I'd run another round of MC 5w-20 blend if I were you then change it after 3k miles or so. Should put you do for a change before it starts getting cold then switch to a full synthetic if you want. I wouldn't get stuck on a particular brand of full synthetic either the major brands are all very good as is MC 5w-20.

 

The Ford tech at the dealer I bought the truck at told me Ford does not recomend synthetic oil in the engine ?

 

I have never heard that! my Ford dealer sends a flyer with specials and a synthetic oil change is one of their specials (probably valvoline synpower since they use Valvoline for all their oil changes). With a Quality Dino oil versus synthetic I am on the fence if it realy makes any difference.
For the last 30 years I have used 5000 mile oil changes and whatever brand oil and filter (right oil grade and part number filter) is on sale I have never had any issues that can be remotely associated with oil. and most of my vehicles get sold or traded at the 200,000 mile marker. By that time the rest of the car is falling apart.

I think Mobile 1 says you get a 2% improvement in MPG when switching to synthetic.
On my car with using the GM oil life monitor and 7500 mile oil changes that would be a saving of $15 per oil change which would pay the difference between dino and synthetic. On my V10 that gets an oil change every 6 months or 5000 miles, it would save about $16 every oil change (3500 miles is normaly every 6 months)

 

That's rich! Sounds like a dealership just made a large commitment to a vendor of non-synthetic oil!

Seriously folks. With the quality of modern metals, machining, and oils, ANY modern name brand, muliti-grade oil of just about any weight will do perfectly fine in these engines (under normal conditions) for a very, very long time. Well, maybe not a cheap non-synthetic 20W50... but you know what I mean.

Sub-zero temps are an exception. And consistently running it on the verge of melting down would be an exception.

 

Oh, what does the geek engineer run?

Napa full synthetic 5W20 (AKA, Valvoline). Got a bunch on sale for $2.99 per quart.



Unless I can get (synthetic) 5w30 or 5w40 or 10w30 cheaper....

 

Tell that to all of the Cobra R, Ford GT and Shelby GT500 owners that have factory spec'd 15W-50 and 5W-50 Modular V8s, all with the exact same diameter oil return holes and cam journal clearances as every other Modular ever made.

Running a 40-weight in a Modular will cause NO harm, and I really wish people would quit spreading these urban myths. Heavy weight oils do not harm Modulars any more than any other engine.

 

• I strongly suspect that a new V10 ships with conventional oil, but Ford is not adverse to using synthetic oil in a V10...more on that below.
• Switching over to synthetic with the first oil change is an option. There are plenty of arguments for the "correct" timing of that switch.
• The worth of synthetic oil is equally debatable. Personally, I think that synthetic oils have come a long way in the past decade or so, and are now very well positioned to rival, if not completely surpass, the performance(s) of conventional oils. I also believe that the current synthetics could to some extent pay for themselves with their [generally] superior cleaning & lubricating abilities. After all, a motor with less wear & cleaner internals should last longer.
• There are some synthetic blends which are designed for longer intervals between changes. I cannot say whether or not they work. In my opinion, a couple quarts of oil are much, much cheaper than an engine. I would just as soon change the oil than bank on an oil manufacturer's claim that their synthetic blend <i><insert product="" name=""></insert></i> will last 7,500, 10,000, or more miles.
• You can use the same oil filter with synthetic oils.

Nothing against that Ford tech, but he is obviously not fully versed in the subject.

Per the 2009 Super Duty Owner Guide (3rd Printing), page 406 in the "Maintenance Product Specifications and Capacities" section:You can reference footnote #6 on page 408. It states:

 

And you know all that how? How many modulars do you have and how many miles are on them with over 40+wt oil? How many have you tore down after extensive mileage with the heavy weight oil? Its fairly easy to piece together that the people who comes here with valvtrain isuues or oil flow problems most of the time are not running 5w-20 or 5w-30 oil. What exactly is the gain to running a heavier weight oil besides a slightly quieter engine?

Thoses 3 cars mentioned (Probably run require a full syn too) don't see operating conditions and temperature variations even close to a 5.4l or 6.8l in SD. Like comparing an apple to a turnip.

Redwing22 reports the engines ship out with MC blend.

 

I have personally owned 6 Modular V8s LONG TERM. I have been inside MANY TIMES that number. I've been inside Modular V8s that have experienced nearly every use, be it heavy hauling, racing, daily driving, autocrossing, you name it. I also know that Modulars have been MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDED to run 50-weight oils in North America, I also know that Modulars are MAUFACTURER RECOMMENDED to run 40-weight oils outside of N/A. What are the clearance differences between the 20-weight Modulars and the 50-weight Modulars? Not a damn thing.

If 40 and 50 weight oils are so detrimental to Modulars due to these nonexistent "tight clearances" (not tolerances), then explain Ford spec WSS-M2C931-B, which calls for a 50-weight oil in certain Modular V8s. Also, regarding the Modular's small oil return oils, clearly you are not someone that has been inside many engines period, much less many Modulars. The Modular's oil return holes are not small.

So, how many Modulars have you been inside of, how many have you seen fail due to lubrication related failure with 40-weight oils? That is a rhetorical question BTW, because I already know the answer to it.

Do you think you know more than the engine systems engineer for to 2003 Aviator 4.6 4V and the 2005 Mustang 4.6 3V? A guy that has seen engine teardowns of DOZENS of Modular engines run on various weight oils during OEM durability testing? Do you really think you know more than this guy?

Look for posts by Scott Whitehead (swhiteh3): http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36607

Yes, that's right, a guy that knows these engines inside and out not only recommends 30 & 40 weight oils for Modulars, but states he would NOT run 20-weight oils in them. His basis for these statements,? ACTUAL ENGINE TEAR DOWNS. What is your basis for saying a 40-weight oil will "clog oil passages"? Urban myth.

40-weight oils WILL NOT HURT A MODULAR, period! Please quit spreading urban myths that have no basis whatsoever in reality, please stop providing BAD TECH!

 

Read post #23 in this thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Houstonnw
Steve Bassen asked about the 5.4L 3V motors and I'm interested in the 4.6L 3V motors. I understand that the variable valve timing is based on the engine tolerances and I would assume, the oil viscosity.

So hes recommending 5w-30 to 10w-40 depending on operating temp. 5w-30 for mixed temps. Swhiteh3 didn't seem to want to go into detail his findings. If you come across any of his posts where he goes into detail about his finding I would be interested in reading them. I'm Repping you for the link.

I just asked those questions to see if you'd post some info. I appreciate the link, would have been helpful if you posted it in your first post. I might try 5w-30 but don't plan to go any heavier in my truck because there are a lot of high mileage motors out there running 5w-20 also. Gets a little cold here during the winter too.

 

Ding! Everybody please read Big Bad's post 2 to 100 times until you freaking get it. The Internet , mechanics ,dealers and 99.9 percent of the world only knows misconceptions and the sales pitch about oil. I talked to the Mobil One's oil lab and they told me to run 15W50 Extended Performance in anything below the Arctic Circle. Synthetic is many times greater than Dino oil and if you have a coolant failer or a number of other extream conditions you will be glad that real synthetic was in your engine. And beware that 3/4's of all so called synthetic is made from hydro cracked mud. Technically it's a man made or synthetic oil because they make it from tar sand and only because of a lawsuit they won can they call it synthetic. Even mobile has a cheaper line of oil thats not called Extended Performance so they can compete in the 5 buck a quart arena. Regardless of what oil you run the important chemicals that do what oil is supposed to do are all used up by 3000 miles so change what every you run often. Running any oil longer or with the blessing of an oil analysis or extra filters is a bad plan.
If you are under warranty then beware and run the recommended weight oil. Ford does an oil analysis on every engine thats in for warranty claim. You don't want them to charge you for an engine that has a lesser grade or a different weight than they recommend. After warranty then run the real oil and that would be Mobil One 15w50 Extended Performance or one of the high end real synthetics like Amsoil.Redline Klotz. Royal Purple may be good but those *******s have no certification and won't even tell you whats in the purple bottle. I say forget that. Tell me whats in it or I'll never buy it.

 

I run Castrol 5-30 in my 1998 V-10 in my Class C E-Superduty.

I have run Val - Full Syn and blends, M-1, Royal Purple, and have found all make my engine rattle at startup like nobodys business.

With Castrol - Quiet as new.

Filter is either MC orig or Puro Pure One because both are basically the same anti-drainback design filter plus well made.

 

I knew this thred would open a can of worms. As I said in post #16 and #27 all of the motors we test on the dyno have 5w40 in them, as that weight oil holds up better under stress and heat. oil sheer is also reduced. I personaly run ROTELLA 5W40 winter and summer with no adverse effects. Thanks for putting in your 2 cents, as people are passing up some great oil because of some old wives tale.

 

Hey Redwing...LOL thats why when I went to the Dr.'s HE started to tell me bad news... I made him stop, and just tell me what I need to do to correct it... Its amazing what happens with even the slightest info.

I hope you guys are crankin them out over there

Why Ford... WHy Now... WHy not!!!!

 

Wish I could rep you again but I have to wait.