Electrical gremlins... HELP!!
Here's how it started. I was changing some bad connections on my aftermarket off-road lights and went to get a butt connector, leaving the lights ON and 2 wires dangling. My guess is that they came into contact with the bumper, causing a short somewhere.
The first effect: Obviously, foglights/off-road lights do not work. I wired the off-road lights to come on with the foglights and now neither will work, nor will the 'foglight on' indicator light on the headlight switch come on.
Second effect I notice: Instrument cluster does not work! It illuminates with lights on, but no gauges or odometer working.
Here's where it begins to get weird...
It stayed like this for a few hours, with only the instruments and foglights not working. Then, on the way home, if I go to roll up my window, or turn on my high beams, or move my power seat, the radio cuts out for a split second. Also, instrument/dash lights look dimmer than usual. And, if I put the pedal to the floor from a stoplight, it acts like it is running out of gas for a few seconds, and if I put the pedal to the floor while moving, it seems to slip in and out of lockup or rev like in neutral (both sometimes).
I get home and put a multimeter to it, and the battery reads 11.30 volts, same thing at the alternator. It now won't start, starter solenoid just clicks. Battery is totally dead!
I checked fuses, swapped around relays, and nothing is helping! Is this just a strange string of coincidences, or did this all happen because 2 wires on my off-road lights caused a short by contacting the bumper??
I'm great with a wrench, but alot of this electrical stuff is way over my head. And this truck is not going to a shop for repairs.
HELP PLEASE!! There was never a single issue with the electrical before this.
Now I'm kicking myself for not leaving well enough alone!!
One thing that I am thinking is that you "may" have polarity on the new lights reversed and current is leaking to ground through the lights. It may not blow thw fuse because the lamp is acting as a resistor. Just a shot in the dark.
I have to run out for a couple of hours but will check back to see when I get back in.
I see that you went to Umass Amherst. Where in MA are you located. I am in Raynham for the time being.
One thing that I am thinking is that you "may" have polarity on the new lights reversed and current is leaking to ground through the lights. It may not blow thw fuse because the lamp is acting as a resistor. Just a shot in the dark.
I have to run out for a couple of hours but will check back to see when I get back in.
I see that you went to Umass Amherst. Where in MA are you located. I am in Raynham for the time being.
I live in Orleans, on Cape Cod.
I have not thought to check the polarity on the lights for reversal but I will do so now as I'm going out to check it out further. I want to get this squared away tonight.
As for the fuses, I have been checking them visually but I will with the meter. I noticed today that my #115 fuse, a 20A Maxi that is for "Trailer Tow Battery Charge" is blown. What does "trailer tow battery charge mean"?
2 wires hanging somewhow grounded, not for a second but enough to melt wires back further in the loom. Your fuse blew but it was the type that resets after it cools.
When those wires grounded, it overloaded the grounds, maybe corroded ect, causing electricity to feed back threw ultimatly over loading the alternator, along with other systems. Grounds arent fused so a surge can get threw. Or when the 2 wires hangin grounded they sent power back threw




