Appearance Questions
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 162
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From: Richmond USA
Appearance Questions
Hey guys, hows it going? I've got a few questions for you, regarding the appearance of my truck.
1.) My truck used to be two-tone white and blue. Someone before me went ahead and just painted right over it with a darker blue. As far as body work, there was a spot at the side of the bed around the wheel well that it seems they just slapped some filler on (a big glob of it) and painted over it.. well the filler is peeling off, with the paint, and underneath is rust.. what should I do about this? Just pull the chunk off and sand the rust off? Then put what on? Just curious.. afterwards Ill prolly spraypaint it a matching blue since I'm planning on a paintjob later this year
2.) The frame of my truck has alot of built up dirt and sludge on it.. but a few spots are starting to rust underneath.. I've been told to have it sandblasted and paint over with rustoleum products.. any other suggestions?
3.) I've got rust spots in my bumper in the front and back, what is the best way to deal with those?
Thanks alot guys!
1.) My truck used to be two-tone white and blue. Someone before me went ahead and just painted right over it with a darker blue. As far as body work, there was a spot at the side of the bed around the wheel well that it seems they just slapped some filler on (a big glob of it) and painted over it.. well the filler is peeling off, with the paint, and underneath is rust.. what should I do about this? Just pull the chunk off and sand the rust off? Then put what on? Just curious.. afterwards Ill prolly spraypaint it a matching blue since I'm planning on a paintjob later this year
2.) The frame of my truck has alot of built up dirt and sludge on it.. but a few spots are starting to rust underneath.. I've been told to have it sandblasted and paint over with rustoleum products.. any other suggestions?
3.) I've got rust spots in my bumper in the front and back, what is the best way to deal with those?
Thanks alot guys!
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 137
Likes: 1
Appearance Questions
This isn't my field.. but i'm in the same boat so to speak.
1. Regarding bad filler job.
Chemical filler removal... there are a vast number of solutions at your typical home improvement shop that eat right though your typical body fillers. Many of whom are in the form of a thick paste. This will also eat paint. I've used this on my car to remove the old filler, and added my own. Diffrence is my filler didn't fall off
Chemidal rust removal... Navel jelly, a product called ospho and also jasco. Navel jelly technicaly being a brand of jelly containing phosphoric acid, and sometimes in the rustolium varity, hydrocholoric, which is wonderful stuff to loosen and blacken rust. In theory the phosphoric acid combines with the iron oxide to produce iron phosphate, but I don't have the experence base to judge it's penitrating power. Both Ospho and Jasco are a prep and primer liquid, also containing phophodic acid among other things. This seems to have much greater penitration power, and is about as thin as water to apply. Both the navel jelly and the ospho/jasco do chemicly etch the metal, but you'll have to ask someone else which is better to use, phophoric or hydrocholoric.
The ospho/jasco seem to be somewhat slower then navel jelly, where the concentration in navel jelly seems to have a poetent effect in 15min to 1hour, the ospho/jasco reccomends over night. Key diffrences being that the navel jelly is about $4 bucks a cup, vs the other stuff for me is $6.00 a liter. [www.jasco-help.com]
Coke cola is reported to have phosphedic acid, and rust remvoal propertis, and i'm sure there are other solutions, like vinigar and such, it would actually be nice if someone compiled a fack on this subject of home remedies.
Mechanical
wirebrush eats right though body filler and paint
presure washer often removes body filler and some paint
sandblast I haven't tried on filler.
belt/orbital/disk sander ofcorse have a similar effect.
Electrical
There was an artical here on the technique somewhere of using stanard washing soda (sodium carbonate) as an electrolite, (+) iron electode, and ofcorse water solution and standard issue battery charger, or direct to car battery. This technique i've used on some serious rust, and has a potent effect, if not somewhat slow. a sponge on a side of a a panel seems to work dandy too, though mostly I use an old kitty pool. problem being, I think my concentration is to high, and it's removing paint as wel, which isn't so bad actually.
#2: regarding frame...
Most people i've seen here reccomend a product called, what was it, por15. A thick hard brush on "paint like" substance that seems to have excelent anti rust qualities, and it's been said is rock solid. a touch in the spendy range, haven't gotten that far in my project to consider these options. The por-15 reccomends something called metal ready, which is likely to be an etching solution. they also have a thiner needed to apply via spray gun.
I'm sure sandblasting is probally the best solution in terms of time invested. I have a 4.5inch 10000 rpm angle grinder with wirebrush... it's very very tedius to remove the rust from many many many pits. it took me forever to do a cab interior this way, infact i'm still on the inside cab. exterior side railes took about a few hours with a grinder, with mild pittng.
My 1966 ford f-250 had a liberal layer of undercoating along the frame, I might beable to get away with just a wire brush, with the use of the ospho / navel jelly.
I'm sure the primary agenda is getting it rust free and painting it. Por15 is pretty spendy, I think about $100 per gallon, vs a the rustolium products that I see much cheeper, like $10 a quart. Por-15 i've heard is photosensative and does fade, and might need a top coat anyway, perhaps undercoding would be more then adquate.
There is ofcorse enamal and truck bed coating, which fetches the same price as the por-15 per gallon, 1/2 the price for the duplicolor / krylon solutions in the same department.
#3: regarding bumper rust
I'm not sure on this one, as this is not something i'd have to deal with yet. If it's chrome, i'm not sure if the your typical chemical solutiosn would affect it adversly, or if the electrolisis technique would be helpful in removing rust, or hurtful in removing chrome.
>Hey guys, hows it going? I've got a few questions for you,
>regarding the appearance of my truck.
>
>1.) My truck used to be two-tone white and blue. Someone
>before me went ahead and just painted right over it with a
>darker blue. As far as body work, there was a spot at the
>side of the bed around the wheel well that it seems they
>just slapped some filler on (a big glob of it) and painted
>over it.. well the filler is peeling off, with the paint,
>and underneath is rust.. what should I do about this? Just
>pull the chunk off and sand the rust off? Then put what on?
> Just curious.. afterwards Ill prolly spraypaint it a
>matching blue since I'm planning on a paintjob later this
>year
>
>2.) The frame of my truck has alot of built up dirt and
>sludge on it.. but a few spots are starting to rust
>underneath.. I've been told to have it sandblasted and paint
>over with rustoleum products.. any other suggestions?
>
>3.) I've got rust spots in my bumper in the front and back,
>what is the best way to deal with those?
1. Regarding bad filler job.
Chemical filler removal... there are a vast number of solutions at your typical home improvement shop that eat right though your typical body fillers. Many of whom are in the form of a thick paste. This will also eat paint. I've used this on my car to remove the old filler, and added my own. Diffrence is my filler didn't fall off
Chemidal rust removal... Navel jelly, a product called ospho and also jasco. Navel jelly technicaly being a brand of jelly containing phosphoric acid, and sometimes in the rustolium varity, hydrocholoric, which is wonderful stuff to loosen and blacken rust. In theory the phosphoric acid combines with the iron oxide to produce iron phosphate, but I don't have the experence base to judge it's penitrating power. Both Ospho and Jasco are a prep and primer liquid, also containing phophodic acid among other things. This seems to have much greater penitration power, and is about as thin as water to apply. Both the navel jelly and the ospho/jasco do chemicly etch the metal, but you'll have to ask someone else which is better to use, phophoric or hydrocholoric.
The ospho/jasco seem to be somewhat slower then navel jelly, where the concentration in navel jelly seems to have a poetent effect in 15min to 1hour, the ospho/jasco reccomends over night. Key diffrences being that the navel jelly is about $4 bucks a cup, vs the other stuff for me is $6.00 a liter. [www.jasco-help.com]
Coke cola is reported to have phosphedic acid, and rust remvoal propertis, and i'm sure there are other solutions, like vinigar and such, it would actually be nice if someone compiled a fack on this subject of home remedies.
Mechanical
wirebrush eats right though body filler and paint
presure washer often removes body filler and some paint
sandblast I haven't tried on filler.
belt/orbital/disk sander ofcorse have a similar effect.
Electrical
There was an artical here on the technique somewhere of using stanard washing soda (sodium carbonate) as an electrolite, (+) iron electode, and ofcorse water solution and standard issue battery charger, or direct to car battery. This technique i've used on some serious rust, and has a potent effect, if not somewhat slow. a sponge on a side of a a panel seems to work dandy too, though mostly I use an old kitty pool. problem being, I think my concentration is to high, and it's removing paint as wel, which isn't so bad actually.
#2: regarding frame...
Most people i've seen here reccomend a product called, what was it, por15. A thick hard brush on "paint like" substance that seems to have excelent anti rust qualities, and it's been said is rock solid. a touch in the spendy range, haven't gotten that far in my project to consider these options. The por-15 reccomends something called metal ready, which is likely to be an etching solution. they also have a thiner needed to apply via spray gun.
I'm sure sandblasting is probally the best solution in terms of time invested. I have a 4.5inch 10000 rpm angle grinder with wirebrush... it's very very tedius to remove the rust from many many many pits. it took me forever to do a cab interior this way, infact i'm still on the inside cab. exterior side railes took about a few hours with a grinder, with mild pittng.
My 1966 ford f-250 had a liberal layer of undercoating along the frame, I might beable to get away with just a wire brush, with the use of the ospho / navel jelly.
I'm sure the primary agenda is getting it rust free and painting it. Por15 is pretty spendy, I think about $100 per gallon, vs a the rustolium products that I see much cheeper, like $10 a quart. Por-15 i've heard is photosensative and does fade, and might need a top coat anyway, perhaps undercoding would be more then adquate.
There is ofcorse enamal and truck bed coating, which fetches the same price as the por-15 per gallon, 1/2 the price for the duplicolor / krylon solutions in the same department.
#3: regarding bumper rust
I'm not sure on this one, as this is not something i'd have to deal with yet. If it's chrome, i'm not sure if the your typical chemical solutiosn would affect it adversly, or if the electrolisis technique would be helpful in removing rust, or hurtful in removing chrome.
>Hey guys, hows it going? I've got a few questions for you,
>regarding the appearance of my truck.
>
>1.) My truck used to be two-tone white and blue. Someone
>before me went ahead and just painted right over it with a
>darker blue. As far as body work, there was a spot at the
>side of the bed around the wheel well that it seems they
>just slapped some filler on (a big glob of it) and painted
>over it.. well the filler is peeling off, with the paint,
>and underneath is rust.. what should I do about this? Just
>pull the chunk off and sand the rust off? Then put what on?
> Just curious.. afterwards Ill prolly spraypaint it a
>matching blue since I'm planning on a paintjob later this
>year
>
>2.) The frame of my truck has alot of built up dirt and
>sludge on it.. but a few spots are starting to rust
>underneath.. I've been told to have it sandblasted and paint
>over with rustoleum products.. any other suggestions?
>
>3.) I've got rust spots in my bumper in the front and back,
>what is the best way to deal with those?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 291
Likes: 0
From: Ephrata USA
Appearance Questions
about the frame rust....my newer pickup (1995) is rust free, since the guy before me had a diesel tank, and succeeded in spilling....alot it looks like. anyways, it made a nice watertight seal, at least so far, so um.if youre really hard up buy a few gallons of diesel :+
Mike
1979 F-100 302
1995 F-150 4.9L 4x4
Mike
1979 F-100 302
1995 F-150 4.9L 4x4
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
Appearance Questions
Check out this website, www.hirschauto.com for some information. They sell some excellent products. I painted my undercarrage with their paint, some pics in my gallery.
Primary rig is:
95' F-150 EB 300/6 5 spd with 4" Superlift, MSD, Ram Air, Gibson Exhaust, 32" BFG Muds
THERE ARE SOME PICS IN MY GALLERY!! :-)
Then theres:
88' F-250 Superduty 351 + c6
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 and a
3 spd column shifter. Top speed, 65mph, Go Baby Go!
The newest addition to the Ford family is a 99' Mustang GT 4.6L
Primary rig is:
95' F-150 EB 300/6 5 spd with 4" Superlift, MSD, Ram Air, Gibson Exhaust, 32" BFG Muds
THERE ARE SOME PICS IN MY GALLERY!! :-)
Then theres:
88' F-250 Superduty 351 + c6
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 and a
3 spd column shifter. Top speed, 65mph, Go Baby Go!
The newest addition to the Ford family is a 99' Mustang GT 4.6L
