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Kind of curious since it does not happen all the time, but could I have thrown a belt in my tire STR A is what I run or is this a known issue
Thought it was a balancing issue or bearing issue but bassically already ruled these 2 out.
Can anyone think of anything else.
Didn't think it would be a rotor warp
It sometimes shakes/jerks real bad and sometimes not at all
I am very confused???
I don't know what a str a is but it sounds like the dreaded spool valve in the steering box that might be cured by more PS pump pressure. I have a marathon thread on it in here. ( steering jerks back and forth etc.) Start by replacing the PS fluid if it smells burnt. How is your PS pump pressure? Does is make noise? Can you turn your wheel lock to lock stopped with foot off the brake? Does it give a little steering wheel resistance before it does it? Does it do it after you make a turn? Does your pump make a sshhh noise?
I saw your marathon but it doesn't ack like that it is not timed or anything, just does it when it wants to and stops when it wants to
Pirelli STR A is the type of tires I run, not sure if anyone had problems with them before, I also just noticed that only my front driverside tire is getting worn on the outside
Power steering fluid is pretty much fresh
I had an allignment done a couple of months ago and it was happening before that also, but tire seems to be still wearing
I am going to rotate the tires front to back tomorrow to see if that helps any.
I have been trying to figure this out on my own for a couple of months now since the Tomball steeler ship has a drop your truck off and wait hours or days since they have such a backlog of vehicles and first come first serve and I have 6 kids I have been watching this summer so not like I can do without a vehicle for any amount of time
just getting frustrating
update
just found another post about rotor warp
I think I am going to pull them and have them turned for a short term fix to see if that was the culprit
I have a big trip to MA from TX Tuesday so hope this fixes the problem
also plan on replacing the front tires and getting a new allignment done, one with a warranty from NTB to be on the safe side
"timed" was not a good choice of words on my part. If it does it once in a while it might be it. Does it go away after it starts? Does it dart left and right and out of your control?
update
just found another post about rotor warp
I think I am going to pull them and have them turned for a short term fix to see if that was the culprit
You haven't said, but does this only happen when the brakes are applied?
If so, go out and get the rotors good and warmed up by by dragging your brakes for a bit while driving down the freeway. Then accelerate up to 70 or 80 and do some quick, hard braking. Of course make sure you're safe and nobody else is behind you.
Do you get the shakes all the time when you brake hard like that, with the rotors heated up?
Shakes and jerks:
cold or hot rotors it does it
giving it gas, crusing or braking it does it
taking sweeping corners it does it
most noticable time is @ braking it really jerks cold or hot, but sometimes
it is really noticable when gassing it out of the neigborhood onto the main road
sometimes when it gets annoying when crusing I will hit some rumble strips on both sides of the road or hit those dummy dots in the middle and it goes away a little bit
sometimes it doesn't even do it
this is why I am so confused and think I may have thrown a belt in the tire, but I am going to hate shilling out 300+ just for 2 tires and then getting the rotor turned and nevermind all the other crap like balance, allignment and what not, crap this is getting expensive now that I look at it, new rotors??? wow killer since bearings and all..... ouch
It doesn't sound like the PS box now. I would find out what it is though instead of dumping money into parts to eliminate things. Hang in there ane someone will probably chime in with an solution.
NTB told me the hub needs work so I need to replace the bearings, so I went to advance auto parts got the bearings and seals and now in trying to replace them the seal is different than the original
the original has a flang that covers over the rotor however the new ones don't have this flange, tried going to a different store but started pooring out so my question is now
the replace ment is just a U type seal with rubber gasket without the flange, I plan on going to 2 different stores to try and match up the original but just wondering if they did away with the flang or not it is the piece sticking out in the picture
Repack your new ones with quality MOLY grease and use the proper torque sequence to seat the bearings. Just reuse that seal unless it is torn. They don't do much.
As far as the flange, I don't know I only used OEM seals.
BTW, your problems all along have been your loose front bearings. I have to service mine every 25K. Well...just retighten but I repack them when I'm in there.
I'll have to dig up the method but basically you seat it on the first turn, then spin the wheel, loosen it and torque it to like 11 then spin it again and torque it to 17 or something. Hell, I always did by feel after the second time.
NTB told me the hub needs work so I need to replace the bearings, so I went to advance auto parts got the bearings and seals and now in trying to replace them the seal is different than the original
the original has a flang that covers over the rotor however the new ones don't have this flange, tried going to a different store but started pooring out so my question is now
the replace ment is just a U type seal with rubber gasket without the flange, I plan on going to 2 different stores to try and match up the original but just wondering if they did away with the flang or not it is the piece sticking out in the picture
Where does that seal go? some seals are critical and some aren't some are just dust seals. Is that the knuckle seal? No spindle in 4x4. ........2WD?
2WD front dust seal that is on the backside of the rotor that holds the bearings in I finally found the right kind at NADA
the crazy thing is that when taking the whole thing apart the spindle nut I was able to take off by hand without a wrench after removing the cotter pin and nut cap just spun right off like it was not even torqued down, must mean that the bearings were shot
so now that I got it all together I am kicking myself saying why didn't I just get the rotors turned and put new pads on while I had it all disassembled. crap...... well we will see how it all works out
I still have a shake but not as bad as before and I have yet to have it jerk on me. tuesday I head to MA from Texas we will see how that goes
oh and thank you for helping me figure this out for the most part we will see lol