I'm letting the guy who checked the codes fix this. I was just too intimidated looking under the hood.
Yes he says it was the retaining clip for the under valve cover harness. He ordered the clips, and now says the wiring harness is too brittle to hold the clip, or something like that, and that I need the new wiring. He hasn't checked the other side yet.

Does this make sense?????

 

You don't really have a choice at this point do you? Sure there's a chance he broke it and is trying to pull one over on you, but there's also a chance he doesn't feel comfortable providing a warranty on the existing parts. Labor is the biggest part of the job and I'm sure he doesn't want to pull the valve cover again.

One thing to note, the new updated harness should not require the shim, and if I recall correctly, the shims come in a pack of 3, so if you pay for the shims, be sure to get the spare parts. Maybe you'll run across a fellow FTE member who could use a shim.

 

Okay Guys, I learned my lesson. LISTEN TO YOU AND SAVE MONEY!!

I got my truck back today, and it's running great and much quieter after your advised retorqueing, I guess. I'm just over 600.00 poorer which I could've saved had I been brave enough to tackle the valve cover removals. I just felt I kinda got stuck with my truck at the mechanics while I had him read the code first (87.00), and didn't want to do any (further) damage trying to get it back home. He did wind up only needing one new under VC harness.....claimed it was too brittle to take a new retaining clip. The other was okay.....????

NOW..........he noted that he found a little oil in the turbo tubes...not too bad, but may need turbo work in the future.......WTF does that mean?

Also, he didn't change the fuel filter. He says the cap is on so tight (or crossthreaded) he'll either break his tool or will break the FF assy. I seem to recall the oil change place that replaced the filter last time DID put it on real tight claiming they've been known to vibrate loose. I don't believe it's crossthreaded....I watched it go on last time. Any suggestions?
Do I need to start a new thread about this?

Thanks everybody for the input on the VC job. You guys were RIGHT ON about the problem. I WILL follow your advice next time!!

 

NOW..........he noted that he found a little oil in the turbo tubes...not too bad, but may need turbo work in the future.......WTF does that mean?

That is normal from the CCV. Either he was trying to get more business or he did not know what he was talking about. Glad to hear you got it fixed.

 

Clean up and look at the black and blue rubber boot on the end of the turbo tubes. I believe they even say something about the tubes containing oil and this being perfectly normal. I'll agree that sometime in the next million miles or so the turbo will probably need to be rebuilt, but the oil in the tubes doesn't have anything to do with that. It's completely normal.

Next, what kind of tool did the mechanic try to use that he's afraid of breaking? The fuel filter lid is made of plastic. If it was cross threaded, it would have been leaking diesel since it was put on wrong. Get yourself a good oil filter wrench. The same size that fits our oil filter should also fit the fuel filter lid (depending on which style lid you have). Even a pair of pliers and a long screwdriver can be used to remove the lid. Worst case is you break the lid and are forced to buy the kind of filter that comes with a new lid, or just buy another lid.

A mechanic saying he can't get a plastic lid off for fear of breaking his tools would be like Jiffy Lube telling you they can't check the air in your tires because the little plastic cap on the valve stem is on too tight.

Keep your chin up though. I believe this is actually a blessing in disguise. You were too intimidated to pull the valve covers and it cost you a bunch of money. Now you're faced with a repair (changing the fuel filter) that your so called mechanic is unable to perform. We'll help you get the fuel filter changed, and once you've done something your mechanic was unable to do, you should feel better about tackling the next project by yourself.

Step one will be to remove the appearance cover over the fuel filter bowl. Do you have an oil filter wrench that will fit the lid?

 

Heck yes......I'm right there with you Chris!!! Let's get 'er done.

No I do not have a filter wrench. The FF that is installed is the type without a top, with a bunch of plastic segments in the top....nothing a wrench will fit into. I currently have a new cannister type replacement cartdridge, again with no top. I could exchange it. Pls tell me the type filter wrench to purchase and it is done tomorrow. I don't know what type he tried to use....it was a private place that does alot of diesel work (bus, emergency vehicle, etc) but he doesn't meet/talk to his customers...all through air-head secretary. It was my first and last experience with him. We NEVER spoke. Secretary......"he get perturbed about that as it takes away from his time working on vehicles". Unbelievable.

 

If you can post a picture it might help, but from what I'm gathering you have the older style lid that just has straight fins running from the center out instead of little squares in the lid.

If you have a LARGE pair of channel locks you can just open up the jaws and stick them in between the fins and use that to unscrew the lid. If not, grab a pair of regular pliers. Stick the handle part of the pliers down in between the fins so the gripping part of the pliers is pointing up. (this is after you have removed the appearance cover that says powerstoke from over the filter bowl).

Place your left hand on the gripping part of the pliers to hold them in place, then with your right hand, stick the longest screwdriver you own between the handles of the pliers. Hold the pliers with your left hand and push the screwdriver in a counter clock wise motion with your right hand to loosen the lid.

Something to keep in mind, if your replacement fuel filter has a beveled gasket, you'll need to lube the gasket with diesel fuel before replacing the lid. If the filter is a WIX filter and has a flat gasket, you'll need to lube it with motor oil. Here's a link to a simple filter change jsut for reference. http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/ffilter.php

 

Actually, the top of the filter is made up of triangles in the centermost "ring" and rectangles in the next and outermost ring, around the perimeter......(actually trapezodial but almost rectangles).
So, still do the pliers or channelock procedure?
Like I say I did see it put on extremely tight last time. Would heating the lid help, or would it be dangerous?

Thanks for your help, as usual. I WILL do this.

 

There are tools available that make removal of that filter cover a piece of cake.
Matco has one: part number MST6760.
It is a disk with teeth on both sides for doing both the 7.3 and 6.0 fuel filters.
3/8 socket drive in the middle.

 

I use a "Strap Wrench".

 

It is DONE!! No problems. The FF wasn't that tight......not sure what the guy was thinking.
Thank you everyone for all your help getting me through these couple problems. I owe you guys!!

My last problem (I hope), which I will start a new thread on, is a recent issue of water causing dampness on the passenger floor. I think it is from rain, rather than A/C since it's still dripping fine and problem is not happening from driving with A/C on. I also don't believe it's coolant. If I can solve this one, all will be good.