Hi All,

I have a 1989 Shorty, 3.0L

My Right headlight had some moisture in it, and wasn't as bright as the right, so I changed both of them with new Bulbs... The left side was fine, but I was doing an upgrade to the style of bulb, and the new ones are the best in the sylvania line...

The Drivers side (Left side) looks the same as it always did, (better actually now) but the passinger side is not lighting the same way for some reason.

I tried another new headlight there, and same deal - same problem when the hi-beem switch is on... - so, it's like neither circuit is putting out 12V, or do they work together?

the other weird thing, is that I notice that the Hi Beam indicator in the dash dimly lights when the lights are on normal... and it does light up as it should, when they are on...

does anyone know of this problem? - the way I see/understand the circuit, is that it's 3 connections to each bulb - I'm assuming 1) ground 1) 12v to normal 1) 12v to Hi Beam filliment - is this right?

Does it sound like maybe the pass side contacts are not making good connections to the blades there? or how could I troubleshoot this easily? I could check the volts at the plug, what should they be at? 12V?

Also, as a side note/question - anyone know specifically the exact screw that holds the bezel onto the front of the headlight? - I had one missing (they take 4 each, as you might know already) seems like a common size - just wanted to ask in case anyone knows.

I really like the added side lighting of the new bulbs, at least from what the drivers side is showing - but I want these to be the same, obvously :-)

Thanks to all!

 

well. some tips....

Headlight switch and wiring are weak points of aero... and not only aero...
(Mercedes trucks have the same issues, especially if owner wants to upgrade bulbs up to 100-150wt).

So look for relay headlamp upgrade, use EU standard 20 amp relays with installed in them fuses (like Hella makes relays). Connect power supply wire to starter relay lug. Less voltage drop there. Use stock headlamp wiring to controll relays only.

Shorting headlamp on and hi bea, wires in steering column you will have low beam on when high beam is on!

if you wanna better light, do H4 headlamp conversion. H4 headlamps are used in Mexico... They fit aero well. Look for WV T2 headlamps (there were versions with square headlamps).






BTW! You can use HID! it is better!!!

 

Well, the switches seem to work as they should, meaning that the high beam is only on if I pull the switch, and then, they are on, and blue light on dash is on... and when on normal, it almost goes off, but not all the way :-)

Someone told me that H4's are not legal here, but doesn't matter anyways, since I like these that I bought, I just want to get the pass side to work right :-)

Are the two on the same circuit, and coming from the same relay? - worst case, could I just split off the other side that is good/working, and run 3 new 14 gauge wires across to the other side? or is that not a good idea, or?

Where do I find the relay (s)

Thanks

 

Your problem definitely sounds like a weak connection somewhere. The stock wiring comes from the switches and go to the left light first, then to the right light. Since it's affecting both high and low beams, it's most likely the ground wire. The problem with those old sealed beam type lights is that the electrical connections are completely exposed. They are also tabs or spades, with slip-on type connections that grip by friction. A lot of times they can get wet and corroded. You will have to carefully pull out the slip-on connections from the plastic connector body to clean them up, and maybe coat them with some kind of rust preventative.

You should be able to find the relays from any auto parts store. I think even Radio Shack sells them. They're about 1 cubic inch and has 4 or 5 tabs for connections. Some kits include an inline fuse. Instructions on how to install them have been posted on this forum; just do a search.

There are two types of screws that hold the bezels on; a pair of chrome screws with Tor-X heads that go into the holes on the sides, and 3 plastic "riv-screws" that thread into plastic inserts that are pushed into square holes in the metal work. There is one each on the top and bottom inside edge of the bezel, and another one (maybe 2) that holds the rubber gasket under the bezel to the metalwork from underneath. If you are missing any, you might try looking for them at your local scrap yard the next time you're there.

 

Hi,

I was hoping it was something easy like that - I think I can just buy a couple of new pig tails, that have both male and female 3 prong connectors on them (they act as an extension) but I could just cut the one that is there off, and splice a new one there, and see if that helps - easier than running a new cable of the 3 wires...

if it was a bad relay, I'd have nothing on the left side as well, on high or low beams, or one or the other, correct? - just wondering what the relay does in the circuit - seems like it switches to feed high or low?

It's not for ignition, because the lights have always come on and off, independent of the key even being in the ignition, which I actually like - you just have to remember to turn them off if the sun comes out on a rainy day... :-)

Moisture makes the most sense, since the sealed unit itself was soaked with beads of water inside, to the point where it was affecting the amount of light it would put out... which is what I thought the problem was...

as far as the screws, they are machine screws, and are phillips head, about 1/2 an inch long - I could just pull one, and match it at my hardware store... these are the 4 that hold the bezel to the actual headlight, so it doesn't fall out - the plastic ones were for the trim piece, and the two that were the torx were for the side of that corner piece (where the amber light is)

So, I don't need to replace the relay here, or I do? - bad ground sound more likely, but just wondering...

Thanks! :-)

 

The stock headlight wiring does not have any relays, and that is the source of problem in a lot of cases. The current drawn through the headlight switch is enough overheat it, and trigger its thermal shut-off. It usually happens when you most need the lights, but it does reset itself after it cools down again. But it can also trip again just as quickly.

Installing relays will run the high currents through the relay, instead of the factory wiring, headlight switch, and the hi/low switch in the steering column. The stock parts will be used to power just the relays, which take very little current, and the relays and new wiring you install with it will carry the high current to drive the lights. You will need one each for the low and high beams.

I just re-read your post, and noted you mention water INSIDE the sealed beam housings. That's not supposed to happen with sealed beam lights; that's why they're SEALED. It means the housing must have broken or cracked somewhere, allowing water to get in. But that's different from water getting to the electrical contacts and corroding them, which can happen completely separately from water inside the housing. The only exposed parts of the wire are where their connectors slide onto the spades on the light. For that, you might try cleaning them and applying something like LPS-3 onto the contacts to protect them from moisture. You can also spray LPS-3 onto the new pigtails you get.

Also, I just realized you were referring to the trim ring that holds the light bulb/housing to the adjustment cup. They are fine thread screws, and might be metric given the way the Aerostar is. But it would be easiest to take one to the local hardware store to find a match. It's easy to strip the holes in the cup that they screw into, and if you do, you will have to find the next size up.

 

If you think about HID conversion, you can reuse stock wiring, becouse HID unit is 35 wt only! and headlamps are not hot!

 

Actually, if you do an HID conversion, you will have to make some kind of wiring change to keep the low beams on when you engage the high beams. HID's do not like to be switched on and off too often, and they take about 30 seconds to stabilize when switched on. Of course, the HID kit you get can have its own high beam circuit. Which brings up the point that the Aerostar will need a conversion that has the high beam built into the same housing with the HID low beam.

Even though the HID lights are rated at 35 watts each, the ballasts are only about 80% efficient, so a pair of them draw about 90 watts, about as much as a pair of regular low beam halogen light. During the first 30 seconds of warm-up, they draw a lot more power, before they settle down to rated power. Add to that they have to stay on with the high beams, the load is actually higher than with plain halogen systems. So it's still a good idea to have relays to switch them.

 

I added two H7 low beam projector units in bumper. as donor I used wrecked Volvo FH V2. headlamp was broken, but projectors were OK.

.





Seems to me my aero headlams are twice brighter then stock ones!

H1, H7 are legal in the USA, not sure about H4. But I used to hear that USA aprooved EU headlamp standards.... It is funny in ex USSR US standard is legal, but in Germany 9007 bulbs are not legal and they use to convert them to H4. I had to convert my aero to H4 to drive to Germany.

Some headlamps is not so easy to convert to EU standard. Tausus headlams were taken appart and I had to change reflector as a unit. H4 fits new reflector well!

 

that would be a cool set up, Pablo, but if you run anything extra on a car or truck and it's not foggy out, they will pull you over - I couldn't believe this myself, but I have an Explorer too, and asked about using the fog lights all the time, and they said it's against the law if it's not foggy... I should have asked them "why, does it make me too visible?" - it's not like it would blind anyone... I tell ya, that MASS for ya!

I understand the concept of using the relays, and having them be triggered by the switches inside the van, to save the switches... but it can't be that bad of a design, since my van is 20 years old with the original switches and wiring. - granted, it's only got 135K on it, but still...

It was beads of moisture inside the bulb - my guess is that these units, over time, become less sealed than when they are new - I mean that bulb has to be 8 years old I'd say, and with all the rain and snow we get, and changes in temp throughout the year, it's more like condensation than anything else... air is pretty small :-)

I'm gonna order a pair of new pigtails today, and see if that helps the problem... the next step would be to splice from the good side, and run them to the right side then, which I hope I don't have to do, but we'll see I guess...

I think what I will see first, is if the High Beam dash light acts normal if I just disconnect the right side's bulb... but I only can see this if it's dark outside, since it's just a hint of blue there...

I bet those screws are metric threads as well :-)

Also, last question -

Is there a process or chart on here that would help me do a proper Headlight alignment? - or at least let me check it?

Thanks you guys!

 

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/BoschH4.html

Well, having H4 align them according ECE regulations and you'll be sure noone is blind with your headlight. H4 headlamps are not symmetrical. They let more light shine at pass. side and dr.side beam is lower. Hight beam is parallel to horyzon.







It is really funny that there are no regulations about fog lamps. no power limit, but usually they are 55-65 wt. You will not find brighter then 100 wt bulbs. So they are not designed like driving lights. Yes, I have low beam units and I do not blind anyone if I use them as driving lights (they have headlamp pattern), but usually aftermarket fog lamps are like high beam lamps but should be aligned lower.

About rules... what rules say?

Fog lights
* Designed to improve visibility of the road directly ahead of the vehicle in fog or hazardous weather conditions where visibility has been reduced.
* Front fog lights can emit either a white or yellow light. Rear fog lights must emit a red light.
* Rear fog lights are installed to make a vehicle more easily visible from the rear in fog, mist or hazardous conditions and should be wired independent of the car's other lights.
* Fog lights have a low, flat, wide beam that is meant to illuminate the road below the fog or mist.
* Switch off your fog lights once visibility is clear as they can blind other drivers.

 

I think the fog light issue here is a state law - if you are caught with them on at night, and it's not foggy, you could get pulled over - doesn't matter how bright they are - stock lights, etc...

I've always hated driving lights myself, and thought those a waste - who needs light at 12noon on a nice sunny day? - but they claim it helps being noticed? - I'd love to run 4 lights all the time like you show - but on a clear night, it's asking for a cop to write a ticket, and it's a moving violation, so it goes on your insurance too... nice MA!

 

Onese cop pulled over me driving with fog laps only in the center of city, there were many light poles there... and having low beam pattern fog lamps I saw all well..... he wanted to give me a ticket.... ))) ####!!!!! nobody loves road cops.....!

 

Mediaman, I think you are talking about daytime running lights; they run the high beams at half power whenever the car is turned on. Driving lights are different; they're supposed to help with distance illumination. You should obviously shut them off when there is on-coming traffic, so usually you wire them to come on only with the high beams. Would cops in MA ticket you if you used driving lights? I've driven parts of Winchester and Chelmsford at night, and I know I could have used a lot more lights than what was available on my rental car.

Check out some light patterns on my lighting modification site: geocities.com/eycchu

The modifications were made on my Mustang, but the H4 lights are now on my Aerostar. (The Mustang has the HID setup now.) The H4's are not DOT approved for passenger cars because they do not have the 3 little nubs on them that allow the use of a standard aiming tool, but they are approved for motorcycles for some reason.

 

I see these 3 nubs and I cant understand how they are used?
when I align headlamps, I move reflector only, but glass may have any position!!!!

okay! seems to me they will aproove them soon. IMO.... EU headlamp standard is better. I do not use any arguments we all read... I used to drive vehicles with EU and US headlamps and I can surelly say, EU headlamps are better... really better.

About HID. Who do not like HID? Only drivers who have no HID. I agree that it is better to use HID with projector type headlamps (H7, H1 are considered too old).... Less risk of blinding.