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I have a 05 super crew and I want to lift it. I read many posts about the level spacer and add leaf in rear which is tempting do to price. But what about the ride? I figured that a 4 or 6 inch lift would give a better ride. Anyway, my question is when do you have to adjust the rear gears and or trans when lifting the truck? I want to keep from breaking down on the road do to drive shaft pitch or factory gears not being low enough. Can I see your pictures?
I have an '05 screw with a 6" lift on it. Front is spring but the back is blocks. Rides pretty good and retains the factory weight capacity in the rear. I'm sure there are better (more expensive) ways to do it but mine seems to work just fine. I don't tow much more than a flatbed with a quad and a bike on it.
4" and 6" lift kits replace the shocks, but retain the OEM springs. so the ride is mostly like stock. Just depends on how good the shock is that comes with the kit.
also, most 6" lifts end up making the truck sit like a Bulldog. So most people use an add-a-leaf. This makes the rear-end alot stiffer. Alternatively you can install blocks.
I was woundering if you lift the truck with 4" and 35's should you change the gearing. If so I might as well go 6" with 35's. I don't want to break down on traveled distances.
on my 05 i had 35's with a 2.5in leveling kit ..i put 15000 miles on it no issue
what size lift you go with is up to you and how much you want to spend..also most all 6 inch lift require aftermarket wheels, in less you have the factory 20's
35 aren't really worth changing gears for, you should never have any issue and get back some power buy a programmer and then you can also change the speedo
I got 35's on my truck also. Its an '88 but same difference. The lift itself has no effect on anything but ride stiffness, its the tire size that does it. I got 3.55 gears in my truck. I think the newer ones come with 4.11 or something. Anyhow, my speedo is about 8 miles off and I hit a mile before my truck does. If I wanted to get back to a stock ride id need to upgrade to 4.56 gears in front and rear. Just some info....
So if I go with 33's with add leaf and spacer and stock rear gears then I should be OK on highway mile trips. If I go with 35's and a 4" likt kit then I should change the gear ratio? The other thing would be the pitch of the drive shaft and the universals going. I guess what I'm looking at is the best for the buck. I would like to go high and dry but not hung out to dry on the side of the highway
the lift kits are all well engineered. and after 4-5 yrs of use, they've been tweaked to remove the bad areas.
keep up on the maintenance, and you won't have any issues with it. As a matter of course, the u-joints are going to wear quicker due to the extra angle. but they are relatively cheap (<$20 each) and you should get 30,000+ miles from them each time.
I personally would buy the Rough Country 6" or the Pro-Comp 6" lift. Each is about $1,200. Tons of guys run them without any problems. They do however require aftermarket rims unless you have the 20" rims as silver05fx4 mentioned.
as for regearing, it's a matter of subjectivity. I personnaly would need 4.56 gears. But I'm very performance minded and gun the throttle alot. Most drivers are okay with the OEM gears + 35" tires.
I can say however that 4.56 gears about perfect for complimenting 35" tires in these trucks.
Guys who have done the swap have reported MPG's going back up in town. The 4.56 gears return your drive train final ratios to nearly stock.
btw, don't waste your time with a 4" kit. Superlift and Rancho offer them, but IMO they are pointless besides a 6" lift. 2" more inches is alot, and you'll be happy you have it.
btw, you can stack a 2" spacer ontop of your 6" lift and achieve 8" of lift...add-a-leaf in the rear and you can clear 37" tires easily
I dont know much about lift kits (suspension anyhow) so I could not give you any insight on the angles of suspension and driveline. But, with a 2" you shouldnt need to replace anything. As for the 35's, you dont <i>need</i> to replace the gearing. In my truck, the speedo cable is gear driven. I can get a new gear for the end of it for 15 bucks to calibrate my speedo. You probably need a computer to adjust it. I dont know how much my mileage is affected with the 3.55 but even if I got 3.72 or 4.11 it would do much better. But, as I said, the 4.56 will just get me back to stock spec with the big tires on it. My truck gets 9mpg but I dont know if thats due to all the engine screwups (caused by Ford) or the gearing.
[edit]As you can see, Tylus and I agreed on the gearing without even collaborating with eachother. He obviously knows more about the lift than I do.
I got a question. What happens if you regear for bigger tires to get economy back then you go back to stock tires but do not gear back? And will the 4.10's fit into a stock F-150 Dana 44? (front axle)
well its all in how high your gear up to 4.10 stock tire size no issue just a lose in highway mpg but 4.56 and stock tires you looking at like 3500 rpm at 65 on the highway give or take a little
i know for the 04 to 09 f150 front and rear you can get 4.10 4.56 and 5.?? as of last time i looked
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