i pulled these codes 334 ,and i don't know what this means.
could someone please help me overstand this problem.

1991-f150 5.8-351 windsor v8 a.o.d

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-Jan-03 AT 04:07 AM (EST)]Code 334-EGR closed voltage higher than expected

There's a little sensor on top of the egr that tells the computer what position the valve is in. It's the Egr Valve Position sensor (EVP).Your computer is telling you that it thinks the sensor is wacked. Probably is wacked. Fortuneatly I had to check mine yesterday, and I can tell you how to get it done.

To check it.
There are three wires. The first test is to check the voltage reference. This is the Black wire with yellow stripe. Should be 5.0 volts, 4.0 to 6.0 is supposed to be acceptable. Check with connector unplugged and key on, engine off.

Next, you need to check the voltage between the black with green stripe and the grey with red stripe. Check with connector connected. (EDIT-Key on Engine off) You can use sewing pins pushed into the wires to get your multimeter in there while it's plugged in. If it's higher than .67 volts replace sensor. This is probably what's causing you're problem. Mine checked .41 volts for comparison.

You should also realize that the color of the wires is how my 92 4.9 is colored. Your's may use different colors. Just test different combinations, you should be able to figure it out. There's only three wires.

 

While I'm thinking about it, check to see that the egr isn't stuck open too. If it was jammed it would naturally read too high. You could probably just put a peice of vacuum hose on the egr and suck on the hose. Doing that should be able to hear the valve move a little. If not investigate further.

 

yes yes yes yes , the EGR valve needed a cleaning, i did that this morn and also found that the pipe from the intake mani to the EGR via the exhaust mani was broken in 2 where the spirel is, probably broke it when i replaced the stock mani (don't use this pipe to lever ). i also did another KOEO test and i didn't get any codes at all.she starts up just fine, thank yall for your advice, u rock

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Jan-03 AT 01:29 AM (EST)] well guys, cleaning the EGR valve worked for like a day and after that my problem came back again, so i got a new EGR valve and a new air pipe which i installed today and i still have a starting problem. she will only start when i press my foot on the gas paddel and cranck the engine, after half a minute she will start up and then i smell a strong gas smell kinda like she was flooded ,i also now get the check engine light comming on which never happend before i put in the new EGR valve. WHAT'S GOING ON GUYS ?. SOMEONE

I THOUGHT I WAS OUT OF IT BUT IT SEEMS I JUST GONE 3 STEEPS BACK $200 LATER.
please help me?

 

It's not that uncommon to have several different things wrong with your truck. Don't get discouraged, it takes time to track down all the motor's hiccups. Pull the codes and do the koeo - koer tests again. You may find it shows a whole new problem. Let us know what it shows and we can try to help pinpoint it.

 

i will do the koeo and koer tests today and i will keep you up to speed. thanks

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Jan-03 AT 03:24 PM (EST)] i got these codes today and cant make any sense of them 332 R,C=EGR valve open not detected. w just put on a new EGR valve yesterday ,with a new air pipe
the other code was 116 O,R=coolantant temp sensor out of self test range:-staun this probably means i need a new coolant temp sensor or the engine control computer? OR WHAT?
can some one help me figure out this

"JUST ME PLEASE!!!!! "

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Jan-03 AT 05:51 PM (EST)]:-staun i think the shop that fitted my new EGR valve ripped me off, the EGR valve i had on looks totally diferent to that which they installed today.on my old EGR valve i had some amount of springy resistace from the sensor when i installed it, i also had to hold the sensor in place cause it had some pressure from the pin touching the inside of the EGR valve causing it to push upward. the "NEW EGR valve" , has some sort of a spacer mounted on it where the sensor sits and that is one of the big differences from the one i had before, secondly the sensor don't have any kind of spring resistance when it is placed on the valve for mounting like the sensor isn't touching in the valve . okay, before i got them to install a "new EGR valve", i only got a 334 code and no check engine light, but $200 later and a new EGR valve and air pipe , the check engine light is comming on when i drive up to 35 mph on the speedo and it just won't
go out and she still wont start up right.
so i took the truck to auto zone and got them to pull the codes , we got 331(r) which he said was the o2 sensor gone south. then we got code 332(r,c)=little or no activity from the egr valve sensor during (koer) EGR stuck closed (NEW egr VALVE)+( NEW SENSOR).
The last code we got was 116(o,r) =coolant temperature was above or below normal or the engine control computer is wak.
my question is can all this be posible when my original problem was a 334 code which a new EGR valve was only required ,but now $200 later the check engine light comes on 4ever.p
please some one help
some one please ME NOW!! where is the coolant temp sensor?

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 09-Jan-03 AT 01:46 AM (EST)] anybody there to break down this problem PLEASE! COULD THESE GUYS HAVE BLOCKED ONE OF THE HOLES ON THE egr valve or could they have somehow starved air from the air pump or maybe they snipped a wire to something. what would cause the thermactor air system to just go out of town on me?

 

funny thing this morn.turned on the truck to take the ol lady and the check engine light came on and went out as supposed to ,and i am just baffeled:-staun

 

I had a Jeep once that had a similar starting problem, Would only start if you gave it a little throttle. Turned out to be the injectors. They were driping when it was shut off and flooding out the engine. I checked the fuel pressure bleed off, it checked out fine, but after failing emissions, I checked the injectors and found they were bad. When I pulled them I checked them with air pressure and soapy water and they would make bubbles (well three of them anyway) passed emissions like a charm after that.

 

Also,
I have the same codes in mine right now.
I changed the sensor and light still comes on, There is a solenoid that controls the vacuum, I think that is bad, I am going to do a solenoid check to make sure. I read in an article that you can do a test and cycle the solenoids with the gas pedal somehow.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-11-03 AT 03:26 AM (EST)]tell us what u find about the paddle thingy my light is off now but she still gives problems at start up .
fuel pressure is perfect.:-staun

 

I figured out how to cycle the sensors.
run the KOEO test till its over, press the gas pedal at least 3/4 down, and that will start the solenoid power up part of the test (the light will flash once). press the pedal when you want to turn the solenoids on or off. the check engine light will come on (and stay on) when the solenoids are powered up.

My code 332 ended up to be the vacuum can on the passenger side was leaking. checked vacuum at the EGR solenoid and had nothing, followed the line back to the can, has vacuum going into it, nothing out.