Doing Oil Change
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Doing Oil Change
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 24-Jul-02 AT 06:53 AM (EST)]Hello everyone.
I'm going to change the oil in my dad's truck today and I need some help.
1st: I went and bought Fram filters and PCV valve.
Now, I was reading some post's and it seems that no one likes Fram.
Suggestions then, I can go and return them.
2nd: What oil to use? and How much?
The specs that I know are:
1986 F150 XLT V8 5.0L FI 99555Miles
The engine bay is missing the labels and I don't know how much oil to put in.
3rd: I have $24 dollars to spend on oil and filters
4th: If anyone has the engine specs that would be great.
Thanks
I'm going to change the oil in my dad's truck today and I need some help.
1st: I went and bought Fram filters and PCV valve.
Now, I was reading some post's and it seems that no one likes Fram.
Suggestions then, I can go and return them.
2nd: What oil to use? and How much?
The specs that I know are:
1986 F150 XLT V8 5.0L FI 99555Miles
The engine bay is missing the labels and I don't know how much oil to put in.
3rd: I have $24 dollars to spend on oil and filters
4th: If anyone has the engine specs that would be great.
Thanks
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Omaha USA
Doing Oil Change
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 24-Jul-02 AT 11:53 AM (EST)]See this link for some good oil filter info:
[link:www.minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html#b2|Oil Filter Study]
Click on the "Oil Filters Overview" link at the bottom of the page for recommendations.
Like you said, be good to avoid Fram filters - my opinion is use Baldwin, Purolator Premium Plus, or Purolator PureOne, but there are other good ones also, see the study. I bought 4 Purolator Premium Plus's for $2.50 each the other day, they are cheap and the study rates them "OK" .
This time, since you've already got it, IF this oil filter mounts vertically upward, you could go ahead and use the Fram filter - in my opinion, Frams only cause REAL problems when you are relying on their drainback valve to keep oil in the filter - like on a sideways or down mounting filter. If the filter mounts sideways or downward, probably better exchange it. I actually used Frams for quite a while before I found out about them, so did my brother.
For oil, just pick a good, name-brand, regular, non-synthetic motor oil (I use Castrol GTX). With your budget you want to keep this cheap and with the 99,555 miles, I probably would not risk switching to synthetic oil because you could get some oil seegpage or leaks. In the cooler months, my opinion is use 10w30, but for the summer, my opinion is use 15w50 or 20w50 in a truck with a few miles on it - you'll want to change it back to 10w30 for the winter, though. If you don't want to mess with different oil weights, just say "screw-it" and use the 10w30.
In my opinion, THE MOST IMPORTANT THING is change the oil&filter every 3000 (maybe 3500) miles, not what oil&filter you put in it. If you were using a fully synthetic oil (like Mobil 1) and a hi-capacity oil filter, then you could go around 6000 to 7500 miles on a oil&filter change.
I would bet the 5.0 takes 5 qts of oil, so start with this. When your done running it a few minutes, stop the motor, let it sit a few minutes so most of the oil drains back to the pan, and check the oil to be sure. It's always a good idea to do this anyway, just to be sure you weren't absent minded about something.
Four last fundamental pointers:
1. When you take the old oil filter off, always make sure the oil filter gasket comes off with it. If it sticks on the motor, then just pull it off and disgard it. Then wipe the oil filter sealing surface on the engine clean (do this anyway).
2. If your oil filter mounts vertically upward, pre-fill the new oil filter up to about 80-90% full with new oil before you carefully lift it up into place and screw it on. This way, the oil pump doesn't have to fill the oil filter before it starts pumping the new oil out to the motor - you will get oil pressure much quicker. Also, put a little oil on the new oil filter gasket. Obviously, you can't pre-fill oil filters mounted in a way that the oil you poured in the filter would run out when your trying to screw it on.
3. Don't overtighten the oil filter, tighten it as much as the instructions on the box tell you to.
4. After changing the oil and filter, always be sure to look underneath and check for leaks right away after you start it back up.
Have fun and when your done, have yourself a pop. You probably knew most of this stuff, but there it is anyway.
[link:www.minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html#b2|Oil Filter Study]
Click on the "Oil Filters Overview" link at the bottom of the page for recommendations.
Like you said, be good to avoid Fram filters - my opinion is use Baldwin, Purolator Premium Plus, or Purolator PureOne, but there are other good ones also, see the study. I bought 4 Purolator Premium Plus's for $2.50 each the other day, they are cheap and the study rates them "OK" .
This time, since you've already got it, IF this oil filter mounts vertically upward, you could go ahead and use the Fram filter - in my opinion, Frams only cause REAL problems when you are relying on their drainback valve to keep oil in the filter - like on a sideways or down mounting filter. If the filter mounts sideways or downward, probably better exchange it. I actually used Frams for quite a while before I found out about them, so did my brother.
For oil, just pick a good, name-brand, regular, non-synthetic motor oil (I use Castrol GTX). With your budget you want to keep this cheap and with the 99,555 miles, I probably would not risk switching to synthetic oil because you could get some oil seegpage or leaks. In the cooler months, my opinion is use 10w30, but for the summer, my opinion is use 15w50 or 20w50 in a truck with a few miles on it - you'll want to change it back to 10w30 for the winter, though. If you don't want to mess with different oil weights, just say "screw-it" and use the 10w30.
In my opinion, THE MOST IMPORTANT THING is change the oil&filter every 3000 (maybe 3500) miles, not what oil&filter you put in it. If you were using a fully synthetic oil (like Mobil 1) and a hi-capacity oil filter, then you could go around 6000 to 7500 miles on a oil&filter change.
I would bet the 5.0 takes 5 qts of oil, so start with this. When your done running it a few minutes, stop the motor, let it sit a few minutes so most of the oil drains back to the pan, and check the oil to be sure. It's always a good idea to do this anyway, just to be sure you weren't absent minded about something.
Four last fundamental pointers:
1. When you take the old oil filter off, always make sure the oil filter gasket comes off with it. If it sticks on the motor, then just pull it off and disgard it. Then wipe the oil filter sealing surface on the engine clean (do this anyway).
2. If your oil filter mounts vertically upward, pre-fill the new oil filter up to about 80-90% full with new oil before you carefully lift it up into place and screw it on. This way, the oil pump doesn't have to fill the oil filter before it starts pumping the new oil out to the motor - you will get oil pressure much quicker. Also, put a little oil on the new oil filter gasket. Obviously, you can't pre-fill oil filters mounted in a way that the oil you poured in the filter would run out when your trying to screw it on.
3. Don't overtighten the oil filter, tighten it as much as the instructions on the box tell you to.
4. After changing the oil and filter, always be sure to look underneath and check for leaks right away after you start it back up.
Have fun and when your done, have yourself a pop. You probably knew most of this stuff, but there it is anyway.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Omaha USA
Doing Oil Change
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 24-Jul-02 AT 06:01 PM (EST)]If you want to know more, you can venture into the following dark holes of oil and oil filter mania:
[link:www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lubrication-oilpart1.htm|SHOClub.com Presents: Oil and Oil Filters 101, Parts 1 through 5]
[link:www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lubrication-oilpart6.htm|SHOClub.com Presents: Oil and Oil Filters 101, Part 6 (update)]
:-staun
[link:www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lubrication-oilpart1.htm|SHOClub.com Presents: Oil and Oil Filters 101, Parts 1 through 5]
[link:www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lubrication-oilpart6.htm|SHOClub.com Presents: Oil and Oil Filters 101, Part 6 (update)]
:-staun
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