no spark in run postion HELP!
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no spark in run postion HELP!
It all started after I wired my electric fuel pump to the hot wire that was already down thier going to my fuel tank splitter. everything worked so I moved truck to other side of driveway then next mornig it would not start. problem as stated below.
I have tried everything I can think of and others. I have spark in the start position. as soon as you let off key. no spark. if I leave key on all the way into start postion I can keep it running. but thats it let off key and it dies.
1. I have replaced ignition plug on column.
2. I had icm tested and it was good from O'riley's auto
3. I replaced distributor pick up moduel
4. I replaced all fuses in fuse box
what else is their???
I have tried everything I can think of and others. I have spark in the start position. as soon as you let off key. no spark. if I leave key on all the way into start postion I can keep it running. but thats it let off key and it dies.
1. I have replaced ignition plug on column.
2. I had icm tested and it was good from O'riley's auto
3. I replaced distributor pick up moduel
4. I replaced all fuses in fuse box
what else is their???
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Freshman User
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it tested good at auto parts. but I'm not sure I trust them. I guess I could go get another one and try it. maybe they will take it back if it is the same. I've had the same thought several time's since yesterday.
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okay I bought another icm and put it in. still the same, I'm not getting power to the icm. anyone no where power comes from to the icm. I replaced ingnition switch on column unless their is two? I have no idea where power comes from to icm??
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
It sounds like the Ballast Resistor on the run circut.
It's spliced in somewhere between the coil and the ignition switch on the Red/Lt. Green stripe wire.
You may have to remove the protective tape from the harness to track down and find the resistor.
You can hook up a temporary bypass using a jumper wire. Hook up a wire from a 12 volt source to the hot terminal on the coil. Start it. If it continues to run, the ballast resistor is bad and needs to be replaced.
Do not use the temporary bypass as a fix. It will destroy your stock coil. Only use the bypass wire to test.
Hope this helps.
It's spliced in somewhere between the coil and the ignition switch on the Red/Lt. Green stripe wire.
You may have to remove the protective tape from the harness to track down and find the resistor.
You can hook up a temporary bypass using a jumper wire. Hook up a wire from a 12 volt source to the hot terminal on the coil. Start it. If it continues to run, the ballast resistor is bad and needs to be replaced.
Do not use the temporary bypass as a fix. It will destroy your stock coil. Only use the bypass wire to test.
Hope this helps.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Remember though, aftermarket ignition modules have the start and run wires reversed to factory original wires.
On the Main truck harness, Factory Original wires.
Red/Lt. Blue is start.
White/Lt. Blue is run.
On the aftermarket module the colors are exactly opposite.
Red is Run
White is start.
Make sure the wires are hooked up correctly. If you are using a aftermarket module, then these color wires should be crossed at the connector.
It's still hooked up correctly, it's just the wire colors that change.
hopefully this makes sence.
Original Motorcraft modules do not have this weird wiring quirk.
On the Main truck harness, Factory Original wires.
Red/Lt. Blue is start.
White/Lt. Blue is run.
On the aftermarket module the colors are exactly opposite.
Red is Run
White is start.
Make sure the wires are hooked up correctly. If you are using a aftermarket module, then these color wires should be crossed at the connector.
It's still hooked up correctly, it's just the wire colors that change.
hopefully this makes sence.
Original Motorcraft modules do not have this weird wiring quirk.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Check the wiring between the ignition module and the ignition switch.
White/LT.Blue hash wire. Main harness wiring.
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thanks everyone!! I fianlly got truck running. it was white wire that wasn't working right. I guess it just took leaving it along for a night, and coming back with a fresh eye. I also hooked up my proqpane system. it runs better than gas does, no miss at all and I have a miss when I use gas. so that tells me I need a carb rebuild. also seems to be more economical with propane. which is against everything everyone has been telling me. so its a win win for today. thanks again for all the help
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