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So far I have done everything wrong in the restoration of my rear leafs for my F250. I disassembled them, wire wheeled them with an angle grinder, primed them with self etching primer, then sanded them, then painted them gloss black, and they look purdy. I still have yet to reassemble them, but I need to soon so I can put the rear end back together. I was planning on getting the leaf spring liners and using them on there as well.
I guess I have already pissed away a lot of money and time redoing my rear leafs.
Sorry guy. Wire wheel is OK if you must as long as you use the edge and run it lengthwise. But PLEASE wear face shield and heavy shirt/gloves!
I was safe don't worry. It was a lot of work though. I wonder what I am supposed to do now? Also, I am trying to understand the coefficient of friction then b/w the individual leafs. I wire wheeled all of them and used self etching primer which filled a lot of the crevices, divots, etc, and then I sanded them smooth prior to painting them. So I am thinking there won't be any binding if not much at all b/w the leafs?
Also, didn't the Ford Factory or whoever supplied Ford with the leafs paint all of these leafs prior to assembly anyway? I am just figuring that they were painted to begin with, so why would it be bad now to strip prime and paint the leafs? Obviously suspension theory and design has come a long way, and if I could put Ohlins, Penske, or Billstein leafs and shocks on this truck I would. But come on, my truck is an original 3/4 ton stakebody, how smooth could it possibly ride.
Axman, I am not arguing with you above, I am just thinking out loud. So can I still use the polyliners from Mid-Fifty on my leafs considering I have painted them, or is that a complete waste to do now?
I did the same thing that you did Glock; painted them real nice and let them dry. I used the liner on them and the truck rides fine - before I put the shocks on, I pushed down on the rear of the truck and the springs worked as I thought they should. Now maybe I made a mistake, but I've been driving it for 7 years and I'm still pleased with the ride. Maybe I should take it apart and strip the paint and it would ride even better, whadaya think!?
Glock, did you use a catalized paint or a one part? Problem with paint is it's resistance to pressure yield. ever paint a shelf and put something heavy on it after it was completely dry, then find it stuck to the shelf and/or left an imprint when you went to move it some time later? Enamels are especially bad since they dry from solvent evaporation from the outside in, they form a pretty hard film on the surface pretty quickly but their heavy solvents underneath take a long time to migrate thru that film. That's why it's not recommended to rub out a one part enamel paint job for 6 months to a year after painting.
Go ahead and use the liners, just watch for paint wear where they rub. If it's wearing heavily (scraping thru) you may want to take them apart and remove the paint.
Leaf springs are not painted when new, they are left in the black oxide finish the heat treating produces.
I wanted to follow up on this with everyone since I am doing the F-250 instead of the F-100.
Well I tried several rear suspension parts from Mid-fifty and most of them don't fit, including the poly liners as they are for the more narrow F-100 leaf springs. So I get to send back a box of parts and make it work with the stock parts. Crap.
Also, I think I may have broken the pieces that hold the leafs inline. Where can I get replacement ones and does anybody have the part number for the F-250 kinds?
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