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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

alternator replacement

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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 09:31 AM
  #1  
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vantastic
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4wd Low
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From: DC Area
alternator replacement

I am in the process of replacing the alternator on my '94 E-150 with 4.9 inline 6. I got the damn thing out, but there MUST be an easier way... I had to move all the air pump plumbing, remove the fan shroud (I actually sawed it in half along the top portion to give me even more room) then pry the alt loose and wedge it in between blades of the fan to move it more towards the center of the radiator. I eventually had to remove the upper radiator hose (spilling about a gallon or two of coolant all over) and then muscle it out. I don't really want to go through all the contortions to get the stupid replacement back in. Has anyone else replaced their's and what's the trick to making it fit? It's RIDICULOUS how tight that space is!
 
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 12:46 PM
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rebocardo
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From: Atlanta GA
On many vans (really depends on year, a/c, emissions, etc.) with V-8s, I remove and install the alternator from the bottom. Did you try from the bottom?

As tough as you think that is, you haven't lived until you have removed an alternator on a an 1990s Aerostar 3.0L with A/C.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 03:45 PM
  #3  
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vantastic
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There's no room at all for it to come out the bottom with my setup. I did finally get the thing out, and then when I was replacing the new one I REALLY moved all the air pump plumbing out of the way and it fit right down in from the top behind the bracket. I guess when I was trying to get it out I didn't move the air pump hoses far enough out of the way.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 09:52 PM
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Well, the stock Motorcraft 2G alternator (which I believe you may have in a '94 E150) was a total piece of junk. It's got very low current capability, and is poorly constructed. The crazy thing is the ones with the plastic plug in back for the power, instead of a bolt-on stud. The plug melts easily, and now they recommend not plugging it back in but cutting the wires and replacing the plug after removing it more than once or twice.

The alternative is the 3G, which is about one of the best alternators made. It's slightly larger thus you may have to remove the engine bracket and grind the bracket down to fit a 3G, and you'll have to modify the wiring slightly. But it's got insanely high current capability, proper current-output bolt-on stud, and it's just a very reliable component. "Standard" 3G will do up to 130A, there are ones rated for up to 200A though. When you run a 130A alt at 20A, it stays nice and cool and basically lasts forever.

The 3G is also capable of high amps at idle, which is kinda unusual. Like 80 amps. The stock alternator can only put out a few amps, a bare minimum to avoid running down the batt.

It's worth it. You won't have to worry about having to replace an alternator on a trip 300 miles from home. It's unlikely you will ever need to replace it.

When my original 2G went out, I replaced it like 3 times with remanufactured units from 2 suppliers- and they all burned out in weeks.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 10:15 PM
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Dannym
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Hmmm.. the 1994 might have a 3G in it, but not all 3G were the 130A type. Some are only like 95A or even 75A.
 
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