5.8 bronco wont start
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
5.8 bronco wont start
My son started his 1995 BRONCO and the check engine light came on. So he turned it off and tried to restart it. Now it has fuel but no spark at the distrbuter. I checked the coil and compared ohm's with my 1992 that is still working and the were the same. My code reader says 121 and 565, PLEASE HELP.
THANKS
THANKS
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 1
No spark at the ditributer... I am guessing that , that meens coil wire correct? Is the power going to the coil when key is on?
Does that distributer have that big plug on the side, , cuz that is what it sounds like... I think it is a mudule. But I would trace power back as far as you can
Does that distributer have that big plug on the side, , cuz that is what it sounds like... I think it is a mudule. But I would trace power back as far as you can
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,023
Likes: 0
121 = Closed throttle TPS voltage higher or lower than expected.
Sounds like a bad TPS, its at the bottom of the TB which will need to be removed.
565 = Canister purge circuit failure
I think this relates to the little device thats mounted beside the EGR. It has a vaccum line that connects to the left side of the TB and the other side goes to the charcoal canister which is to the right and below the battery on top of the framerail.
Sounds like a bad TPS, its at the bottom of the TB which will need to be removed.
565 = Canister purge circuit failure
I think this relates to the little device thats mounted beside the EGR. It has a vaccum line that connects to the left side of the TB and the other side goes to the charcoal canister which is to the right and below the battery on top of the framerail.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,007
Likes: 5
Do you have spark at the spark plug? Will the engine start with starter fluid in the air intake box?
No spark, look at distributor and ignition control module.
Starts with starter fluid, look to fuel pressure, fuel pump, fuel regulator, fuel filter.
No spark, look at distributor and ignition control module.
Starts with starter fluid, look to fuel pressure, fuel pump, fuel regulator, fuel filter.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 1
While I agree with your G-K I dont like the starting fluidthing... I would reccomend gass sprayed in the air intake the turn it over. Starting fluid is bad stuff.
If it is the tps just unplug it, It will run just at a Higher RPM. If that is it, Problem solved.
I kind think it is a module though from his description.. It will be intresting to see
If it is the tps just unplug it, It will run just at a Higher RPM. If that is it, Problem solved.
I kind think it is a module though from his description.. It will be intresting to see
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,007
Likes: 5
The starting fluid creates a problem because it washes the oil off the cylinder walls, I think. So I wouldn't recommend it other than a troubleshooting method and it's already available ready to go, while the gas sprayed in the air intake would have to be rigged up.
I think that the reason starting fluid is used is because it vaporizes easier than gas does. The point is that it's a troubleshooting step to narrow down the complexity modern engines.
I think that the reason starting fluid is used is because it vaporizes easier than gas does. The point is that it's a troubleshooting step to narrow down the complexity modern engines.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
I unpluged the tps and it still did not try to start. The coil had voltage when key was turned to on position. I am leaning toward the distributor but i was wanting as much advice as i could get.
Thanks to all.
Thanks to all.
Trending Topics
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
Did your son mention anything about the way the engine was running just before he shut it down? I only ask because it could shed a little more light on this issue.
I am assuming it cranks but won't turn over. The codes you mentioned shouldn't be cause to keep the truck from starting. And since you can't get it running, the KOER test is out of the question. Are you certain you are getting spark from the coil? Never hurts to shove a screwdriver into the coil wire and check for it while someone cranks the engine for you. (Be careful... hold the screwdriver BY THE HANDLE about 1/4" from any ground source). If you have spark there, do the same test with one of the plug wires. this will tell you if the PIP sensor, distributor wiring and TFI module are working.
I am assuming it cranks but won't turn over. The codes you mentioned shouldn't be cause to keep the truck from starting. And since you can't get it running, the KOER test is out of the question. Are you certain you are getting spark from the coil? Never hurts to shove a screwdriver into the coil wire and check for it while someone cranks the engine for you. (Be careful... hold the screwdriver BY THE HANDLE about 1/4" from any ground source). If you have spark there, do the same test with one of the plug wires. this will tell you if the PIP sensor, distributor wiring and TFI module are working.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,007
Likes: 5
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) sends the spark dependent upon the signal from the distributor.
Troubleshooting this one is a pain in the A. The distributor in my 1990 Bronco went out, but it was a gradual thing, it stopped working and then it would start working later, so I was thinking heat issues, finally it stopped all together with no spark, I changed the coil and still no spark, so then I tried Ignition Control Module (ICM) still no go, (that one was a pain in the A itself, freak size bolt head and deep)
I ended up rebuilding the distributor complete, I think the stator was the problem.
Try a rebuilt distributor, would be my suggestion.
and check the cooling system.
Troubleshooting this one is a pain in the A. The distributor in my 1990 Bronco went out, but it was a gradual thing, it stopped working and then it would start working later, so I was thinking heat issues, finally it stopped all together with no spark, I changed the coil and still no spark, so then I tried Ignition Control Module (ICM) still no go, (that one was a pain in the A itself, freak size bolt head and deep)
I ended up rebuilding the distributor complete, I think the stator was the problem.
Try a rebuilt distributor, would be my suggestion.
and check the cooling system.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor is probably the single most difficult (or at least contrived) sensor to troubleshoot. From the sound of things, this could well be the issue here. It is quicker to just replace it however it is not an inexpensive component. The PIP sensor is the ONLY failure point internal to the distributor short of an obviously damaged rotor or cap. No point in replacing the entire distributor if the PIP sensor can be replaced to solve the problem. The trigger for the PIP sensor is the excitor ring that is bolted immediately below the rotor. If you remove this ring you can see a series of "teeth". If these teeth get damaged or bent, they can cause physical damage to the PIP sensor. If you can eliminate other potential causes for the problem, I know the process for troubleshooting the PIP sensor. I can certainly post it or send it to you.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
Yes I would like to see the trouble shooting process. I have tried swapping the coil and the TFI from another truck with no luck. so I have a feeling the problem is at the distributer THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 2
From: The Vieux Ford, Kansas
What are your cap and rotor like? My brother drove his 95 5.8L till one day it wouldn't start. 189,000 miles on a cap and rotor and they get that bad. After wards he said it never ran so good. Check to see if you are getting spark at the coil and it just can't make it out of the distributor that how we pegged his problem.
-Johnboy
-Johnboy
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 0
From: Longview, TX
While you are at it, I suggest checking the grounds on the fender by the battery. The nuts may be tight, but the stud may be turning in the fender creating a bad or intermittent ground. One or both of the two small wires go to the ignition system. Mine was damaged when the battery cables were replaced and the pigtail ground wire over to the fender ground was reconnected.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dads79
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
May 18, 2017 09:59 PM
