Just driving slowly, came up on a traffic light and stopped. Heard a clunk at the right front end. Same thing happened a little earlier. After I turned right, all of a sudden, the steering wheel pulls me left and something is blocking me from turning the wheel back. Though I lost the tie rod.

Managed to pull into a small parking lot to have a look underneath but couldn't see anything with only the headlights bouncing off a wall. Tried turning right again, couldn't and it seemed that the engine almost stalled as I was turning the steering wheel. Then, heard the clunk again and the steering was back. Limped home very slowly around some tight bends and when I got in, checked underneath and nothing jumped out at me.

Ball joints were replaced quite a while ago, so was the right hub, and the transfer case motor. I have about 189,000km (117,500miles) on it. Have had trouble with ESOF 4x4 in the past (2 transfer case motors - 1 was defective). Also have had some vibration that comes through on the left hand front end lately that I haven't had time to check in to.

I've been looking through the threads and it sounds like maybe the front U-joints or maybe even the steering box. I really don't have $3k to have a dealership do this. I am a little mechanically able having done brakes and upper balljoints on my car but this is a different animal. How hard is this to do for a regular guy? Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated.

Sorry, need to add: 1999 F250 - 5.4litre - 4x4 - crew-cab. Also, shocks are relatively new Bilsteins at all 4 corners.

 

Is this for the '99 F-250 listed in your profile? I do not have an answer for you (unfortunately), but that would help the gurus help you!

 

Forgot to add that - thanks very much for the reminder!

 

I would check u joints first, make sure one of the front ones isn't froze or broke.

 

Bubbasz1: I think someone posted a way to check the U-joints but I wasn't clear on whether you can do it the same way for ESOF or manual hubs?

 

All you have to do is jack one side of the truck up so a front tire is off the ground in the turned position. Now you can reach in and turn the u joint by hand or maybe a screwdriver at the most in the openings of the joint. It should turn smoothly and you should see the joint articulate itself as it turns. Check both sides, you don't have a posi up front so you can do one side at a time. I've never tried it with Ford hubs but I would imagine you can put the hub in manual lock like my Warn's and turn the U joints with the wheel, either way it should turn pretty smoothly.

 

Well, u-joints wouldn't keep you from turning one way and be free the other, it would be stiff in both directions.

If you have a steering stabilizer, remove it and see if that's the problem.

Otherwise, sounds like the power steering box, or more specifically the spool valve in the steering box.

 

Thanks Krewat. I had a dual setup installed a few years ago since the truck didn't come with any stock. I will remove over the weekend and let you know.

If it's the steering box, this isn't something a do-it-yourselfer is it?

 

Not really. The easiest way to deal with it is to get a rebuilt box.

But let's not jump to conclusions. See if the stabilizer is somehow involved, and then we'll work from there.

If you can get it to do it in your driveway, it might involve removing the draglink from the pitman arm and seeing if the front suspension can be moved back and forth by hand or if the box itself is stuck.

 

If the U joint is broke or in really bad condition it could exhibit the condition he is referring to. I had it happen in my Bronco.

 

Yeah, but only in one direction EVER?

 

So I removed the after-market dual steering stabilizers and took the truck for a drive up and down the driveway (too chicken to drive it on the road). Now I remember why I went for the stabilizers - steering very sloppy and truck never tracked tightly from new.

I could not replicate the problem I had BUT I did put it in 4x4HI and notice that on what seemed like every tire rotation, the wheel would turn to the right and then centre itself. I should say that the driveway is gravel so I'm not sure what importance this is.

I also cannot believe that I discovered for myself what everyone else was talking about regarding not being able to turn the steering with any significant pressure on the brakes while at a stand-still. The truck appears to slow its RMPs and while not close to stalling, it gives that impression the more I turned the wheel.

From looking underneath, I've got a pretty dirty truck and get it sprayed with Krown Rust Control annually so usually sloppy but I may have seen a drip of what looks like transmission fluid coming from general vicinity of power steering box. Steering fluid level is just above the MIN of cold mark. I cannot confirm how long its taken to get down to that level so I don't know if I am leaking or if the level has been there for a while although any loss would probably mean a leak? If the fluid got contaminated (not sure how), and/or crud got into the power steering box, this means the box is toast right or could replacing the fluid help? Grasping for the easy straws here assuming I don't have a leak.

Now, if my power steering box is bad, could this have already damaged the power steering pump? I'm not a mechanic but perhaps could handle the power steering box, but doubt I could tackle anything else. If I take it to the dealer they will destroy me - how do I even describe this problem since it isn't even occuring now. I am afraid a mechanic will start to go through and FIND things wrong.

Any help or recommendations would be appreciated greatly. Thanks

 

I would definitely check the u joints.

 

Yeah, it's starting to sound that way, especially if it's doing something weird in 4x4.

 

I've lifted her up, found that when I manually locked the hubs (ESOF) the U-joint was hitting the 90degree grease nipple on the upper ball joint.

Then, while in the process of trying to remove the nipple temporarily, I had someone turn the steering wheel to the right to get some space, but then the U-joint turned "BY ITSELF" such that it moved to the interference location with the grease nipple.

The other thing that I cannot understand at this point is that with the wheels turned to the right (haven't tried left yet), I cannot rotate the tire either in AUTO or LOCK mode. AND when I turn the wheel back towards centre, it gets somewhat easier to turn the tire BUT it also appears that the U-joint on the left wheel is also trying to turn, and at the same time, is somehow affecting the steering as I see the drag link moving!

I can't see this being siezed U-Joint on the right side since when the tires are straight, I can lock the hubs manually and (aside from the grease nipple interference), the U-joint turns fine. I will need to check out the left side but I am stuck also because I can't get enough clearance to remove the grease nipple. I need some help - anything would be appreciated.