same size as power wire from battery to starter) that runs to the starter, is it to be grounded on the starter casing? Or should I re-route it? I have a fair amount of ability and understand this for the most part, I am going to school in Ohio for Diesel Technition, but this one has me baffled...
thanks
sean
 
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 06:30 PM
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I am not too familiar with the sixes, but from talking to other guys on here, the factory did seem to run the large neg battery cable to the starter case. The starter is the power hog anyway, so if the large wire is directly on the starter, it should work fine there.

Another quicky trick you can try is turn the headlights on, and then try to start the truck. If they go completely out, then you probably do have a connection problem in the large wiring, or a problem with the battery. If the headlights stay bright, then you probably have a control wiring problem. The headlights act like a crude voltmeter, and will basically test one point(point #3) when you try to crank the truck, just like you would with the real voltmeter in the previous post.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 09:00 PM
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Thank you all for your help, I found the problem. The fender mounted solenoid, which was new, was bad from the store, put a new one in and it fired right up.
Thanks Again,
Sean
 
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 10:23 AM
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Doesn't that suck!!!! Congrats on finding it....
 
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