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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 07:23 PM
  #1  
Nick2005f250's Avatar
Nick2005f250
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Spark plugs

Im in the prosess of buying new plugs for my 2005 f250sd 5.4L any suggestions?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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bill11012
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From: Texas
Welcome to FTE nick!
I use motor craft.
aftermarket plugs can blow out or crack.
This is in the wrong forum, it should be it the Super duty forum.
this is just to talk about the ranger/F100 for 2011.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 09:17 AM
  #3  
edjunior's Avatar
edjunior
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From: Roman Forest, TX
I used the same plugs I pulled out of my motor. Motorcraft plugs. They ones I pulled out lasted 105,000 miles...I see no reason to doubt them!
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 09:27 AM
  #4  
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I'd go with the plugs with the 1pc body so they won't break off as easy. (Since you have a 3V)
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 03:08 PM
  #5  
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Buy the Champions, they are a 1 welded 1 piece design, they won't seperate like the Motorcrafts or Autolites. Follow the TSB for the plug removal for these engines, you will also need some High Temp Anti-seize(Stainless Steel). One thing I did before changing my plugs I ran Marval Mystry Oil in every tank of gas, for a month prior to changing them. Every plug came out very easy. Some people over on the F150 side have done this trick also, with the same sucess. The marval Mystry Oil disolves carbon, wich is the problem with removing the original plugs, causing the lower shell to be glued into the head with the carbon.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 05:48 PM
  #6  
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Whats the Champion part number please?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 05:49 PM
  #7  
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How much of that oil did you put in every tank, I've used that on other things it works pretty darn good
 
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 07:00 PM
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+1 on the Mystery oil. I would use a lot, after all you are only trying to clean up plugs before removal (very important). Then before removing blast with air, apply penetrating oil, and back out a couple threads then oil again. Engine temp is controversial (I say luke warm). If you don't do it like this it can cost hundreds of dollars to have it fixed. (3 valve motor).
 
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 07:05 PM
  #9  
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-1 on the champions. i wouldnt put anything but motorcrafts in that engine. there are no reports of any metal separating from eachother. the ceramic will break just as easy as any other plug. i use champions in my lawnmowers!
 
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 07:16 PM
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Isn't the metal grounding strap coming apart from the plug a metal separating issue? My understanding is this is the most common problem and the champions don't have it. Obviously the ceramic breaks sometimes and that could be with any plug for sure, but only if you are careless should that break, just my thoughts I may be wrong.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 08:12 PM
  #11  
EXv10's Avatar
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From: Mt. Shasta California
Originally Posted by fordman200682
Isn't the metal grounding strap coming apart from the plug a metal separating issue? My understanding is this is the most common problem and the champions don't have it. Obviously the ceramic breaks sometimes and that could be with any plug for sure, but only if you are careless should that break, just my thoughts I may be wrong.
I think you are right. The metal itself breaks. Do a search, it is all in here.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 08:35 PM
  #12  
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I read that there is a tool to remove the broken plug. Lisle 65600 is the tool, I was going to buy one and throw it in my tool box just in case but my 04 does not use the long plugs. It might be something for you to keep handy, there is a pretty good chance you could need it.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 10:28 PM
  #13  
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From: Texas
Just how common are plug problems?
My V10 has never had one.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 10:37 PM
  #14  
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Mustang6147
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I have heard, this plug problem can happen, It is my understanding, you must first start with a cold engine, (leave it sit overnight) The remove coils, and just crack the plugs (1/4 turn or less, then soak them in ford intake cleaner (stp throttle body cleaner might work also) Then slowly unscrew, them... at the first sign of resistense, stop, turn them back in a bit, then try to turn them out again...

It is my understanding, The threads actually screw in the cylinder, and those threads that are exposed, get carbon build up on them, along with the steel plug, against the alluminum head, and that is what causes the resistance, and possible plug seperation. This issue was corredted in 07.

I was told, when putting new plugs in... Put a small amount of anti seize on the threads (carfull not to contaminate the electrode) This will keep the alluminum/steel from doing there thing... Good luck

When it is my time, I am going to use "Autolight" It has been my experience, that Fords dont like Champion...
 
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 11:31 PM
  #15  
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boots6868
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Been there fellas@!#. I had an 04 fx4 150 w/5.4 3valve. and i broke my plug on the drivers side back, what a gut wrenching feeling when you remove 1/2 the plug. I even followed the tsb. well cept for the aero kroil I used pb blaster. I got lots of aero kroil now!! i buy it by the case! lol
Fact is the motorcraft plug seperates in two pieces the threaded portion and the lower plug grounding shell. that shell is indeed what gets carbon around it and gets tight, not the threads. when installing the new plugs ford advises using Nickel Anti Seize on the grounding shell only and only the sides that come in close contact to the hole in the head. Not to be used on the threads. I could go on for another hour the process i used to get the shell and porcelin out without removing the head, I wont it brings bad thoughts of bing drinking to mind...
 
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