Went out last week and the only way to get the frig to cool was by nearly setting it to nearly max cold. The frig worked ok on a campout about 4weeks ago. This is a frig/freezer combo, with auto detecting for either LP gas or AC power. Oh, this problem happened while running on gas. At first i thought it was because the camper was not verly level but then checked it again after parking it at home and still the same, have to set to nearly max to get the frig cold.
I don't know anything how these frig's operate and don't know the first place to check. Guess i'll try it on the AC setting but can someone give me some more ideas?
Thanks

 

Are the seals around the doors still in good shape?
Sometimes these can go bad and not give you that airtight closure.
Just a thought

 

I had a problem with mine cooling when set on the max setting. Installed a two fans to cool the coils. Works great now on lower setting even at 90+ outside. The ice cream stays hard.

 

Also clean the dirt and dust and crud and corruption out of the back of the refer....Open the outside compartment and use the best vacuum you have to suck all the stuff outta there. Then use a damp rag to clean the cooling fins the best you can.

If it doesn't cool then, go see an expert.

 

thanks for the suggestions people.

 

It its a Dometic, you may want to visit their website as there is a recall on certain fridges. Follow the link: http://www.dometic.com/enus/Americas...l-Information/

 

You can also post this question in the technical section at http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...b/-/page/1.cfm
There are many RV tech's that give refrigerator advise, Good Luck.

 

If happening on gas only. Check the flame area for small critters. (spiders) which could reduce the gas to the flame area. Also check the burner and chimney for corrosion and clean area.

 

My thoughts were similar to bigred's...

I'd also check your propane supply to ensure you just aren't really low on propane if the spiders aren't the culprit...BTW...spiders LOVE to build nests inside these small tubes...your backyard grills are prone to this as well!

Cooling fans in the business end of the fridge (i.e. outside area) are also a good thing to add to help the exhaust stack 'vent' properly and reduce heat and increase cooling efficiency...

Good luck,
Joe.

 

The operation of the fridge is strange but it works... The tubes are full of a chemical.(sealed) It smells like pnumonia. OK so if you smell that, air the place out real good...When the chemical is heated, it starts to cool. (chemical reaction) If the unit isnt level.. the chemical wont flow, or cycle threw the tubes. The longer it is not level and not flowing the more chance for the chemical to crystalize in the tubes, and ultimatly block them.

The fridge isnt like a home style... No compressor so it doesnt cool all that well. With kids I reccomend a cooler for pop, milk, and anything else to keep the dorr from opening up all the time. That is why the milk is frozen in the morning.

Ther are 2 reasons for it to stop cooling. Bad heat source or clogged/ leaking tubes. Clogged/leaking tubes cannot be fixed, but they sell a replacment sealed system to replace your with, or new fridge of course which is expensive.

My advice is check your heat souce, Flame is usually the best souce, but either one work fine.

I hope this helps.

 

Mustang6147,

Thats a good description of how these fridges work, I have often wondered myself. I have heard, though, that the newer units like the one in my new 5th wheel don't need to be all that level to work properly. If that's the case, then what changed from what you were describing to how they work now?

Thanks

 

how about checking your battery's some of the fridges (the circuit boards) still need a 12volt signal to run)that happen to me once you sould look in to that. yea the gas will still run (and get hot ) but no workie

 

They have made the boiler section a little less prone to boiling dry if slightly out of level. But they still need to be level. Let's say you pull over onto the shoulder to change a flat tire; your rig is leaning to one side on most shoulders; you're ther for 30 minutes out of level towards the curb side, that's all it takes to start the degradation process. Even if you are stopped for a few minutes, which turn to half an hour, turn of the fridge.

 

To my knowledge, these fridges have not changed much at all, infact this type of fridge/freezer has been, and currently is used in many Amish homes. These units are not fragile by anymeens, but need to be level.

I camp, and have great success with many Dometic fridges.The one I had was replaced in Texas in 1984. I sold the trailer last year, and it worked fine. To maintain it, after camping, I empty the fridge, leave the doors open to dry it out. I leave the doors open all winter, infact the only time I close them is when the cooling unit is on. I use a product called Rust Converter on any rust on the coils in the back.

As far as level??? this is debated as are so many things. When I am camping I do level it. When I turn it on in my drivway before loading the trailer, it is level. Going down the road it doesnt matter because it is bouncing/ rocking and moving around. But parking it say I stop for lunch, or fuel, or restroom and stretch my legs or sight seeing? I simply park it level, or as close to as my eye can see. Overnight? its level an hour or so. get it close. That is how I have always done it, and it works for me. Dont know if it is politicaly correct though. ??

 

Generally, if it is comfortably level to sleep in, the newer units will operate ok. Still best to have it near level as possible. Dometic has a problem with many of their coils corroding and letting the refrigerant out--lots of talk about this on the rv forums. The fridge HAS to have good 12 volt power to run it--even when plugged in to house power, the fridge still has to have 12 volt power for the controls. Many of the units have a thermistor on the fridge section fins--the higher the thermister is on the fin, the colder the fridge section should be.
Joe